westy44runner

Spool the rear and E-lock or ARB the front.

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'86 Toy Flatbed with a few modifications

orangeyota

yes about the quirks, gettin on the highway the other day and i was givvin the little 22-r heck, shifted into fifth and i guess the detroit decide to unlock while i was shifting and merging, bout run a little civic with a fart pipe off the road .. shoulda seen the guys girlfried look up and jump over to the other seat... but in the snow, just like previous yota owners have posted, just drive it and get used to it, it is about 10 times more fun to drive in the rain or snow with a spool or detroit, people kinda don;t know what to think when they see a yota on 39s drift around a turn or u-wie.

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87' toy, SAS, detroit locked fr&rear, 5.29's, 6" all-pro's, built 22-r, n some 39.5 iroks... blah blah blah

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/677891

motoracer47

um, are u refering to road racing race cars? or some form of road racing with our rigs? i race shifter karts, ive tested a formula mazda, and hopefully one day a formula atlantic. i can assure everyone none of these cars have spooled(locked) rear diffs(exept the shifter is a straight axle no diff at all, but u lift the inside rear tire while cornering so its not a problem). for road racing, the vast majority of cars run clutch plate lsd(also known as Salisbury), with selectable ramp profiles. i can promise a fully locked rear diff in a road race car will understeer horribly going into the corners. in fact, i run 0-10%max diff lock under decel, and normally about 40-50% on accel, although ive driven a drifter with 75% accel lockup, not to bad. some dirt oval guys run spools, but thats not road racing

Beast

spool or locker in the front is good for hard core off-roading / snow and ice have fun trying to steer

I am locked in the rear and love the predictablility of knowing when i stab it in a corner the rear end is going to step out side was.... If that scares YOU you want to sell your truck and get subaru or maybe a civic fwd

I on the other hand have been told by numberous friends that they have seen 4-8 inches of day light under my inside rear tire when raging on dry pavement...but I love the skinny peddle and know my truck.

I hate one tire fire .... open diff rear sucks

so if you like to let it hang out (drift) spool the rear
if your scared go home and park you should be driving a yota

up front limited slip/arb is my choice

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Beast started out as an 81' now W/ 7mgte, w56, 2nd gen rearend, centerforce DF, FX bucket seats, Beast bumpers front and rear, reinforced frame, custom steel grill, custom quad headlights, four 165 watt KC daylighters on double tube roll bar, eight speaker stereo,

getitdone

Damn, your crazy!

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3D 85 4Runner SR5 | 33" BFG M/T on flat black rims | Chevy springs | Custom Grab cage with overhead cb mount | Custom fabbed center console | Freshly rebuilt axle with IFS hub/caliper swap | Rock Sliders | Lots more...


In Colorado, Dig.

snap-on

crawler, perhaps i missed it but your experience is from an auto or 5speed.

I have had a detroit in my 5speed pickup for a number of years now. and there are some defenit quirks to it. Stuff you can come to expect, but there have been times when ive really been caught off gard. (usually on the highway on a turn and i let out of the gas (from accell) to decell engine brake, i can expect some weirdness)

and yes i second the comment about drifing around turns and poping a U-ewe on wet pavement by just dumping the clutch and swinging the back end around in the space of about 1.5 lanes.

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94 EX cab, 5speed, V6, locked, ARB bar, NWOR headers
92 4runner, auto, V6, OME suspension, Downey headers

crawler#976

I've got a 5 speed manual it the BPOS...

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...down to the two Taco's, no more SloYota!

SlightlyModified

anyone welding both front and rear? I've welded rears before with much luck. I'm still debating on wether or not to weld the front of my 81. Money is tight right now with other parts. I'm worried about wear on parts.

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81 pickup, 33's, 3" drivetrain lift, 5 speed, see buildup here http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.p...1#post50392798
94 f250 4x4, 285 BFG a/t's, 7.3 turbo diesel
05' Honda Rincon 4x4 atv, procircuit t4 exhaust, 26" ITP mudlite's.
78' VW Rabbit, Veggie fuel conversion (in the future)
74' VW Beetle, all original (for sale)
Alot of Toy parts for sale, PM for info and prices.

oz31p

i have a detroit in my rear and open in the front. rain snow ice dirt or payvment. it all seems the same. but its been a while since i had a dd with an open dif in the rear. when i turn very sharp on any surface you can hear the road give a little. but off road, i would let you cut off my left leg before you took my locker from me.

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TIM

1987 4RUNNER SR5- 22RE: downey headers, norwest offroad exaust, k&n intake, sway-away t-bars, 2inch downey lift springs, 31x10.50x15's, custom front and rear bumpers, detroit locker in the rear.

IF YOU BUILD IT, IT WILL CRAWL

jode

This thread seems to be a pretty good way to start all kinds of new "urban legends" about spools. From reading the first post, you'd think that all new cars should come with spools if it weren't for the fact that they wear tires out faster. That is pure bunk.

All the "myths" were overstated, and the affects of the spool were understated.

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'94 PU | 22RE | No lift | 33X9.5s on Alum. 4Runner rims

WTB - Dual case adaptor/skid

94toyota4x4

Did you put in the spool yourself? If so, was it difficult, and what would I need in order to put a full spool in my axel?

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1991 4x4 Toy x-cab SR5 V6 soon to be inline six I hope(7m-gte), Total Chaos Gen 2 caddy kit, 62" Devs with king shocks all the way around, fugitive fab buile bed cage, triple bypasses in the rear, fiberglass hood and fenders f&R tacoma rear fenders, and a long list of other things its for sale pm if intrestednot the truck in avatar check classifieds

snap-on

If you can set up a thrid you can put a spool in.

the spool replaces the carrer, so youll need to be able to press bearings. If your useing the same gears the shims should be close but thats no gareentee on a used set.

search out setting up gears and youll figure out if its something you can do.

id say easly a 4 out of 5 wrench job because of the specialty tools required and cost that it takes to replace your mistake.

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94 EX cab, 5speed, V6, locked, ARB bar, NWOR headers
92 4runner, auto, V6, OME suspension, Downey headers

94toyota4x4

How much do you think a local 4x4 shop would do it for, just the rear on stock gears, and maybe also on 4.88 gears so I can get an iddea thanks.

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1991 4x4 Toy x-cab SR5 V6 soon to be inline six I hope(7m-gte), Total Chaos Gen 2 caddy kit, 62" Devs with king shocks all the way around, fugitive fab buile bed cage, triple bypasses in the rear, fiberglass hood and fenders f&R tacoma rear fenders, and a long list of other things its for sale pm if intrestednot the truck in avatar check classifieds

customcruiser

i have a spool rear and welded front.....

i have driven my sased 4runner with a spool and it sucks bad. my suspension would cycle to the bumpstops both sides in a parking lot.... fun to see all those people look as they think you are going to flop and most people look since your are squeeling tires. I have been told that i have a broken strutt and people look at you weird when you tell them that its suppose to do that.

for the front i was debating a detroit but when i talked to people who had detroits in the front compared to a spool or welded i found not much difference. both push thru corners on the trail and most people say they cant tell the difference between a spool and detroint in the front (100% opposite for the rear)

they say the best is having rear drivetrain dissconnect if you run a spool in the front.

i would not have a DD with a spool.

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94 4Runner Truggy
60/14B, 3Link w/18" Air Shox
Chopped & Exo'd
42's on H1 Beadlocks
Pirate4x4 Build Thread
03 Tundra Crawler Hauler/Baja DD
3" Lift, Fiberglass Fenders
Prerunner Bumper, (3) 9" Lights

Rusty Davis

That's probably the best advice in this thread

Sorry if I'm hijacking this thread a little, but it was heading away from spools and welded 3rds anyways. Some of this is opinion, some is just plain fact. Either way I'll put my flame suit on just in case!

I know this is an old thread, but it's sticky'd for a reason. Yes, I've driven a vehicle with a welded diff (9"), yes I have had a trac lock(Isuzu D44), a Tru trac(in my Runner), and now a Detroit in the rear now that it's no longer my DD. I'd still have the Tru Trac if it weren't for 2 reasons- getting a DD and the douchebag that sold me the "brand spankin' new 3rd" wasn't set up properly; stripped the ring gear and I sold off the TT in order to fund another diff.

In all honesty- a good LSD is the 2nd best choice for a DD. I mean really- how much do you go off-road compared to on road driving. Sure, it's one hell of a rush off road, but it can be scary and down-right dangerous on road.
Besides, proper use of a good LSD and the e-brake can lock up the rear pretty well (aka a "poor man's locker").

I don't know about y'all but I'd rather spend $1k/year on things other than tires...considering there's soooooo many other upgrades to be done. Think about it- that winch bumper and winch you've been wanting can be had a lot quicker and will take you farther than any locker will Not to mention you can get one selectable locker installed for the price and save your tires to last at least 2 years.

As for the front- I personally have a lock-right (IFS) and while understeer is an understatement- I wouldn't have it any other way....unless I could afford a selectable locker- but no one and I mean NO ONE can argue that selectable lockers ~front or rear~ are the best choice - period. My reasoning for a front lunchbox locker (besides price) is that the front on my IFS seems to get air much quicker than the rear unless going downhill. Also- an autolocker will break free quicker to avoid breakage- especially once one is broken in. While I'm at it- I want to mention that I enjoy my IFS because- unlike all the hard trails everywhere else- I can go to Uwharrie Nat'l Forest (here in NC) and actually have some challenge. Once I go SAS Tellico will be the closest place to have a challenge...besides the new place down below Laurens, SC (the name slips my mind right now)


Good Day,
~R

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1994 4Runner 3.slow
Help me afford a Rear Bumper!
Items 4 Sale here and here

crawler#976

I recently sold the SLOYOTA.

And, after putting in over 50,000 miles of driving with a full spool, I'll stand by my original post 100%. Some of you seem to miss part of it...

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...down to the two Taco's, no more SloYota!

84crawling

I’m kind of in the middle on the welding of the spiders..Stock Yota ring, pinion, and spiders are heat treated..I have heard of people welding them and doing fine but also here of more people breaking down because of breaking welds that where done on top of oil, also welding to a heat treated metal doesn’t sound like a good idea I would think it would weaken the section you welded to? Just my pinion

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84 pickup x-cab, 22R,Rollbar,warn brush gard/winch,
Kc lights,31x10.50R15 Muds,Red top optima,Hi-lift,marlin crawler rear bumper,Rock Sliders,Safari Snorkle,and still building..

Faster Faster till the thrill of Speed is overcome by the fear of Death.

84toylover

I went through 2 welded rears that also had the side gears welded to the side covers (sorry not a technical term). I now have a set that has just the spiders welded to the the side gears and have been driving on that for over a year. (not a daily driver, more of a weekender and wheeler).

On another note, I had a samurai with a mini spool in the rear and I welded the front. I used to lock the passenger hub only and it helped the steering (off road only) and then lock in the driver side when I needed it. Once your rear is spooled or locked you can run in 4lo and not even lock in your front hubs for a cheap 2lo for most trails out there. And then you can tell all your buddies "I haven't even put it in 4 wheel drive yet" and really make them mad!

dayota

what if you drive 50% pavement, 25% gravel, and the rest off road. Should you weld your gear together or will it realy eat up tires on pavement quickly, maybe a locker?.

84toylover

It will eat up tires pretty quick on a daily driver. I have noticed the outer lugs on my swampers having some wear on the back tires (where the welded rear is). When you go around corners you chirp one tire which definitly causes increased wear.

4x4DemonWithin

"people kinda dont know what to think when they see a yota on 39s drift around a turn or u-way" ya that put a big ole grin on my face.

k so what is the cheapest route? i run open front and rear and constantly get stuck do to 1 tire fire. i also run used mud terrains with like no tread i right now have 5 different 31x10.50's on my yota with minimal tread, like 8/32 of an inch or something but not bald and they all have real good side wall grip knobby things sticking out the side of the tire witch is all my off road traction any ways.

so is a spool cheaper than a lunch box locker? will a luch box have any tire ware factor at all? cuz if it does ill just go with a spool anyways and deal with the tire replacement. i am broke as a joke but love to have fun so ya i drive a yota. if a lunch box is alot cheaper then i will prolly go with it but i would deff prefer a spool for the fun factor. yes its DD but i drive like a bat outta hell on and off road so i want to be sliding sideways thru the intersections

also i have a personal mechanic so labor isnt much of a factor but just to get an idea whats easier lunch box or spool or is it the same process?

oh and this is for the rear only dont got money for the front just have to deal with open.

but just for kicks if i had the money i would run a lunch box up front. becuase as far as i know if the hubs arent locked in i will be completley open up front and most importantly if i have only one side locked in only that side will grab and not the other not locked in side so i will have a good offroad turning radius and 3wd. just lock in the front disengaged hub as needed on the trail, for 4 wheel drive.

correct me if im wrong plz becuase as of my knowledge thats how a lunch box works up front.

so my dream set up would be lunch box up front and spool in the rear.
but ill prolly end up with just a lunch box or a spool in the rear witch ever is cheaper in parts and labor.

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We are the ones that will still remain when all is laid to waste! *88 4Runner bone stock+bore/cam* http://www.youtube.com/user/4x4DemonWithin

4Crawler

I think a spool would cost less than a lunch box locker (no moving parts, just a big hunk of steel), but they are a little harder to find. Install costs more with a spool, since you need to setup the gears again. You can always "lincoln lock" the differential (i.e. weld it), costs next to nothing and is basically a spool.

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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad
Gettin'Off 4WD Club

4x4DemonWithin

but just for kicks if i had the money i would run a lunch box up front. becuase as far as i know if the hubs arent locked in i will be completley open up front and most importantly if i have only one side locked in only that side will grab and not the other not locked in side so i will have a good offroad turning radius and 3wd. just lock in the front disengaged hub as needed on the trail, for 4 wheel drive.

correct me if im wrong plz becuase as of my knowledge thats how a lunch box works up front.

yes i know i am quoting my self but i made my mind up on the rest! im going to weld the rear end of my yota when i get my 86 iroc-z going! so i can save the tires a lil more! but my camaro has posi and it hooks up real nice so ill be eating tires anyways......but they are cheaper to replace on the camaro than the 4Runner!

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We are the ones that will still remain when all is laid to waste! *88 4Runner bone stock+bore/cam* http://www.youtube.com/user/4x4DemonWithin

4Crawler

Yes, w/ unlocked hubs up front, it makes no difference what you have in the front diff, open, LSD, locker, spool or no diff at all. Why? The hubs are free wheeling when unlocked. And yes, you can use 3-wheel drive, although the steering will be a little funky, as when the locked wheel is on the inside of the turn, it'll tend to cause understeer and when on the outside of the turn, it'll tend to oversteer a little.

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1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad
Gettin'Off 4WD Club

4x4DemonWithin

sweet means just more fun! and thanks for clarifying that up for me! any one ever not have a lunch box locker work when they really needed it to work?

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We are the ones that will still remain when all is laid to waste! *88 4Runner bone stock+bore/cam* http://www.youtube.com/user/4x4DemonWithin