Climbing Mount McKinley in 2005

Teotwaki · 03-22-2007, 10:02 PM

I had some requests for more information on this expedition so I'll do it over a few days and a number of posts.

Part 1

The Indians of the area had many names for the mountain, but it was the white man who chose one Indian name that sounded "cool". The official name is Mount McKinley, the "cool" name is Denali.

It is the tallest mountain in North America at 20,320 feet and it absorbs the brutal lash of the northern polar storms for standing so mighty. It is said to be a training ground for Everest because the northern latitudes yield thinner air and more fiercely cold storms than the equivilent Himalayan altitudes. Many climbers die on Denali. There are 3000' drops where climbers hurtle to their demise at incredible speeds. Some crevasses are so deep that no attempts are made at body recovery.

Why would anyone want to go there?

After having been there I am unsure of the true answer. I do know that the experience changed me and that today my answer would be different than in early 2005.

In late 2004 a friend of mine named Duane threw out the idea of the climb. He has been to Everest and other Himilayan peaks and thought that we could pull off the Denali expedition on our own, no guides needed. Soon there were six of us, meeting weekly on the phone and in person. We plotted, planned, argued and trained. We knew that by the end of February we had to commit, buy our gear, climbing permits and plane tickets. We chose to ascend in early May 2005 in order to minimize crevasse danger, knowing full well that temperatures could be insanely cold.

At that time we had Duane and his father, Dick, and Jimmy and his son Kerisi and his best friend Andy.

L to R: Dick, Andy, Jimmy, Duane and Kerisi at the Talkeetna Inn, Alaska

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Teotwaki · 03-22-2007, 10:08 PM

The climb starts at 7200' feet after a fantastic ride in a specially equipped plane that lands on the glacier. The plane from Talkeetna Air Taxi was built in 1951, a DeHavilland Beaver rotary piston engine tank of a flying machine.

EWAYota · 03-22-2007, 10:09 PM

Teotwaki · 03-22-2007, 10:16 PM

It takes a lot of gear to survive three weeks on Denali. You have to carry all of it in a pack and in a sled towed behind you. We had no guides, no sherpas, no porters, no sled dogs, no snowmobiles. Just our own human power.

Here is a lot of expensive gear,

ready to roll out and load on the plane!

How will it all fit?

Teotwaki · 03-22-2007, 10:25 PM

Happy or scared......?

Already I have the first few layers on of light thermals, softshell pants and Koflach brand climbing boots. They are similar to ski boots with a hard plastic shell, rubber Vibram hiking soles and super warm inner liners. I am also wearing ultra thin liner socks, light hiking socks and heavy expedition socks over them.

Note the snow on the ground at the Talkeetna airport.

4mydogs · 03-23-2007, 05:05 AM

Keep it coming! I'm liking the story AND the pics!

Was in Talkeetna in 2001, and although I have no interest in climbing Denali myself, I enjoy being an armchair climber and hearing of other's exploits.

habanero · 03-23-2007, 05:43 AM

Great start. More please.

kmcc78240 · 03-23-2007, 06:22 AM

Awesome begining, Subscribed

neliconcept · 03-23-2007, 06:55 AM

makes my climb on Longs peak look like kiddy stuff.

Swank · 03-23-2007, 06:59 AM

Wow this is cool. Shoot we just put on a day pack and walk up and down Pike's peak in a day here. LOL I know it is nothing at all like McKinely. Props for sure for taking that on.

I had a back surgery a couple years ago and my surgeon was a expedition Dr. on a Everest trip and they hit the summit.

Teotwaki · 03-23-2007, 09:57 AM

Unexpectedly got time off and am running up to Cerro Gordo and the Salt Tram cabin up in the Inyo Mountains northwest of Death Valley. Be back Sunday! Got lots more pictures of McKinley to go

OutdoorLiving · 03-23-2007, 10:05 AM

*subscribing*

Tacoclimber · 03-23-2007, 10:06 AM

Teotwaki · 03-25-2007, 09:19 PM

Saline Salt Tram Thread here

http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=111316

Texas Jim · 03-25-2007, 09:29 PM

don't stop know the supence is killing me!!! TJ

Teotwaki · 03-25-2007, 09:34 PM

If you ever have a chance to go to Alaska, be sure to blow some money on "flightseeing" via Talkeetna Air. Great people and a company that a climbing expedition cand stake their lives on.

When our team got the first batch of gear loaded I was lucky enough to go. I'll tell you, when I looked out the window it was really "living the dream" as the view was even better than all of the Alaska documentaries I ever saw!

The heavily loaded plane climbed steadily higher and headed towards the "Kahiltna International Airport" on Kahiltna Glacier. It is jokingly called "international" because of climbers from all over the world setting foot there. Here are a few of the many types of bush planes with skis.

Note the large belly pod for cargo

A turboprop from K-2 Aviation

our plane on ice; note that the skis have been hydraulically lowered below the rubber landing wheels

Teotwaki · 03-25-2007, 11:36 PM

Next Part 2, the start of the ascent for Team "Ice Rubes"

rube
n. Slang An unsophisticated country person

ice rube
n. inexperienced climber
A frozen climber
a.k.a. Human Ice Cube or "Corpsicle"

Expat · 03-25-2007, 11:50 PM

ugh...more now please. You know how to tell a story! Where's my beer and nibbles...waiting and ready for more.

simonpsu1 · 03-26-2007, 09:18 AM

I'm in! I need more...

seanz0rz · 03-26-2007, 09:24 AM

just one more reason Teotwaki is so awesome!

we need to go offroading again when i fix my truck!

looks like an awesome trip. waiting for the story to finish will keep me going through this week!

EuphoricKaty80 · 03-26-2007, 09:46 AM

*subscribed*

91TPU · 03-26-2007, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EuphoricKaty80

*subscribed*

...X2

SteveO · 03-26-2007, 10:06 AM

Very cool, keep the pics and story line coming.

99_Runner · 03-26-2007, 10:41 AM

Where's the rest?

Great story and pics.

Teotwaki · 03-26-2007, 10:59 AM

So how did we come to be known as the "Ice Rubes"? It turns out that when we applied for our climbing permit the US National Parks Service (NPS) had a box to fill in for a team name. Being the flippant type I fused together thoughts of naive beginners from the countryside (American Gothic painting) and what happens to folks who make fatal errors in mountaineering (frozen dead bodies). Instead of Human Ice Cubes we were now Team Ice Rubes!

We flew onto the mountain mid day, May 8th 2005 to the 7200' landing zone. Our plan was to get off the mountain somewhere around the 29th and we had the food and fuel planned for that.
Heading in for a landing!

We had to sign in with the Ranger and set up our first camp to spend the night there. As part of the plan we had pre-paid for fuel on the mountain as well as the sleds that we rented.

Here is our first camp site. Really nice temps, blue skies and no winds. We were blessed with the right weather at the right time. Most folks plan on a three week expedition because of possible bad weather. Note in the background how very few other folks are there in early May. The area was quite empty.

Andy and Kerisi in our "kitchen"

fuel depot that we picked up our white gas from.

After staying one night we planned to get an early start to the 7800' camp because it is a long hard trek. Although we buried some emergency gear at the 7200' camp, we would have extremely heavy loads the first day. The trek involved going down to about 6500' and then back up to 7800' over a 5 mile distance. This was the biggest stretch of open glacier and the highest potential for falling into a crevasse.

03-22-2007, 10:08 PM	#2 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	The route up the mountain The climb starts at 7200' feet after a fantastic ride in a specially equipped plane that lands on the glacier. The plane from Talkeetna Air Taxi was built in 1951, a DeHavilland Beaver rotary piston engine tank of a flying machine. __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-22-2007, 10:09 PM	#3 (permalink)
EWAYota Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Richland, Washington Posts: 4,602	__________________ DJ 1994 Pickup 22RE, Engnbldr 261 cam, 5 speed. Tires that go around and around... Originally Posted By Fustercluck "Proof that Gangus did not spontaneously generate....he has relatives." Originally Posted By Tacoclimber "My two year old better get a job, soon..." Reply Posted By Oly884 "I hear coal mining is a great career." Myspace

03-22-2007, 10:16 PM	#4 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	The gear needed It takes a lot of gear to survive three weeks on Denali. You have to carry all of it in a pack and in a sled towed behind you. We had no guides, no sherpas, no porters, no sled dogs, no snowmobiles. Just our own human power. Here is a lot of expensive gear, ready to roll out and load on the plane! How will it all fit? __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-22-2007, 10:25 PM	#5 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	Happy or scared......? Already I have the first few layers on of light thermals, softshell pants and Koflach brand climbing boots. They are similar to ski boots with a hard plastic shell, rubber Vibram hiking soles and super warm inner liners. I am also wearing ultra thin liner socks, light hiking socks and heavy expedition socks over them. Note the snow on the ground at the Talkeetna airport. __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-23-2007, 05:05 AM	#6 (permalink)
4mydogs Contributing Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Galt's Gulch, SC Posts: 1,383	Keep it coming! I'm liking the story AND the pics! Was in Talkeetna in 2001, and although I have no interest in climbing Denali myself, I enjoy being an armchair climber and hearing of other's exploits. __________________ 1995 SR5 V-6 4WD Limited, 176k miles, 31X10.5 BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Downey 1.5HD rear coils, 9" Doetsch MV-12s, Hella 1000 fog lights, Alpine XM/CD head unit, and rear window dog drool. That which you manifest is before you. -- Enzo

03-23-2007, 06:55 AM	#9 (permalink)
neliconcept Banned Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 0	makes my climb on Longs peak look like kiddy stuff.

03-23-2007, 06:59 AM	#10 (permalink)
Swank Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Aurora, CO Posts: 94	Wow this is cool. Shoot we just put on a day pack and walk up and down Pike's peak in a day here. LOL I know it is nothing at all like McKinely. Props for sure for taking that on. I had a back surgery a couple years ago and my surgeon was a expedition Dr. on a Everest trip and they hit the summit. __________________ 1991 4 Runner 4x4 3VZE Manual 1995 Jetta GLX VR6 Turbo

03-23-2007, 09:57 AM	#11 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	Unexpectedly got time off and am running up to Cerro Gordo and the Salt Tram cabin up in the Inyo Mountains northwest of Death Valley. Be back Sunday! Got lots more pictures of McKinley to go __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-23-2007, 10:06 AM	#13 (permalink)
Tacoclimber Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Between a rock and a hard place, AZ Posts: 3,685	__________________ CJ ...<>< 03 DC TRD Tacoma 4wd with a bunch of junk. Just wheel the stupid thing!!! But do it responsibly, ok? "God is dead" - Neitzsche "Neitzsche is dead" - God

03-25-2007, 09:19 PM	#14 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	Saline Salt Tram Thread here http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=111316 __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-25-2007, 09:29 PM	#15 (permalink)
Texas Jim Banned Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 0	don't stop know the supence is killing me!!! TJ

03-25-2007, 09:34 PM	#16 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	If you ever have a chance to go to Alaska, be sure to blow some money on "flightseeing" via Talkeetna Air. Great people and a company that a climbing expedition cand stake their lives on. When our team got the first batch of gear loaded I was lucky enough to go. I'll tell you, when I looked out the window it was really "living the dream" as the view was even better than all of the Alaska documentaries I ever saw! The heavily loaded plane climbed steadily higher and headed towards the "Kahiltna International Airport" on Kahiltna Glacier. It is jokingly called "international" because of climbers from all over the world setting foot there. Here are a few of the many types of bush planes with skis. Note the large belly pod for cargo A turboprop from K-2 Aviation our plane on ice; note that the skis have been hydraulically lowered below the rubber landing wheels __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

03-25-2007, 11:36 PM	#17 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	Next Part 2, the start of the ascent for Team "Ice Rubes" rube n. Slang An unsophisticated country person *ice rube* n. inexperienced climber A frozen climber a.k.a. Human Ice Cube or "Corpsicle" __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links Last edited by Teotwaki; 03-25-2007 at 11:37 PM.

03-25-2007, 11:50 PM	#18 (permalink)
Expat Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Agoura Hills, CA Posts: 456	ugh...more now please. You know how to tell a story! Where's my beer and nibbles...waiting and ready for more. __________________ Mark 04 4Runner SE, 17x9 MT ClassicLocks, 305x17x70 Nitto Terragraps., SW Sliders & Bullbar, Smittybilt 10000lb winch, OME Susp, 1.5" 4Crawler BL, Kurt Trailing Arms, MagnaFlow, 60" High Lift, Cobra 75WXST CB radio, 4ft Firestick, Yaesu FT-7800 2m/70cm Ham Radio, Comet Dualband Ant., Sat. Radio, Garmin Nuvi GPS, CO2 system, Lightforce 240 Blitz, Surco roofrack, Downey Frt skid

03-26-2007, 09:18 AM	#19 (permalink)
simonpsu1 Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: State College, PA Posts: 52	I'm in! I need more... __________________ - Jim 1997 Radiant Red 4-Runner SR5 4X4 3.4 L - Maglite mod.

03-26-2007, 09:24 AM	#20 (permalink)
seanz0rz Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Cal Poly Pomona or Redlands, CA Posts: 1,284	just one more reason Teotwaki is so awesome! we need to go offroading again when i fix my truck! looks like an awesome trip. waiting for the story to finish will keep me going through this week! __________________ 1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 in Evergreen Pearl Metallic, Sonoran Steel #1, 285/75R16 BFG A/T, Elocker retrofit, Tundra calipers, brembo blanks, hawk lts pads, CarPC in custom center console with molded Indash touchscreen, KC daylighters mounted on Surco Safari rack, Custom sound system, 4xinnovation sliders, sleeping platform, Shrockworks front bumper, 1" 4crawler body lift, etc. Pictures Photobucket is being updated, if a picture i posted no longer works, please PM me.

03-26-2007, 09:46 AM	#21 (permalink)
EuphoricKaty80 Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 2,408	subscribed

03-26-2007, 10:06 AM	#23 (permalink)
SteveO Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: NM Posts: 1,848	Very cool, keep the pics and story line coming. __________________ http://www.Hunt4Steve.com In the span of time, life is short. Our life is like a wave on the ocean, a flower in the field, here today and gone tomorrow. Know yourself, know where you will spend eternity, for NOTHING else will matter when you die.

03-26-2007, 10:41 AM	#24 (permalink)
99_Runner Registered User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 1,115	Where's the rest? Great story and pics. __________________ Drew 99 4Runner SR5, auto, 3.4 V6, factory rear locker, 265/75 Yokohama Geolander AT+II Stock for now, but hopefully not for long.

03-26-2007, 10:59 AM	#25 (permalink)
Teotwaki Registered User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Southern California Posts: 188	Part 2 On The Mountain! So how did we come to be known as the "Ice Rubes"? It turns out that when we applied for our climbing permit the US National Parks Service (NPS) had a box to fill in for a team name. Being the flippant type I fused together thoughts of naive beginners from the countryside (American Gothic painting) and what happens to folks who make fatal errors in mountaineering (frozen dead bodies). Instead of Human Ice Cubes we were now Team Ice Rubes! We flew onto the mountain mid day, May 8th 2005 to the 7200' landing zone. Our plan was to get off the mountain somewhere around the 29th and we had the food and fuel planned for that. Heading in for a landing! We had to sign in with the Ranger and set up our first camp to spend the night there. As part of the plan we had pre-paid for fuel on the mountain as well as the sleds that we rented. Here is our first camp site. Really nice temps, blue skies and no winds. We were blessed with the right weather at the right time. Most folks plan on a three week expedition because of possible bad weather. Note in the background how very few other folks are there in early May. The area was quite empty. Andy and Kerisi in our "kitchen" fuel depot that we picked up our white gas from. After staying one night we planned to get an early start to the 7800' camp because it is a long hard trek. Although we buried some emergency gear at the 7200' camp, we would have extremely heavy loads the first day. The trek involved going down to about 6500' and then back up to 7800' over a 5 mile distance. This was the biggest stretch of open glacier and the highest potential for falling into a crevasse. __________________ 2005 SR5 4WD 4Runner Hanna rock sliders, 3" Downey coilovers, Deaver rear springs 30% stiffer & 2.5" taller, Donahoe rear shocks, LT265/75/R16 Bridgestone Revo's, rear diff. breather mod, Scion T1806 H/U, rear bumper LEDs, auto-dim mirror with compass & UV meter, Hi-Lift jack & gadgets, ScanGauge II, Midland CB, Garmin 276C GPS, Engel Fridge, All Pro rear lower links

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