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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Blazeland D.I.Y. weld up kit!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Vian, OK
Posts: 2,064
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looks fairly straight forward..but please do tell..how do you keep the arms parallel and keep them from warping during welding??
sorry if it's an obvious answer though..lol..i dont weld too much..so i wouldnt be the one doing the welding..i would have a friend of mine (who is a professional welder) do it in his spare time..LOL hmmm...maybe it will pay off to know allll the people i do..lmao
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FOR SALE 1986 Ext. Cab 4x4, rebuilt 22R, 5spd, 31x10.50 X-Terrains FOR SALE 1992 SR5 FO RUNNA V6, 5 speed, 4in. trail-master lift, 33x12.50 BFG muds, 4.56 gears!!! and an IMMACULATE interior..yes..you should be jealous "Its still a toyota man.. Dont deprive it of its capabilities.." "If you can read english, Thank a teacher...If you can speak it, Thank a soldier!!" Kelli Ruark-2009 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Santa Clarita, CA
Posts: 24
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i've been looking at this kit for sometime, as i know for a lot of people money is tight, but the chance to DIY it, i would, i have friends who work in local machine shops, and could weld for me at a discounted price. i would have no problems forking over the cash for this, if this is something that looks promising, sign me up for the first kit
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2000 Mazda Miata- dedicated toy 1995 4Runner - my stock, toy hauler |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 757
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Perhaps you could design a a jig, and give the plans with the DIY kit. That way, all they have to do is make the jig and they're set to make the LCA.
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1987 Toyota Pickup DLX. 30" Cooper Discoverer S/T's. 1" AAL lift and Tbar crank. and two KC HiLites. IFS Club #5 1978 Camaro Z28, 454 Big Block V8 with a 4 Speed. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Vian, OK
Posts: 2,064
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so what are we lookin at price wise for your DIY weld up kit??..around $600 since we still purchase the rest of the stuff from you???
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FOR SALE 1986 Ext. Cab 4x4, rebuilt 22R, 5spd, 31x10.50 X-Terrains FOR SALE 1992 SR5 FO RUNNA V6, 5 speed, 4in. trail-master lift, 33x12.50 BFG muds, 4.56 gears!!! and an IMMACULATE interior..yes..you should be jealous "Its still a toyota man.. Dont deprive it of its capabilities.." "If you can read english, Thank a teacher...If you can speak it, Thank a soldier!!" Kelli Ruark-2009 |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Quote:
Its a lot of work to weld one up even if you have the fixtures and have done it multiple times. I have built two dozen LCAs and everytime I built one I say to myself "damn that was a lot of work" There is a learning curve that must be addressed especially for that first timer. I enjoyed designing things and figuring out the best method to build these things but after the 20th LCA I had enough. It took quite a bit of work to explain the process to a professional fabricator when I decided to contract out the work. I spent a few hours with the shop owner and his most experienced guy going over the process. The laser cut steel templates took some time to design. There was quite a bit of work involved in getting everything to fit just right. I worked as a senior CADD draftsman for years so creating the working drawing files wasn't too bad. These files had to be converted to a language the laser cutter could read. Once the program was set its just a push of a few buttons to cut 1 or to cut 100. Besides the steel templates there is the rectangular tube used as spacers for the lengthening the arms. This is straight forward but finding the ideal length took some trial and error. Once the length was determined its just a push of a few buttons to cut 1 or to cut 100. Man.... there is so much involved, I am just not sure where to start. Anyway its Friday night, I'm going to the pub for a beer. I'll continue this banter later! Last edited by BlazeN8; 10-16-2009 at 09:39 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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I have considered that. I have fixtures all ready designed and built and could make duplicates and sell them. I would of course require some liscensing agreements. Might be something of interest for a entrepreneur. Buy a fixture for say $1000 that would include a liscense to build and distribute. I'd sell the steel recharge packs and collect a royalty. I really don't see that working though, no one is buying as it is, why over saturate a non-existant market. Be patient, I'll get to another solution that might work. I am toying with a disposable fixture. I'll have to build the prototype but I think it has potential.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Here is what the weld up might include. There could also be a poly bushing pack for those wanting to replace old and worn out factory bushings. Replacing the factory bonded rubber bushings are a whole other can of worms. I'd encourage using the free-rotating, non-binding poly bushings but its a messy job burning them out and if you damage the captured washers getting the assemby apart your screwed. For those of you out there who have replaced LCA bushings please chime in with comments to attest this!
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Core LCAs
I guess the first place to start is with the weld up kit is obtaining core LCAs. You could use what you have but your truck will have some down time while you fabricate, and who wants that. Besides cores are cheap and its nice to have spares in case you ever want to go back to stock. Call around salvage yards for the best price. In my experience I've found a set of LCAs to be $40-$100. The other issue is to make sure you get the correct ones. There are two variances: 1986-1988 and 1989-1995. They are nearly identical with exception of the bushings. A good salvage yard will mark the LCA with the year. If the year is unknown it is difficult to identify because the captured washers cover up the only visual clue. I can identify the difference by feel by inserting a flat blade screw driver behind the washer. The following picture is of a UCA (w/ cross shafts removed) but the LCA is similar. The later years (right) have the depression in the rubber. As you probe with the screw driver you can feel the cavity.
Once the correct LCAs are identified there are a couple of other things to look for. The obvious is their condition. Look for accident damage such as dents, scrapes, bending, or twisting. Make sure the bushings and captured washers are intact. I also avoid rust, grease, grim, excessively dirty LCAs. If the LCA ball joints have been removed examine the condition of the taperd hole and surrounding steel. Some guys hammer the crap out of the LCA to remove the ball joint and cause damage. If the ball joint is still intact use a ball joint removal tool or leave it in place if its in good condition. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Inverness,FL
Posts: 1,037
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in my here haynes manual it says to just use a smaller socket that will fit inside of the LCA bushing and a large socket on the other side and a vise and just press them out, would be a whole lot easier than burning it out! but yeah ill be getting a welder and some other odds and ends this year around tax time, so a DIY kit would be pretty cool, and no im not gonna do it by myself i also have a pro welder friend, odd how alot of us know welders?
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new to me 86' toy on 35" procomp mud terrains, with a 4" lift and 3" body and palm fron camo for now... 04' Dodge 2500 4x4 QC hemi leveled, home made CAI and flowmaster exhaust |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Core LCA preparation
Once you have obtained the core LCAs the next step is preparing them for modification. Here is where you want to make a critical decision, are you going to re-use the stock bushings or will you be replacing with new. I have done it either way but I prefer to start my fabrication with a clean slate. I am processing my LCAs in bulk! I'll send a batch of ten over to my powder coater to be baked in an industrial oven overnight. The burn cycle is 8 hours long and hits temperatures of about 800 degrees. When its over there is nothing left but bare metal and ash. A light sandblast will remove the ash residue. Now when I go to weld I get clean welds. The other benifit is all the rubber from the bushings burns away and the steel sleeves and captured washers fall apart and are ready to be re-coated with zinc.
If you decide to re-use the stock bushings and have a sand blasting booth the paint removal and cleaning isn't too bad. If your using a chemical stripper or mechanical method such as a wire wheel, a scraper, or a sander enjoy! Not a fun task but you have to get down to bare metal before you start welding. At least you only need to strip the paint where you will be plating! |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Quote:
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Ok guys, I think I might have this hypothetically worked out. I created some plans to build the fixture needed to fabricate the LCAs. The plans, hardware, and materials needed to build the fixture would come with the weld up kit. I will be working on an instruction manual if I get enough interest. It maybe a power point presentation burned onto a CD? Anyway pricing could be something as follows:
A. Lower Control Arm Weld up kit: $100 -Steel pack for LCAs (1 pair) -Fixture construction hardware and materials -Plans and Instructions B. Upper Control Arm Extension Brackets: $200 pair -Grade 8 hardware pack: C. New Extended Length Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves: $100 pair -RH & LH Jam Nuts: D. Extended Length Stainless Steel Brakelines: $75 pair -Hardware Total $475 plus tax, shipping and handling *For people who have purchased (A.) there could be a steel recharge pack for $50 to make additional LCAs. So, who wants in on this? |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ca
Posts: 520
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Sounds like a great deal Nate. I hope this will get some more of your kits off the shelves. After what I saw at Pismo, I'm sold on the quality and durability of your product. I'm already budgeting for a kit from you, and can't wait to get it installed.
Thanks again, Adam.
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87 4Runner, 22re, 5 spd, 4.88, ARB rear, Mile Marker PE8000, Downey Header, TG Sliders, 3" BL, Home Fab Front and Rear Bumper, WabFab Bikini Top, Rustoleum OD Green. Build Thread 98 Tacoma Prerunner, 2.7, 340k. 91 4Runner, V6. 5 speed, Pro Comp lift, 33's, Rock Crawlers. Sold. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 10
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this sounds good. I was one of the cheap bastards that emailed you..... :p
money if a factor or i would have this on my truck already. but the DIY option is much more affordable.If this comes to life,pencil me in for ordering a set. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Quote:
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Cheap bastards..... ha ha aren't we all these days! I am trying my best to get this Blazeland BS out there! You guys want lower price, I am just trying to satisfy the customer wants.
Last edited by BlazeN8; 10-21-2009 at 08:23 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 56
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Sweet, I still gotta wait until I start working before getting either kit haha, but it's cool you offer a "budget" option on an already "budget-minded" kit. I hope this gets you more sales, I am definetly interested once I start working though. Might just get one of those 2 dozen you already have welded up though, those ones are powder-coated and have new bushings already installed? Kind of a nice feature especially since my truck sees a few months of solid snowy driving.
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Inverness,FL
Posts: 1,037
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sounds like a good plan, im tryin to get ur name out there
i mention it in every thread that wants a lift, its a better option than a bracket lift IMO keep up the good stuff
__________________
new to me 86' toy on 35" procomp mud terrains, with a 4" lift and 3" body and palm fron camo for now... 04' Dodge 2500 4x4 QC hemi leveled, home made CAI and flowmaster exhaust |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: michigan
Posts: 5
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LT kit
I think I will be hopefully getting your kit in about December. What is the best shock to run with your kit? Could I put a shock hoop on and run a coilover? Also could you post some pics of a truck with your kit on it? I have a 90 4x4 reg cab and would like to have my DD match my trophykart. What would the total price be to get everything I need to set my truck up? Also shipped to Michigan. I will be talking to you soon. Thanks agian for what you are doing. Making a LT kit that a regular guy can afford.
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#21 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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Cool, I'll look forward to December. Visit the www.blazeland.us website for some answers to your questions. Also, do a forum Search here on yotatech. There is a menu list on the top of the page. Type in "Blazeland" and your find all the information and pictures you'll ever want on various shock configurations, coil over options, and a few pictures of customer rides and testimonials. The yotatech members really picked my brain. This forum topic we are on now is somewhat hypothetical in nature as I am still deciding on offering a weld up kit. Are you down with the weld up kit?
Quote:
Last edited by BlazeN8; 10-25-2009 at 10:19 PM. |
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#22 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 10
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i can be a tester for you...just send me the kit and I can have it welded up by a pro....
so any firm price yet? or clear road youre going to go with this? |
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#23 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 86
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If I had a nickel for every guy wanting to be a tester! Anyway, I have built the prototype weld up jig (see attached thumbnail) It will work awesome if you follow my step by step instructions. I just need to get about 10 people with deposits so I can have everthing laser cut. Here are the prices:
LCA weld up kit $100 UCA brackets $200 Tie Rod Adjusting Sleeves $100 Shipping $15 Tax $32 Total cost is $447.00 You will have to supply your own Torsion Bars, Brakelines, Shocks, and T-100 axel shafts. And of course, the rear suspension. Send me a deposit for $100 and I'll send you the LCA weld up kit. Test your fabrication skills and weld up a pair of LCAs. Then send me the remaining $337 plus another $15 for shipping and I'll send you the rest of the kit. To get things started, send me a yotatech friend request and send me an e-mail to the address on the Blazeland website. Include your contact information and vehicle description. I'll reply back to your message with the address and a disclaimer form. You need to sign the form and mail it with a cahiers check. Blazen8 Last edited by BlazeN8; 11-02-2009 at 09:36 PM. |
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#24 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 757
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ughh
i wish i could find a job, i would totally buy an LT kit..
__________________
1987 Toyota Pickup DLX. 30" Cooper Discoverer S/T's. 1" AAL lift and Tbar crank. and two KC HiLites. IFS Club #5 1978 Camaro Z28, 454 Big Block V8 with a 4 Speed. |
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| Tags |
| blazeland, blazelandnet, blazelandus, burning, bushings, diy, kit, kits, laser, lift, lt, road, suspension, usa, warping, weld, welding |
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