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Old 07-06-2006, 09:47 AM   #1
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chevy avalanche rear brakes

Anyone know how to get the rear brakes off a chevy avalanche?

more precisely the drivers side rear....the passengers came right off.
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94 Toyota Truck 4x4 22RE, 5 Speed 175,000
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:01 AM   #2
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A Bfh.
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:03 AM   #3
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adjust the shoes in so they dont catch the lip of the drum....

we are talking drums/shoes right?
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:03 AM   #4
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lol that's what I thought. There is a dust sheild on the inside of the rotor so you cant hit it that direction. Gonna try smacking it the other direction and see if it will move at all.
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94 Toyota Truck 4x4 22RE, 5 Speed 175,000
MOD's include High performance Head with bigger valves and cam, LC engineering Header and complete exhaust kit.
I have upgraded headlights with the wiring harrness and Hella H4 allweather bulbs.
lift shackels in the rear
3 inch BL
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:03 AM   #5
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they are front and rear disks...with a parking brake
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94 Toyota Truck 4x4 22RE, 5 Speed 175,000
MOD's include High performance Head with bigger valves and cam, LC engineering Header and complete exhaust kit.
I have upgraded headlights with the wiring harrness and Hella H4 allweather bulbs.
lift shackels in the rear
3 inch BL
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:18 AM   #6
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smack the drum part towards the truck. Not away like your thinking. Trust me, it will nock it loose enough to pull off.
Sometimes you gotta hit it REALLY hard. Don't be scared to wail on it.
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:18 AM   #7
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thats my plan for right now. but it is a rotor not a drum.....
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94 Toyota Truck 4x4 22RE, 5 Speed 175,000
MOD's include High performance Head with bigger valves and cam, LC engineering Header and complete exhaust kit.
I have upgraded headlights with the wiring harrness and Hella H4 allweather bulbs.
lift shackels in the rear
3 inch BL
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:20 PM   #8
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I use a strategically place brass drift and beat the stink out of it 'til it breaks loose.
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:24 PM   #9
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Are the e-brake shoes the type that push on the inside of the rotor "hat"? That's how my JGC ones are. Maybe release the e-brake? Sometimes it is something simple...
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:20 PM   #10
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Being a former Chevy dealer tech I will give the definitive answer to this. Hit the center part of the rotor near the hub(of which the center part is actually a drum for your e-brake) with a big hammer pretty much all over. Whack it from back to front of the vehicle, front to back, and in towards the truck. Eventually it will come off. You do risk warping the rotor in this case, although there isn't much you can do about it. Check your e-brake shoes and the drum surface closely because there's usually a reason they stick. Those e-brakes are notorious for burning up when left on.
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillsFJC
Being a former Chevy dealer tech I will give the definitive answer to this. Hit the center part of the rotor near the hub(of which the center part is actually a drum for your e-brake) with a big hammer pretty much all over. Whack it from back to front of the vehicle, front to back, and in towards the truck. Eventually it will come off. You do risk warping the rotor in this case, although there isn't much you can do about it. Check your e-brake shoes and the drum surface closely because there's usually a reason they stick. Those e-brakes are notorious for burning up when left on.
wow, I didnt know it took so little to warp rotors. I dont tihnk changing brake pads are vehicle specific...LOL

I use a rubber hammer and just hit the outermost part of the rotor, it will eventually come off.
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:42 PM   #12
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I wasn't trying to be an ass with that definitive answer part, I've just encountered several of those things, and no amount of rubber hammer will take the worst of those off. I remember one that came in where a lady had left her e-brake on long enough to burn up the e-brake shoes, brake pads, and managed to weld the metal shoe to the drum portion of the rotor. There's a reason the brake light flashes if you leave your e-brake on on those things.
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Old 07-06-2006, 07:50 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillsFJC
I wasn't trying to be an ass with that definitive answer part, I've just encountered several of those things, and no amount of rubber hammer will take the worst of those off. I remember one that came in where a lady had left her e-brake on long enough to burn up the e-brake shoes, brake pads, and managed to weld the metal shoe to the drum portion of the rotor. There's a reason the brake light flashes if you leave your e-brake on on those things.
sorry man, I wasnt implying that you were an ass. My bad. I figure this is just a normal BJ(brake job you sick0s!) yea, there are lots of idiots out there
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Old 07-06-2006, 08:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Localmotion
sorry man, I wasnt implying that you were an ass. My bad. I figure this is just a normal BJ(brake job you sick0s!) yea, there are lots of idiots out there
So is there a correlation between toothless technicians and great "BJ's"?
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Old 07-06-2006, 10:03 PM   #15
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I knocked my front teeth out doing rear brakes on a van once...

Now as far as those other types of bjs, I leave them to the girlfriend.
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Old 07-07-2006, 03:59 AM   #16
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Thanks guys...I beat the heck out of that rotor last night with a 3lb sledge...still not off....the ebrake is not set..but we went ahead and disconnected the cable also just in case....

it is definetly the ebrake that has got it by the short hairs but I cant get this thing off so far....


I want to bust the dust sheild off the back side and beat the rotor from that side...my brother doesnt want to do that...YET...
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I have upgraded headlights with the wiring harrness and Hella H4 allweather bulbs.
lift shackels in the rear
3 inch BL
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Old 07-07-2006, 07:18 AM   #17
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Keep beating, you may have to hit the surface of the rotor but you should not have to mollest the backing plate in my experience. Either way those things are a mother f'er, good luck.
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Old 07-07-2006, 09:01 AM   #18
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I wouldn't hit the surface of the rotor. Only hit the drum part(IE ebrake part). I would get a bigger hammer or look on the drum part for two threaded holes. Usually they have these threaded holes to screw in two bolts. The bolts push against a part on the other side which in turn pops the rotor off. Hopefully your rotor has em.

Good luck and get the damn things off!
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Old 07-07-2006, 09:06 AM   #19
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The Chevy rotors in question do not have bolt holes. If it really is as frozen on as it sounds he probably will have to beat the rotor surface as well and buy a new one, obviously this should be a last resort.
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:55 PM   #20
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What if you heat the rotors at the lugs with a torch? Maybe the expansion caused by heat would help break it loose.....
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:55 PM
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