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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sevierville, TN
Posts: 292
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slider install ?'s
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#2 (permalink) |
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Banned
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,370
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is there any possible way to get a picture of what you're describing so we can visualize better? if not, i'm sure someone else can still offer some good advice! bump!
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#3 (permalink) |
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Banned
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a pic would be the best way to help...but i say why not just hammer in the pinch weld?
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sevierville, TN
Posts: 292
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also sorry to ask, whats a bump? and i dont have the sliders with me at school...im in college three hours from my home, so i cant do it yet.... but ill try to describe it better....ok imagine looking directly at the side of the vehicle (its a 2nd gen)...it has no body lift, and the frame rails arent that visible below the body...the body has a pinch weld under the doors...if i put the slider leg tubing perpendicular to the frame rails (the way they should be attached) the top of the tubing hits the pinch weld under the doors, but the bottom of the tubing that should attach to the frame hangs a little bit below the frame....thus the prob....should i just notch the pinch weld to move up the tubing legs, or is that a bad idea?
I cant do the pics right now sorry |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Banned
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sorry i cant help ya. A bump is something you say when you want other people to look at it. It brings the thread to the top of the list, it also acts as post padding..LOL
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#6 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,835
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I had to notch the pinch weld on my old Americal Metal sliders. May as well do that because the slider mounting tubes are going to make dents in the pinch weld on their own, unless there is an inner bar running the length of the pinch weld. Or weld some mounting plates to the mounting tubes, sticking up above the tubing and then weld that to the frame (and let the tubes hang down below the frame far enough to clear the pinch weld.
The other option would be to bevel the mount tubes to allow them to angle downwards enough to clear the pinch weld. I have to do this on my 1st gen pickup sliders:
__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club Last edited by 4Crawler; 10-02-2005 at 08:04 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sevierville, TN
Posts: 292
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thanks guys...anything else? anyone else? not that i dont trust you 4crawler, just checkin everyone else or see what others did....
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#8 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: SF Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,835
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Or call up the shop or post on their web forum and ask them directly. I imagine they have had one of their sliders installed before:
Customer Service and Product Support
__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs r.c.brown@ieee.org TruckEditor@tlca.org Project: 4Crawler 4Crawler OffRoad Gettin'Off 4WD Club |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sevierville, TN
Posts: 292
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duh...good thinkin
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#10 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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I remember someone here notching their pinch weld to fit sliders. But you need more space than just barely making them fit because the body flexes as do the sliders when the entire weight of the truck is on them. If you think that you every might want a body lift I would do it now as it will make mounting the sliders a lot easier. Otherwise I think that Rogers idea of angling the mounting tubes down away from the pinch weld is a very good idea and would be easy to do with round sliders like you have.
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- Brad 2000 4Runner SR5 4x4 5spd 3" Revtek spacer, ARB RD-90 front | 3.5" Downey coils, E-locker rear | 285/75 16 BFG M/T | TJM T-17 | RB Sliderz | 1.5" RB BL | BudBuilt skid | 4.30s | SS Rear Bumper onetruth |
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