should i get 5.29s and spool the rear and aussie the front?
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What next for my 80 toy?
ok I took out my rear locked 80 on 33s yesterday, now im really hooked, im just not sure what i wanna do with it next. I would really like more low end. So should i get 5.29s and spool the rear and aussie the front? or should i get a 4.7 case? would the 5.29sgive me a better crawl ratio?
Or should i get a front bumper? i dont have the skills to do a front yet, but i have a wicked idea for the rear.
I have marlin sliders, plus the rear will be built after the bed bob and trim.
TIA
Or should i get a front bumper? i dont have the skills to do a front yet, but i have a wicked idea for the rear.
I have marlin sliders, plus the rear will be built after the bed bob and trim.
TIA
Last edited by Sonofmayhem; 10-09-2006 at 11:16 PM.
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Ok, well i think im gonna get either 5.29s or a crawler box. i will just build up the other ÅÅÅÅ later. but does anyone have the 4.7 marlin gears in their case? easy setup? like the ratio?
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The 4.7 swap isnt bad, but if i were you i would just go ahead and go dual cases right now. You get more gear ratios to choose from, you will get a longer front driveshaft out of it, and it allows you to grow into the setup easier in the future when you decide you want more gear. Price isnt a whole lot different either, it can actually be done cheaper if you know how to weld and dont mind doing some junkyard diving.
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#9
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dont you have to get a longer rear shaft when you do duals? Plus i dont feel like doing all the extra fab, im gonna need to do stuff to the front and rear bumpers. i think ill go with 4.7s, then later add a stock case if i cant handle it. Ike we should wheel sometime.
Thanks keep the responses coming
Thanks keep the responses coming
Last edited by Sonofmayhem; 10-09-2006 at 11:18 PM.
#10
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no, you need a shorter rear shaft, longer front. Your drive train gets longer.
I'm waiting on duals for the same reason.
Come wheeling up north on the 21'st. We'll come south for the next one.
I'm waiting on duals for the same reason.
Come wheeling up north on the 21'st. We'll come south for the next one.
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How is adding a crawler box cheaper? Even if you junk yard the box for $100 bucks, you still have to get an adaper $349, drive shaft mods $150ish, then possible a top shift conversion kit for $100. So your looking at $600-$700 bucks. 4.7:1 gears for the rear case are $399. Thats $300-$400 cheaper. That doesnt even include going 4.7 in the rear case. So the dual case is more money for only .4 lower in gear reduction, the only advantage is you can get 2lo w/out a twin stick, and you keep factory low range for faster stuff.
As far as upgrading later you can still add a crawler box later... just depends more money now or later...
And what are your current gears? you will get more bang for buck if you do a 4.7 than you will from 5.29's, even if you have 4.10's now.
I have been debating a crawler box or 4.7 in one case. Plain and simple the 4.7 is one case is much cheaper and easier...
As far as upgrading later you can still add a crawler box later... just depends more money now or later...
And what are your current gears? you will get more bang for buck if you do a 4.7 than you will from 5.29's, even if you have 4.10's now.
I have been debating a crawler box or 4.7 in one case. Plain and simple the 4.7 is one case is much cheaper and easier...
#12
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well, its not cheaper, that is for sure. I don't know why that guy said that either. And you don't want two cases with stock gears. I really think that is a waste. If you are going to do it, you might as well get the lowest you can get, and yet also retain stock low range, for driving along.
Just get the 4.7's for now, if you don't want to mess with fab. You can add the adapter later.
Just get the 4.7's for now, if you don't want to mess with fab. You can add the adapter later.
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well, its not cheaper, that is for sure. I don't know why that guy said that either. And you don't want two cases with stock gears. I really think that is a waste. If you are going to do it, you might as well get the lowest you can get, and yet also retain stock low range, for driving along.
Just get the 4.7's for now, if you don't want to mess with fab. You can add the adapter later.
Just get the 4.7's for now, if you don't want to mess with fab. You can add the adapter later.
IMO, you will go more places with both the front and rear locked and your engine will like you more on 5.29's. Personally, I think I would lock both the front and rear, then consider 4.7's.
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cool, well right now if i dont buy a bike then next week ill get gears and a spool, but thats the problem is right now i dont make enough to get gears, a locker and spool, so i think 400 bux against the 320 for gears + 200 for install kit+ 180 for spool + 250 for the aussie = 1000 bux compared to the 400 of the box. so when i start making more ill deff get some new gears and lockers.
#19
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With dual stock cases, you get a slightly BETTER (lower) crawl ratio IIRC. 5.198:1 as opposed to 4.7:1. So technically, you have a better crawl ratio with dual stock cases than 4.7's.
IMO, you will go more places with both the front and rear locked and your engine will like you more on 5.29's. Personally, I think I would lock both the front and rear, then consider 4.7's.
IMO, you will go more places with both the front and rear locked and your engine will like you more on 5.29's. Personally, I think I would lock both the front and rear, then consider 4.7's.
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Right, but its only slightly better. Sooo, for a slightly higher ratio, you don't have to screw with new crossmembers, driveshafts, and cutting a hole. If you are going dual, do one stock for stock lowrange, and one 4.7, so you get the effect of a 4speed case: 1:1, 2.28:1, 4.7:1, and 10.72:1