4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You could use Longfield chromoly hub gears, I think they have a set to adapt IFS hubs to solid axle use. I put a set into my solid axle hubs to beef them up over the stock Aisin gears.

And yes, if you can rotate the axle, that might help e-brake cable clearance. I looked into that on mine, but as-is, I am only running something in the 2-3 degree shim on the axle, and the work of cutting off the perches and re-welding them 2-3 degrees rotated did not seem to be worth the effort and risk of damage to the housing. If I were not running a CV rear shaft, I suppose I could rotate the axle down more and possibly change that e-brake cable. I did try all 4 mounting positions of the caliper bracket to see if any were better, but the default position seemed to be the least bad.

I think on the Supra the calipers are mounted with the e-brake lever down and in front. That would be a good setup mechanically for the rear axle, but you would need to relocate the existing e-brake cables from on top and behind the axle to below and under the axle and then you have those cables hanging down under the leaf springs, not a good idea on the trail!

RBX

Thanks for the info guys.
Do I need locking hubs? I know it is an advantage, but can i add the locking hubs later?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You can use drive flanges, either stock FJ80 front drive flanges or any of the aftermarket ones. I first installed the FJ80 flanges then added some Long-geared SA hubs with the FROR ARP hub studs. Drive flanges are the strongest setup and also have the least amount of slop in them, since no moving parts.

RBX

Thanks for answering all my questions, i truly appreciate it.
So it looks like drive flanges are the way to go, so i can save a few $$ and get the locking hubs later.
When you say slop, what exactly do you mean?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Well, any time there is a moving spline to spline contact, there is a little bit of room to allow the two parts to slide together.

Drive flange has female spline, axle shaft has male flange, 1 contact, minimal play.

Hub has the same attachment to the axle, then the hub gear that locks the center of the hub/.spline to the outside of the hub. So 1 sliding contacts, probably at least twice the play.

RBX

Got it, thx

riddarunner

Did you get a price break out? Is it cheaper to just get the adapters and axles?

RBX

^^^ FROR will not sell the parts to the kit separately, unless you have an existing kit and broke something.
The basic kit IS different then the Supra kit, and to get the supra kit is $120 more.
So, no they won't break down the kit. Honestly, I can't warrant spending this much right now on a full float when I need so much other stuff for this truck first. I do need brakes which is why I was looking into this mod if I could do it in phases. Immgoing to order some loaded calipers and see if I can make my own mount.

pyrojoe22

I know this is off topic, but it's the best place I can think of to ask.

Does anyone know if the front wheel bearing kit from All Pro off road will work for both IFS and Toyota Solid axles? It says it does on the website, but the guy on the phone said he doesn't know. They have a great deal of only $40 per wheel on there. At Toyota, one bearing alone is $60+

ra33it

If all you want is a brake upgrade, you can buy brackets that will fit a pair of front calipers. Pull your fronts off, slap em on the brackets in the rear, and upgrade your fronts to v6 calipers with the fancy rotors...

I was actually planning on doing this, so I bought the brackets, however after the fact I decided to go all out and do the full float kit and keep my e-brake. I'll sell the brackets to you if you're interested, I bought them from 85excab.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Wheel bearings are the same but the seals are different.

RBX

Thanks, but I need to retain my e-brake and I have v6 calipers already.

RBX

I am digging this thread up again.

Roger or Wabbit, what are your opinions on the Supra brakes... I mean, are they giving enough stopping force/pressure/pedal feel? Would you use a different caliper if e-brake wasn't a concern? (Wabbit i saw you use a t-case break already)

Supra brakes are getting very scarce, and i am thinking of fabbing my own e-brake after installing some 2WD calipers on the solid rotors out back.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I did the FROR basic kit.
Toyota 4cyl IFS rear discs and tbrake kit.
This is an offroad conversion anyway IMO.
Supra calipers are hard to find and $$$.
I liked staying all Toyota for fittings, but much better options than the supra stuff IMO.

I just put all this together for a member here so we will see how he likes it

:wabbit2:

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

When I bought my kit, Supra was the only option. I bought the loaded calipers at the same time and they were not terribly expensive as I recall (I just shopped a number of rebuilt caliper places for the lowest overall price), given that I had no core to exchange. I can lock up the rear tires if needed but still need to install the manual prop. valve so I can dial down the back pressure a little. Minor nit is the upside down bleeder and the need to roll that caliper to the front to bleed it.

RBX

The Supra Calipers range in price individually from $50-$120, for casting # 1402, finding sites that have the stock they claim is another story. This was the first rear caliper with the emergency/parking brake offered on the Celica Supra, IIRC, 79-mid 80, but not 81 as many sites claim. The second caliper used is casting #1501, and has no provisions for an e-brake.
I may have found a set of calipers, but before i ordered i wanted to make sure the stopping/clamping force was sufficient. Since i have to order calipers, i want to make sure they work well, i can always install or fab a t-case brake.

Roger,
Could you have mounted the calipers so the bleed was at the top and the e-brake at the bottom? I guessing you explored that idea, just curious what the issue was.

thanks guys for your help

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Not really possible/desirable for that e-brake setup as the mechanism would be in front of and below the axle (which is likely where it is on the Supra (IRS) rear end. But having an e-brake cable hanging down under the axle on an off-road rig is not wise plus there is that big hunk of iron sticking out in front that gets in the way of the cable.

I'm still working on setting up the e-brake mechanism to work better and get it up and over the tall rear spring pack I run. I'll be adding a taller spacer off the e-brake lever and putting a heim joint at the top for the cable attachment. The heim should eliminate the binding that I am seeing with the linkage I now have.

RBX

Thanks for clearing that up.
It seems that no matter the caliper, some fab work needs to be done to get the e-brake to cooperate.

McBrat

if you are running coils instead of leaves, you can mount the Celica calipers with the bleeders in the up position. the ebrake connectors end up roughly even with the back of the axle tube, and should work with the stock cable/mounts (at least it looks thatway)... I'm going to try and use a '97 4runner ebrake set-up on mine...

McBrat

finally got around to this. confirmed. it works...

ebrake set-up from a '97 4Runner