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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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'92 pickup front bumper build
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 8,372
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Search for how to convert your corner marker lights into turn signals by modifying them to accept a dual filament bulb.
Any reason why the bolts are all caddywhampus?
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Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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um...
. Mostly just because I wasn't real careful. They won't be showing when it is all finished anyway.
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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today's progress
So, I got a little more done today. Got my center piece welded together. I put a couple of supports on it and welded it to my mounting bracket. A couple of shots:
I need to add a few more supports. When it is time to add a winch, I'll just cut a hole in the top and drop it into the center section. Plus a hole in the front for the fairlead. More to come soon...
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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a little more...
So, I got a bit more done today. Put a couple more supports on the main bumper:
then I added the lower angle iron: and a couple more supports: Now I'm not sure where to go next. Originally I had planned to just put a plate from the main center piece down to the angle iron, which is why the angle iron is tilted like that. However, I'm starting to like all my pipework. So, my other option is to just do five pipes from the angle iron up to the bottom of my center section near the front. I would then leave it open so all the pipework would be visible. Any ideas or suggestions? I imagine both would be strong enough, but open would allow more airflow to the radiator - would it make a noticeable difference though?
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 8,372
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Are you trying to make it look like it has teeth?
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Check out www.coTTORA.org to hook up with great Toyota 'wheelin' folks! Current - 93 4Runner: 3VZ 33"x10.50" no lift ARB F/R 96 Impala SS: My own personal cop car Previous - 89 2WD Pickup 22R, Fabtech "Ivan Dan" lift, 31x10.50, IASCA World Finals 4th Place Stop with the mods and get on the trail! Pix at www.4wheelingoh.shutterfly.com/action |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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I wasn't planning on the teeth look. The original plan was to plate over the front, but all the pipe is starting to appeal to me...
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,450
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interesting design.....
How does the winch go in again?
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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The idea is this, using this section
I'll just chop a hole in the top and back of it. Then, the winch sits on the bottom of that 4x6 section. A hole will need to be cut for the fairlead, and I'll have to trim the grill some, but I think it'll fit. I'll probably have to go with a more compact winch. The smittybilt xrc8 might fit. It'll probably be a year or two until I can afford a winch. I'm on a tight budget right now (this whole project has taken me $35 - material plus $30 - grinder.) It's also kind of a learning project for me. I haven't done any welding since high school metal shop. I'm having fun though, and all in all I'm pleased with how it is turning out.
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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interesting build
keep up the pix I'm collecting ideas for the front bumper on the GF's runner
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1993 Toyota 4-Runner v6 3.0 SR5 4x4 (My girlfriend's) 2004 Toyota Tacoma v6 SR5 X-Cab 4x4 (My Truck) Old Truck: Stolen and ravaged :( boy do i miss her.. 1987 Toyota 4x4 (IFS) Standard Cab Pickup 22r: cam/distributor/weber 38/offenhouser c series intake, 4 inch suspension lift, 32's, 4:88's, all the fun stuff :( |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,450
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Quote:
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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Quote:
, but I like to think it will . The 4x4 part is .25 wall. the 2x4 is .120 wall. The 2x4 has 4 supports going down to the crossmember as you can see. The 4x4 will have either 5 supports down to the angle iron, or just .25 plate. I haven't decided yet. So, as far as strength goes, I think it should be okay. I'm most worried about my crossmember mount failing. Should I tie into where the stock tow hooks mount?As for the winch fitting... If I cut into (or remove) my grill, I have about 10" from the front of the bumper until I run into the radiator. I'm thinking that would work. Especially if I use a winch like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-...spagenameZWDVW According to the overall dimensions that are listed, it should fit. But, just because it should, doesn't mean it will. Like I said though, it will be awhile until I get a winch.
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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I got a bit done yesterday. My gas ran out as soon as I started though, so I lost some time getting a new tank.
Anyway, started with this on the side: and I cut it down to this: I did this so I could get a support from the side of the bumper directly to the stock bumper mount. I then started putting one side together: I got this much done on the other side as well. More to come soon
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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Help!
So, I ran into a new problem today, but first my progress so far.
Here is the other side put together: I decided to tie the sides into the stock frame mounting location. Here's how I did that: I got that done on both sides today, and then decided if I really want this to withstand winching loads in the future, I'll need to tie it directly into the frame, not just onto the front crossmember. So I decided to pull the stock tow hooks, and run a piece of 5/16" by 2" bar along the bottom of the frame rail. The rail has 3 holes that are drilled and tapped, ready to accept bolts. 2 at the stock tow hook mounting locations, and one about 5 inches further back. I think bolting into these should create a pretty strong mount. This is where I ran into trouble: I started pulling the stock tow hooks, and got 3 bolts out okay, but I broke the head off on the fourth... So, any ideas on the best way to get that out? It is in there really tight. Worst case scenario, I just chop the bolt off flush, and only mount the driver's side with 2 bolts, but I'd really like to get it out. Any help would be appreciated.
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Salem,Oregon
Posts: 508
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Maybe center punch and drill a good size relief hole down the center of it. Then I would probably get a good size nut to place over the stud there and weld the inside of the nut to the stud creating a new bolt essentially. Be sure to clean the stud up before you weld to it. after you get the nut welded on you could try and further heat the area up with a torch before wrenching on it. Best of luck to you.
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1990 Xcab beast of burden 3.0 Rebuild/Precision balanced w/OS valves Custom ported/welded Intake manifolds Downey headers, Jacobs Ign 4" Trail Gear SAS + rear Kit R151 + Dual cases (2.28+4.7) 5.29's,Tru Trac/Lockright on 35 BFG's 140A GM CS144 alt/Hyd assist steering DOA Racing = $1200 lesson in who NOT to deal with |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sacramento area, Ca
Posts: 348
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Quote:
And just my two cents: Your bumper looks great!!! but I don't think its probably strong enough for a winch. Sorry Good Luck!
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'85 Standard Cab 4.5" HD SuperLift Custom Winch bumper 33x12.50 Mud Rovers Lincoln Locked in the rear; running 5.29s DD's: '87 XJ and '91 Suzuki DR650s Wheel Responsibly, Don't screw it up for the rest of Us. . . ---------------------------------------------------- "Obama is an acronym. OBAMA = One Big Ass Mistake, America" - Thanks for the Quote Hayes |
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#17 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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Quote:
Quote:
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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Okay, it has been a few days since I posted on this. I have done a little work though. When I left off I was stuck with my broken bolt. So I went and got a set of easy outs and gave that a try. Here is the result:
yep, it broke off. So now I have a bolt stuck in there, with the tip of an easy out stuck in it too. My next trick was to screw a nut on, weld it in place and then try to wrench the bolt out. That resulted in this: The rest of the bolt broke off. I ended up just cutting off the remainder of the bolt and grinding it smooth. Not what I wanted to do, but I still have a couple tapped holes to bolt into the frame. It will just have to do... So, I added my supports that run along the bottom of the frame. They are 5/16" inches thick and bolt into the factory tapped holes in the frame. I notched the angle iron so I could get a good fit. Then I added a couple of vertical supports, going from the 5/16" piece I just added up to the main center section of the bumper. And I pulled it off to finish some of my welds and put the rest together. I've decided to do bars on front instead of plating the front. The main reason for this is money. I have a cheap metal supplier, but he doesn't have much selection when it comes to plating. However, I do already have enough roundstock to finish it. I also like the look of the bars. A little different from the norm, but I like it. So here's what is left to do: 1. Add the angle iron that goes from the bottom angle up to the side 2. Add the bars(3 more in the center and 3 on each side) 3. Box in my open 2x4's 4. add a plate gusset to fill in the gap behind my side 2x4's After that I can think about extras I might want to add, such as recessed fog lights and a couple of D-rings(anyone know of a cheap source for these)? Then it is on to painting.
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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A little more progress to report.
First off, I did the corner turn signal mod found here: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/corner-tu...0701602:bigok: That was pretty easy and went very smoothly. Then I finished several of the welds while I had it on the ground. I also added a couple of the pieces on the side. This is how it currently sits: One question though: When I close off the ends of the 2x4's, should I worry about moisture getting in and rusting it from the inside out? It should be hard for water to get in, but I'm sure my welds aren't 100% airtight. Do I need to worry about it at all? Any response would be appreciated.
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ft. Bragg, NC
Posts: 1
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Looks good!
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The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing!
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#21 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: St. Loser, Misery
Posts: 2,450
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Quote:
I would make it airtight. Many people tap for a fitting and use the bumper to hold air. If you dont make it airtight the first time you submerge the bumper it will fill up with water
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Low down and durrrrrrrty Rock stacking Web Wheeler. Locked, lifted, trussed, SASsed, triangulated, dual cased, shaved, armored, gusseted, hydro'd, blacked out, crapped out, mashed up, merderrrrrd out and ready to hit the mall! It's a Jaap thing....You wouldnt understand |
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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thanks man!
Quote:
1. Does it hold enough air to be worth it? My bumper has about 80" of 2x4 and 30" of 4x4. That is about 1120 cubic inches (maybe 100 - 200 inches less. My calculations ignore wall thickness.) So, multiply by 0.00432900433 to find gallons and it is 4.84 gallons. hmmm, more than I thought... Maybe it would be worth it. 2. Okay next question: What happens if my bumper is full of compressed air and I get in an accident and it ruptures. I'm thinking maybe okay because it only has a couple hundred PSI? Not sure here, let me know. 3. How hard is it to get my welds airtight? I've never actually tested my welds for air-tightness. If it looks good then it usually is sort of thing? Just compression test before paint? 4. If I decide not to go the airtight route, could I just drill a few holes in the bottom to allow for drainage? Would that mean I'd have to paint the inside too to stop rust? 5. If I do go airtight, any sort of treatment required on the inside to stop rust? Okay, this post ended up a little longer than intended. Anyway, help please!
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 98
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A little bit more done yesterday:
Any help with my questions in the previous post? Anybody?
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'92 pickup, xtra cab, manual 3.0, 4x4, 31x10.5 |
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#24 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Waterloo, Ia
Posts: 298
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Quote:
I too would like some info on this.
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#25 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sacramento area, Ca
Posts: 348
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That looks great! Just out of curiosity, how much does it weigh? I know mine is much heavier than I'd ever wanted. But it has to be. lol
As for "plating" the front of you bumper. Can't you get some sheet metal? like 14-16 gauge? That would look decent and be strong enough for the skin over the frame you've already built. But if you like the toothed look, keep it that way. That's the great part about building your own. You can do it how you want. ![]() As far as being air tight. Yes, I believe as long as your welds are continuous and over lap enough and have proper penetration, then it should be sealed. Maybe not enough to be used as an air tank, but still sealed. I've contemplated the air tank idea for my roll bar and my rear bumper, but I'm not sure I trust someone elses welds on them enough and don't figure I would create enough volume to be worth while. But you have to remember that a SCUBA tank in only maybe 30-36 inches tall and 8inches in diameter, but because it is compress to 3000-4000 psi, it holds up to 80+ cubic feet of gas. So your 7.7 cubic foot bumper could hold maybe twice that? at 120 psi (which is where most compresses stop). I'm not sure about that exact physics of it. About the bumper exploding or being ruptured in a collision, that is a possibility that I've considered and don't like the idea of! I'm afraid of that and would suggest, if you do go the "air tank" route, don't running it on the road with more than a few psi in it. Even if you don't run it as an air tank, you can tap it and put an air filler on. By doing so, you can pressurize it to maybe 10 psi and it'll never get moisture inside, assuming it doesn't leak down and you keep it slightly pressurized. And you asked about it being strong enough for a winch? You'll have to determine that for yourself. Maybe compare your attachment points to an ARB and talk to someone that has built a winch bumper. I like how you've included to plate that comes out along the bottom of the frame. That'll add a lot of strength to your build. I guess I'm still kind of hesitant about the thickness of the tubing you used for where the winch cut out would be. If you use a bottom mount winch, then your probably fine. Mine is a face mount, so I needed more to re-enforce it and tie it into the bumper. A bottom mount doesn't need as much. Due to the way it mounts. Also, on painting your bumper, that will actually do a little to help seal it too. But if you get it powder coated, it'll seal pretty well. However, I know that powder coating is expensive. And that's why I haven't gotten my roll bar done yet. I would highly suggest adding D-rings, maybe on the lower bar? I"m frustrated that I haven't gotten them on mine yet, but I have a receiver on the front. So I have a good attachment point! ![]() Sorry, I don't intend to be so long winded! I promise. Good Luck with it and keep us posted on your progress! Grant
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'85 Standard Cab 4.5" HD SuperLift Custom Winch bumper 33x12.50 Mud Rovers Lincoln Locked in the rear; running 5.29s DD's: '87 XJ and '91 Suzuki DR650s Wheel Responsibly, Don't screw it up for the rest of Us. . . ---------------------------------------------------- "Obama is an acronym. OBAMA = One Big Ass Mistake, America" - Thanks for the Quote Hayes |
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