Climbing Mount McKinley in 2005 - Page 3

kmcc78240 · 03-27-2007, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Teotwaki

Denali Pass in the background.

Will we summit or will we head back down into the approaching storm?

Climb that (Denali Pass) then take a the right then to the the summit? Of course that is easier typed then done. That looks really steep.

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Paul H. · 03-27-2007, 02:16 PM

Ok and now for the rest of the story. pretty please.

Teotwaki · 03-27-2007, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmcc78240

Now we lost the Thumb Rock,
crazy pics by the way, (in a good way) The last two is that where you were coming from?

try doing a right click and getting the photo link properties and going direct. I can still see them right now.

Some photos are out of sequence (climbing up or down) because they might be all that I have to illustrate a point on the route.

Teotwaki · 03-27-2007, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuphoricKaty80

Those are some beautiful pics!!!!! Man what i wouldnt do to be able to see that first hand!

You can do it in the future! I climbed it at 52 years old.

kmcc78240 · 03-27-2007, 02:28 PM

Yeah they are up now. very cool. Now back to the story. Pretty Please

Swank · 03-27-2007, 02:29 PM

What does an expedition cost per person (approx)?

Teotwaki · 03-27-2007, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Swank

What does an expedition cost per person (approx)?

It really depends if you are starting from zero or not and if you do-it-yourself or pay a guide service. Also some folks talk other folks into sponsoring their teams.

A guide service might charge $5k to $6k for the service, extra for gear rental. buying all that gear shiny new gear could be another $4000. Then you'll have to get yourself to Alaska, meals, hotels, shuttle into Talkeetna, climbing permit and air taxi too.

here is a typical site for guide services:
http://www.climbalaska.org/denali-westbutt.html

I think I spent less than $2000 total, maybe half of that for travel& fees and half for new gear: $500 -40 degree sleeping bag ($300 EBay), $500 killer down jacket ($300 sale), new boot liners and some other stuff.

Teotwaki · 03-27-2007, 03:33 PM

May 19th

My watch alarm went off and my tent mate Andy stuck his head outside for a look. He starts excitedly yelling "We're going UP!" because we had perfect weather; cloudless and windless.

It seemed to take forever to get ready. I was wearing all of my layers:

Thin thermal underwear tops and bottoms
Sock liners, synthetic hiking socks and heavy expedition socks
Expedition plastic boots with custom fitted liners (similar to ski boots)
Expedition insulated overboots
Expedition Goretex gaiters
100 weight fleece tops and bottoms
Breathable softhell pants and jacket
Synthetic insulated pants
Goretex outer pants
Synthetic hooded jacket
800 fill Down expedition jacket
Two fleece balaclavas, one using Gore windstopper to keep out high winds
Thin glove liners
Gore windstopper fleece gloves
Expedition down mittens
Custom extra-dark wraparound sunglasses (with blue nose protector!)

Then crampons, climbing harness, a small summit pack with emergency gear and climbing gear; ice axe, pickets, carabiners etc.

We roped up and.........

Moving steadily up the hill, it is literally take a step and then 3 hard breaths.

heading across towards the Arch Deacon's Tower and the "football field". The summit is in the near distance

After crossing the field we'll climb Pig hill and then start across the summit ridge.

Teotwaki · 03-27-2007, 03:40 PM

The pictures say it all....

Andy on top, pimping for friends who gave him free gear

Father and son, Jimmy and Kerisi

And the Old Man of the group at 20,320' high on a perfect day

SteveO · 03-27-2007, 03:43 PM

Super Cool!

EuphoricKaty80 · 03-27-2007, 03:55 PM

that is amazing...the world must look so small from that high up...i cant imagine the feeling!

Mason Dixon · 03-27-2007, 04:37 PM

if you had skis, could you've skid down this part to get down faster?

Teotwaki · 03-27-2007, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mason Dixon

if you had skis, could you've skid down this part to get down faster?

Would take way too much effort to haul skis up there for the short distance you might use them. You also run the risk of losing control and falling to your death in some areas. I don't think I could have done it at that altititude anyhow!

From 14K down you could ski quite a bit on cross-country skis and we had friends who did. It is hard with a sled and if there is ice or crevasses.

The absolute best place is the long slog from 7800' back to the 7200' base camp / airport. Our friends whupped our butts in that stretch and beat us back by quite a large margin.

Teotwaki · 03-27-2007, 08:07 PM

I want to thank all of the folks who encouraged me to write this up and egged me on. The postscript to the story is that we had a few misadventures on the way down to 17K camp. We rested long enough to descend safely to the 14K camp where the storm was settling in. After a day of rest Andy decided to stay longer as he could not go back early and pay huge fines on his airfare. On the 21st Jimmy and Kerisi and I made a mad dash all the way down to the 7800' camp in one long relentless push, digging up all of our caches along the way. There we were boxed in by the storm until 3 PM. Then we whipped ourselves all the way across the 5 miles to the 7200' camp through now slushy snow and hot sunshine.

Remember how deserted it was on May 8th, just two weeks before? Now look at this

The storm had stopped all flights so folks just threw a huge party with beer, BBQs and loud music, an unbelievable sight.

This is Base Camp Lisa who made sure we got out on the last possible flight:

Loading up...

Flying off into the Alaskan twilight on only our 14th day

Ultimately we succeeded because of friendships with each other and with total strangers. Getting to the top was just the "icing" on the cake.

OutdoorLiving · 03-28-2007, 04:35 AM

Incredible story, thanks for sharing!

(I've been looking to get a fix since EVEREST on the Discovery Channel was short-lived.)

kmcc78240 · 03-28-2007, 06:25 AM

Thanks for sharing again, Very incredible.

4mydogs · 03-28-2007, 06:34 AM

Great, absolutely great!

Thanks for sharing that with us.

SteveO · 03-28-2007, 07:47 AM

Love the Pink Flamingo in the front yard of Base Camp Lisa's spot.

EuphoricKaty80 · 03-28-2007, 08:37 AM

but but but......i dont want it to be over.....

Teotwaki · 03-28-2007, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuphoricKaty80

but but but......i dont want it to be over.....

Sorry for shortening the ending. I did not want to drag it out too long. I can dig for more photos...

Bala de Plata · 03-28-2007, 04:39 PM

Absolutely amazing, thank you for sharing with us!!

***midiwall*** · 03-28-2007, 05:01 PM

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!

Well written, perfect suspense timing, incredible story, awesome pictures. (I think I'm out of adjectives)

WAAAAAAAAHOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!

sincity04 · 04-26-2007, 02:57 PM

That was one excellent adventure Jim, thanks for sharing!

Teotwaki · 04-26-2007, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sincity04

That was one excellent adventure Jim, thanks for sharing!

Thanks Joel! That is a huge compliment from someone who has had his own share of excellent adventures!

nieuwendyk-25 · 04-26-2007, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by simonpsu1

I'm in! I need more...

Yeah!!! Another RED 4Runner!

I am on the edge of my seat...I too am an armchair climber!

03-27-2007, 02:29 PM	#56 (permalink)
Swank Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Aurora, CO Posts: 94	What does an expedition cost per person (approx)? __________________ 1991 4 Runner 4x4 3VZE Manual 1995 Jetta GLX VR6 Turbo

03-27-2007, 03:33 PM	#58 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	Part 3: The Summit May 19th My watch alarm went off and my tent mate Andy stuck his head outside for a look. He starts excitedly yelling "We're going UP!" because we had perfect weather; cloudless and windless. It seemed to take forever to get ready. I was wearing all of my layers: Thin thermal underwear tops and bottoms Sock liners, synthetic hiking socks and heavy expedition socks Expedition plastic boots with custom fitted liners (similar to ski boots) Expedition insulated overboots Expedition Goretex gaiters 100 weight fleece tops and bottoms Breathable softhell pants and jacket Synthetic insulated pants Goretex outer pants Synthetic hooded jacket 800 fill Down expedition jacket Two fleece balaclavas, one using Gore windstopper to keep out high winds Thin glove liners Gore windstopper fleece gloves Expedition down mittens Custom extra-dark wraparound sunglasses (with blue nose protector!) Then crampons, climbing harness, a small summit pack with emergency gear and climbing gear; ice axe, pickets, carabiners etc. We roped up and......... Moving steadily up the hill, it is literally take a step and then 3 hard breaths. heading across towards the Arch Deacon's Tower and the "football field". The summit is in the near distance After crossing the field we'll climb Pig hill and then start across the summit ridge. __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-27-2007, 03:40 PM	#59 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	Summit! The pictures say it all.... Andy on top, pimping for friends who gave him free gear Father and son, Jimmy and Kerisi And the Old Man of the group at 20,320' high on a perfect day __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-27-2007, 03:43 PM	#60 (permalink)
SteveO Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: NM Posts: 1,848	Super Cool! __________________ http://www.Hunt4Steve.com In the span of time, life is short. Our life is like a wave on the ocean, a flower in the field, here today and gone tomorrow. Know yourself, know where you will spend eternity, for NOTHING else will matter when you die.

03-27-2007, 04:37 PM	#62 (permalink)
Mason Dixon Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Huntsville, Alabama Posts: 797	if you had skis, could you've skid down this part to get down faster? __________________ http://www.sectalk.com/images/graphi...ds/alabama.gif 2000 4Runner SR5 4x4 Sport

03-27-2007, 03:55 PM	#61 (permalink)
EuphoricKaty80 Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 2,407	that is amazing...the world must look so small from that high up...i cant imagine the feeling!

03-27-2007, 08:07 PM	#64 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	I want to thank all of the folks who encouraged me to write this up and egged me on. The postscript to the story is that we had a few misadventures on the way down to 17K camp. We rested long enough to descend safely to the 14K camp where the storm was settling in. After a day of rest Andy decided to stay longer as he could not go back early and pay huge fines on his airfare. On the 21st Jimmy and Kerisi and I made a mad dash all the way down to the 7800' camp in one long relentless push, digging up all of our caches along the way. There we were boxed in by the storm until 3 PM. Then we whipped ourselves all the way across the 5 miles to the 7200' camp through now slushy snow and hot sunshine. Remember how deserted it was on May 8th, just two weeks before? Now look at this The storm had stopped all flights so folks just threw a huge party with beer, BBQs and loud music, an unbelievable sight. This is Base Camp Lisa who made sure we got out on the last possible flight: Loading up... Flying off into the Alaskan twilight on only our 14th day Ultimately we succeeded because of friendships with each other and with total strangers. Getting to the top was just the "icing" on the cake. __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links Last edited by Teotwaki; 03-27-2007 at 08:09 PM.

03-28-2007, 06:34 AM	#67 (permalink)
4mydogs Contributing Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Galt's Gulch, SC Posts: 1,401	Great, absolutely great! Thanks for sharing that with us. __________________ 1995 SR5 V-6 4WD Limited, 180k miles, 31X10.5 BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Downey 1.5HD rear coils, 9" Doetsch MV-12s, Hella 1000 fog lights, Alpine XM/CD head unit, and rear window dog drool. That which you manifest is before you. -- Enzo

03-28-2007, 07:47 AM	#68 (permalink)
SteveO Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: NM Posts: 1,848	Love the Pink Flamingo in the front yard of Base Camp Lisa's spot. __________________ http://www.Hunt4Steve.com In the span of time, life is short. Our life is like a wave on the ocean, a flower in the field, here today and gone tomorrow. Know yourself, know where you will spend eternity, for NOTHING else will matter when you die.

03-28-2007, 08:37 AM	#69 (permalink)
EuphoricKaty80 Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 2,407	but but but......i dont want it to be over.....

03-28-2007, 04:39 PM	#71 (permalink)
Bala de Plata Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: So Cal Posts: 4	Absolutely amazing, thank you for sharing with us!! __________________ 05 v8 2wd "Pre"4runner BFG A/T 285/75/16, Hoe Coil Overs with TC UCA's, Allied Motorsports 4" Lift Spindles, Hoe Rear 2" Coil Springs, Hoe Rear Shocks, Demello Sliders, Magna Flow "shorty" Exhst, Stock Y-pipe correction, DOM driveshaft, 4.11 gears, ARB air locker, Viair 10007 on board 100% duty cycle air system w/2.5gln cap tank

03-28-2007, 05:01 PM	#72 (permalink)
*midiwall* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Seattleish, WA Posts: 9,078	Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! Well written, perfect suspense timing, incredible story, awesome pictures. (I think I'm out of adjectives) WAAAAAAAAHOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!! __________________ ~ Mark '96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams

04-26-2007, 02:57 PM	#73 (permalink)
sincity04 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 60	That was one excellent adventure Jim, thanks for sharing! __________________ Joel 04 Tiltin' Hilton

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