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Old 03-08-2008, 12:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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That doesn't look right.......

Well, I found a nice little surpise under my 4runner while trying to see how my belly skid was going to mount up.

Caught this out of the corner of my eye:




The boot isn't torn but the metal ring at the end of the boot is lose and just sitting there (as seen in the picture). Any idea's?
How bad is it to drive with it like that, it's my only means of transportation. Got a quote from Pep Boys for $500 and Big O can't tell me until Monday (have to bring it in for them to look at it.) The stealersip parts/serivce department closes at noon.
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Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle

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Old 03-08-2008, 12:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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not hurtin anything. If you don't have manual hubs, you should get it changed within a month. Hose clamp it if you have to get by. Stay out of deep water obviously. Axle should be around $70 w/core. not hard to change 1-2 hrs
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Old 03-08-2008, 03:23 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If it just the clamp, get a new clamp and put it on to stop the grease from leaking. I dont recall but if you can just dump some grease back in you should be fine, as many have had to replace the boots and the kit comes with the grease needed.
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Old 03-08-2008, 08:02 PM   #4 (permalink)
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What's a good site/place to order a new CV Boot??
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Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle
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Old 03-08-2008, 08:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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What's a good site/place to order a new CV Boot??
I've been getting stuff recently from Rock Auto http://www.rockauto.com/
Prices are good. Quality has been excellent and all orders have been correct and promptly shipped. I also have a 5% discount code you can use til 3/11 if you want. Otherwise you should be able to get this stuff locally at NAPA or Checker etc.

Here is the poop from my email for the discount:

Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you.

Your discount code is:

891270791065

Here's how to use it:

* Enter your code in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart.
* If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Set" button to the right of the field.
* Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total.

**NOTE: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word "discount" in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers.**

The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices, and there's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks.

This discount code expires on March 11, 2008; so don't wait!
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:32 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I've gone though them a few times (just order another sway bar end link from them). What confuses me is that they list inner and outer cv boots and I'm not sure which one to order or what the difference is.
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Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i dont no if there is a difference but judging from your pic its the outer!
oh and is the boot ripped? if not i would just regrease hoseclamp it and call it good!
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:00 PM   #8 (permalink)
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The outer is by the wheel. The inner is by the diff. They are a little different in size. In your pic it is the outer that has failed. Here is a pic of one on e bay. It is NOT the one for your truck but the general idea is the same. In the pic the left side is the inner and the right side the outer. You can see that the two accordian-like boots are a little different in size.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...spagenameZWDVW

For 7-8 bucks each you might want to just get all 4 as the shipping will probably not be any more (maybe a buck). Also someone chime in here but you might need a special tool for those clamps (I've never actually had the pleasure) but I'll also bet one of us has one.
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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From the pic it looks like the outer, the boot closer to the wheel.

Checker has lifetime warranty complete brand new CV shafts for $99. I've been runnning one for about a year now and about 6 months I installed the ARB locker... so far so good. Its good to have a spare shaft, you can swap in a new shaft and then rebuild the old one.

[edit]But... you'll probably be fine with just a clamp for now. Those boots get old and brittle and are prone to cracking eventually. Just be aware of it and check them occasionally.
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:05 PM   #10 (permalink)
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i dont no if there is a difference but judging from your pic its the outer!
oh and is the boot ripped? if not i would just regrease hoseclamp it and call it good!
The boot isn't ripped it's the clamp itself from what I can tell. The other thing is I've never regrease something like this before and have no clue on how to (read repair manual). More or less I'll just have someone do it for me (65 hr (at the moment weeks kind of put's a damper on things).
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Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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From the pic it looks like the outer, the boot closer to the wheel.

Checker has lifetime warranty complete brand new CV shafts for $99. I've been runnning one for about a year now and about 6 months I installed the ARB locker... so far so good. Its good to have a spare shaft, you can swap in a new shaft and then rebuild the old one.

[edit]But... you'll probably be fine with just a clamp for now. Those boots get old and brittle and are prone to cracking eventually. Just be aware of it and check them occasionally.

I'll look into that. I want to get this fixed asap. Don't want to drive around with it like that. I'll either be going to pep boys (normally better prices than Big O) or the stealership to have it done since I have no experience with something like this and knowin g my luck I'll screw something up like normal.

I've toyed with the idea of picking up a spare cv joint.
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Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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T, just get a 2"-3" hose clamp at an auto parts store for like $1. Slide the old clamp out of the way (it wont hurt anything hanging there) and install the new clamp with a screwdriver. That will hold you over for quite a while.
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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well to tell you the truth, i would just clean it up and hose clamp it, but thats me. you should just tell your mechanic that you just need some grease in there and fix that clamp.
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:12 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 111db View Post
From the pic it looks like the outer, the boot closer to the wheel.

Checker has lifetime warranty complete brand new CV shafts for $99. I've been runnning one for about a year now and about 6 months I installed the ARB locker... so far so good. Its good to have a spare shaft, you can swap in a new shaft and then rebuild the old one.

[edit]But... you'll probably be fine with just a clamp for now. Those boots get old and brittle and are prone to cracking eventually. Just be aware of it and check them occasionally.
Good point. It's probably just as easy (or easier) to replace the whole axle. Then you can re build the old one on the bench in your own sweet time and have a trail spare. And it will happen...sooner or later. Jon, is there a core charge do you remember?
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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dooood, "if its not broke then dont fix it"
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
dooood, "if its not broke then dont fix it"
haha thats true... but you could really go either way in this situation. I would base my decision on money/time.

Mike - no core charge on a new one. Only on remans... and the weird thing was the remans were like $20 more plus a core charge on top of that.
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Old 03-09-2008, 07:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Mike - no core charge on a new one. Only on remans... and the weird thing was the remans were like $20 more plus a core charge on top of that.
Yeah, I checked that out after I posted. Kinda odd.
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Old 03-09-2008, 01:51 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Went ahead and put a clamp on it for the time being.

Order both the inner and outer boot fiqured might as well replace them at the same time.
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Sold: 1996 Toyota 4runner, auto, 4x4, Bud Built front skid, Stubb Welding Sliders, SS #3, hella 500's and elocked rear axle

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Old 03-12-2008, 05:35 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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dooood, "if its not broke then dont fix it"


excatly what i did. ive been running with ripped inner boots for the past few months. haha. and im sure the outters have holes in them too. still running strong...
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Old 03-12-2008, 05:56 PM   #20 (permalink)
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just noticed my driver side outer cv is torn, but the grease is so thinck in there, and i dumped more in just to be safe, i think ill be ok for a while.
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