U-Joint Replacement

wormhole · 08-02-2008, 06:51 PM

Took my 4runner in for the who "knows how many time" for a clunking type noise when braking, letting off the break and/or letting off the gas after accelerating (took it into the Toyota dealer, in Avondale)and it was determined that the u-joints are going bad.

So what is in involved in replacing the u-joints? I've been looking though the repair and it seems that if you don't align everything back up right the balance of the driveshaft can be thrown off and what is a double cardan type u-joint? Does that apply to the 4runners.

Sorry, if this seems kind of random. I still trying to learn how to work on 4runner besides doing the basic stuff.

sschaefer3 · 08-04-2008, 06:02 PM

You need special tools. I would find a drive shaft shop or use the dealer.

wormhole · 08-04-2008, 06:29 PM

Do you gus have any recommendations on where to take it. The guys over on ttora recommend toyboxauto but they aren't open on Saturdays. Big-O tire in Goodyear said they can do it or I can go to the stealership but I'm still looking for recommendations.

I'm in Phoenix this weekend picking my mtn. bike back up and I'm looking to get this done.

Steve - What type of special tool ???

RobD · 08-04-2008, 07:21 PM

You don't need any special tools. What you need to do is mark your drive shaft flanges so they meet back up with the right spot (make a mark on the U-joint where it meets your transmission flange and one where it meets your rear pinion flange). Drop the shaft by removing the 4 bolts at each end. Remove the C-clips at each U-joint. Spray the U-joint bearing cups with penetrating oil. With a BFH (big freakin' hammer) and a slug (I used an old socket) and a 2x4 to place the axle on or a press, bash or press the livin' bejeepers out of the U-joint bearing races. Once out, press the new ones back in. All in all, I did mine in about an hour and only ruined the socket.

A better write-up might be found here:

http://www.automedia.com/U-Joint_Rep...cr20050301uj/1

My shop manual said to use a vise and just press them out, but we were talking 17 year old U-joints that refused to budge an inch. Try pressing first, using a vise or a press. Failing that, beat the crap out of them with a BFH. Just don't hit the yokes.

This is another decent article, even if it's for Jeeps:

http://www.jeepin.com/features/ujoint/

RobD · 08-04-2008, 07:24 PM

Forgot to answer your double Cardan joint. That's basically two U-joints that are on your front driveshaft. It's unlikely that these are your culprit, unless you've been driving everywhere in 4 wheel drive.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...oft:*%26sa%3DN

wormhole · 08-04-2008, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobD

This is another decent article, even if it's for Jeeps:

http://www.jeepin.com/features/ujoint/

RobD · 08-04-2008, 11:54 PM

The process on Jeep site is roughly the same as for any U-joint.

I was just making fun of Jeeps. Oh, never mind.

sschaefer3 · 08-05-2008, 06:37 AM

3rd Gen 4Runner has double Cardan joint on the rear shaft and single u-joints on the front. Reverse of the 86-95 Trucks/4Runners.

RobD · 08-05-2008, 12:17 PM

Missed that part in his signature line.

That said, it shouldn't be much harder than replacing a normal U-joint. Be careful to replace the ball that's between the two joints.

http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/

From a Bronco site.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/doublecardan.php

And from here, though it's a bit thin on advice: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/driveshaf...er-buy-125566/

Ryan · 08-05-2008, 08:41 PM

Good Info here, Learning experience

RobD · 08-05-2008, 08:58 PM

I had never done one until last year. Did some research on here, bought a couple new U-joints, a bigger freakin' hammer, and held my breath. Beat the livin' snot out of those things, then gave up and used a grinder with a cut off wheel to finish them off. Mine were the originals, though, and had 200000 miles on them, so they were somewhat reluctant to give up their places.

Been a year since and no issues.

111db · 08-05-2008, 10:23 PM

T - they're easy to do with the right tools. A cinch with a press. I did them all the time about 15 years ago when I worked at an auto parts store. I think we charged $10 each or so. Check around, maybe a parts place will do it for you. If you can get a ride, you can drop the driveshaft out and just take it in with you. It would help to soak them down a couple days in advance with PB Blaster.

RobD · 08-05-2008, 11:03 PM

x2 on the PB Blaster.

wormhole · 08-06-2008, 10:34 PM

Thanks. For the replies guys

. I think for the time being I'll be taking it to the stealership to have the work done (7am Saturday @ Avondale Toyota).

Being in an apartment I don't have access to the tools (press/BFH, plus the complex doesn't like us working on vehicles to much) and working 12 to 13 hr days. kind of makes it hard to do things during the week. The autoparts store u-joints are a lot cheaper but I've gotten recommendations from others to stay with OEM parts.

In the future I'll be doing this work myself at least what I can do. Hopefully, next year when I move up to the Phoenix things will change a bit. I hope.

Anything going on this weekend. Wouldn't mind doing an easy trail after the work is done. Might as well since I'm already there.

westy44runner · 08-07-2008, 08:14 AM

Definitely use the Toyota factory U-joints. Probably too late now, but in the future you can buy them online at dealers for quite a bit less than locally.

wormhole · 08-09-2008, 05:55 PM

Fixed. Avondale Toyota

The place that cleaned my 4runner after

(the ******* stole crap out of 4runner).

08-02-2008, 06:51 PM	#1 (permalink)
wormhole Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Missouri/Arkansas/Idaho/Utah/Yuma, Arizona Posts: 1,205	U-Joint Replacement Took my 4runner in for the who "knows how many time" for a clunking type noise when braking, letting off the break and/or letting off the gas after accelerating (took it into the Toyota dealer, in Avondale)and it was determined that the u-joints are going bad. So what is in involved in replacing the u-joints? I've been looking though the repair and it seems that if you don't align everything back up right the balance of the driveshaft can be thrown off and what is a double cardan type u-joint? Does that apply to the 4runners. Sorry, if this seems kind of random. I still trying to learn how to work on 4runner besides doing the basic stuff. __________________ 2000 Toyota 4runner auto, 4x4, elocker, budbuilt skid, Sonoran Steel 7.2, 265/75/16 Yokohoma Geolanders AT-S Just call me "T" Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle Last edited by wormhole : 08-02-2008 at 06:57 PM.

08-04-2008, 06:02 PM	#2 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,467	You need special tools. I would find a drive shaft shop or use the dealer. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

08-04-2008, 06:29 PM	#3 (permalink)
wormhole Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Missouri/Arkansas/Idaho/Utah/Yuma, Arizona Posts: 1,205	Do you gus have any recommendations on where to take it. The guys over on ttora recommend toyboxauto but they aren't open on Saturdays. Big-O tire in Goodyear said they can do it or I can go to the stealership but I'm still looking for recommendations. I'm in Phoenix this weekend picking my mtn. bike back up and I'm looking to get this done. Steve - What type of special tool ??? __________________ 2000 Toyota 4runner auto, 4x4, elocker, budbuilt skid, Sonoran Steel 7.2, 265/75/16 Yokohoma Geolanders AT-S Just call me "T" Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle

08-04-2008, 07:21 PM	#4 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,087	You don't need any special tools. What you need to do is mark your drive shaft flanges so they meet back up with the right spot (make a mark on the U-joint where it meets your transmission flange and one where it meets your rear pinion flange). Drop the shaft by removing the 4 bolts at each end. Remove the C-clips at each U-joint. Spray the U-joint bearing cups with penetrating oil. With a BFH (big freakin' hammer) and a slug (I used an old socket) and a 2x4 to place the axle on or a press, bash or press the livin' bejeepers out of the U-joint bearing races. Once out, press the new ones back in. All in all, I did mine in about an hour and only ruined the socket. A better write-up might be found here: http://www.automedia.com/U-Joint_Rep...cr20050301uj/1 My shop manual said to use a vise and just press them out, but we were talking 17 year old U-joints that refused to budge an inch. Try pressing first, using a vise or a press. Failing that, beat the crap out of them with a BFH. Just don't hit the yokes. This is another decent article, even if it's for Jeeps: http://www.jeepin.com/features/ujoint/ __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

08-04-2008, 07:24 PM	#5 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,087	Forgot to answer your double Cardan joint. That's basically two U-joints that are on your front driveshaft. It's unlikely that these are your culprit, unless you've been driving everywhere in 4 wheel drive. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...oft:*%26sa%3DN __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

08-04-2008, 11:54 PM	#7 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,087	The process on Jeep site is roughly the same as for any U-joint. I was just making fun of Jeeps. Oh, never mind. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

08-05-2008, 06:37 AM	#8 (permalink)
sschaefer3 Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Tempe, Arizona Posts: 5,467	3rd Gen 4Runner has double Cardan joint on the rear shaft and single u-joints on the front. Reverse of the 86-95 Trucks/4Runners. __________________ Steve Schaefer *WWW.SonoranSteel.Com* Suspension Lift Kits * Rock Sliders * Straight Axle Conversions * 4Runner/FJC Rubicon Express Lower Links * Accessories * Daystar Products Dealer * TJM Bull Bar Dealer * Deaver Leaf Spring Dealer * Tokico & Bilstein Shock Dealer * ViAir Dealer * Total Chaos Dealer * and like everyone else a Trail Gear Dealer

08-05-2008, 12:17 PM	#9 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,087	Missed that part in his signature line. That said, it shouldn't be much harder than replacing a normal U-joint. Be careful to replace the ball that's between the two joints. http://www.rblewis.net/personal/bronco/driveshaft/ From a Bronco site. http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/doublecardan.php And from here, though it's a bit thin on advice: http://www.yotatech.com/f2/driveshaf...er-buy-125566/ __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

08-05-2008, 08:41 PM	#10 (permalink)
Ryan Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Phoenix Posts: 122	Good Info here, Learning experience __________________ 1986 4Runner SR5, Stock 22RE w/5speed, Rear Detroit Locker, Front LSD, 4:88 Gears, 4" Lift, New Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ 33X12.50X15 Tires on the way. Mtn Bike For Sale: http://www.yotatech.com/f110/cannond.../#post50888473

08-05-2008, 08:58 PM	#11 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,087	I had never done one until last year. Did some research on here, bought a couple new U-joints, a bigger freakin' hammer, and held my breath. Beat the livin' snot out of those things, then gave up and used a grinder with a cut off wheel to finish them off. Mine were the originals, though, and had 200000 miles on them, so they were somewhat reluctant to give up their places. Been a year since and no issues. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

08-05-2008, 10:23 PM	#12 (permalink)
111db Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 1,196	T - they're easy to do with the right tools. A cinch with a press. I did them all the time about 15 years ago when I worked at an auto parts store. I think we charged $10 each or so. Check around, maybe a parts place will do it for you. If you can get a ride, you can drop the driveshaft out and just take it in with you. It would help to soak them down a couple days in advance with PB Blaster. __________________ Jon *97 4Runner 3.4 4.88's * ARB Lockers F/R * ARB compressor * Sonoran Steel numba 1 * 285 BFG AT/KO * TJM 17 * BudBuilt Skids * Stubbs Sliders & BBQ sauce * Irbis out back * Various Electronic Gadgets**

08-05-2008, 11:03 PM	#13 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,087	x2 on the PB Blaster. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

08-06-2008, 10:34 PM	#14 (permalink)
wormhole Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Missouri/Arkansas/Idaho/Utah/Yuma, Arizona Posts: 1,205	Thanks. For the replies guys . I think for the time being I'll be taking it to the stealership to have the work done (7am Saturday @ Avondale Toyota). Being in an apartment I don't have access to the tools (press/BFH, plus the complex doesn't like us working on vehicles to much) and working 12 to 13 hr days. kind of makes it hard to do things during the week. The autoparts store u-joints are a lot cheaper but I've gotten recommendations from others to stay with OEM parts. In the future I'll be doing this work myself at least what I can do. Hopefully, next year when I move up to the Phoenix things will change a bit. I hope. Anything going on this weekend. Wouldn't mind doing an easy trail after the work is done. Might as well since I'm already there. __________________ 2000 Toyota 4runner auto, 4x4, elocker, budbuilt skid, Sonoran Steel 7.2, 265/75/16 Yokohoma Geolanders AT-S Just call me "T" Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle Last edited by wormhole : 08-06-2008 at 10:49 PM.

08-07-2008, 08:14 AM	#15 (permalink)
westy44runner Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Arizona Posts: 884	Definitely use the Toyota factory U-joints. Probably too late now, but in the future you can buy them online at dealers for quite a bit less than locally. __________________ '86 Toy Flatbed with a few modifications

08-09-2008, 05:55 PM	#16 (permalink)
wormhole Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Missouri/Arkansas/Idaho/Utah/Yuma, Arizona Posts: 1,205	Fixed. Avondale Toyota The place that cleaned my 4runner after (the ******* stole crap out of 4runner). __________________ 2000 Toyota 4runner auto, 4x4, elocker, budbuilt skid, Sonoran Steel 7.2, 265/75/16 Yokohoma Geolanders AT-S Just call me "T" Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle

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