View Poll Results: Cheap Solid Axle Swap or ARB air locker
SAS
23
43.40%
Locker
30
56.60%
Voters: 53. You may not vote on this poll
SAS or Locker
#1
SAS or Locker
Now, before you say that I should get a locker before I get a SAS. My friends can help me for no money, plus one of them will sell me an axle for about $50!!! It's an oportunity that I won't ever have again. I can get a locker anytime I want, plus I have graduation money coming in. So, what do you guy's think?
#2
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There is no such thing as a cheap SAS. The $50 axle is only the beginning. You'll need shocks and custom shock mounts, steering, springs, installation kits, etc,
#3
Trust me, I know it's not even the beginning. I've priced it out, and it still won't be cheap, but it will be around the same price as the locker. It will be CHEAPER than what it'd cost if I had someone do the install, also the axle will be cheaper than a junkyard, not much but at least it's something.
Last edited by oly884; 06-02-2003 at 01:02 PM.
#4
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Maybe it's just me, but I would think that the locker would cost less. I don't know a whole lot about the SAS, but I bet the locker would cost less than $500 including labor if you had someone else do it. I think you can get a locker for like $200 - $250, right? It sounds like you may be able to do the install yourself. I don't see how an SAS could ever be that cheap. Here's what I would do, buy the axle for $50 and then buy the locker. That way you can use the axle later.
You may want to have some members who have done a SAS to post how much money it costed them. It would really suck to dive into that project and then run out of money.
Just my $.02
You may want to have some members who have done a SAS to post how much money it costed them. It would really suck to dive into that project and then run out of money.
Just my $.02
#6
If I go for a locker I'm going for an ARB air locker which is about $700 and the compressor which is $200. That's $900 right there. Install will be about 300-400, which puts me at 1200-1300. Next the seals that are leaky, along with the berings. around $200. Now I'm at $1,500.
Solid axle $50, fix up the axle along with gears around $400, SAS swap kit $300 from AOR, new steering from AOR $675, already have springs and drive shaft. Already have help for free because my friends want me to do a SAS very bad. That's about $1425, then sell the lift I have for about $300, along with the differential and misc. ifs parts ???
Edit: can't forget shocks and the mounts, around $250-300 for good shocks and the mounts.
Also, this is still COMPLETLY up in the air, I'm just getting ideas right now. The way I look at it, my friend won't hold on to the axle forever. I'm going to Montana for college so, I wouldn't be back untill next summer.
Solid axle $50, fix up the axle along with gears around $400, SAS swap kit $300 from AOR, new steering from AOR $675, already have springs and drive shaft. Already have help for free because my friends want me to do a SAS very bad. That's about $1425, then sell the lift I have for about $300, along with the differential and misc. ifs parts ???
Edit: can't forget shocks and the mounts, around $250-300 for good shocks and the mounts.
Also, this is still COMPLETLY up in the air, I'm just getting ideas right now. The way I look at it, my friend won't hold on to the axle forever. I'm going to Montana for college so, I wouldn't be back untill next summer.
Last edited by oly884; 06-02-2003 at 02:31 PM.
#7
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Originally posted by oly884
If I go for a locker I'm going for an ARB air locker which is about $700 and the compressor which is $200. That's $900 right there. Install will be about 300-400, which puts me at 1200-1300. Next the seals that are leaky, along with the berings. around $200. Now I'm at $1,500.
Solid axle $50, SAS swap kit $300 from AOR, new steering from AOR $675, already have springs and drive shaft. Already have help for free because my friends want me to do a SAS very bad. That's about $1025, then sell the lift I have for about $300, along with the differential and misc. ifs parts ??? That'll drop me below a grand, and even if there are somethings that I'm missing, it'll still be cheaper that doing the locker. Right?
If I go for a locker I'm going for an ARB air locker which is about $700 and the compressor which is $200. That's $900 right there. Install will be about 300-400, which puts me at 1200-1300. Next the seals that are leaky, along with the berings. around $200. Now I'm at $1,500.
Solid axle $50, SAS swap kit $300 from AOR, new steering from AOR $675, already have springs and drive shaft. Already have help for free because my friends want me to do a SAS very bad. That's about $1025, then sell the lift I have for about $300, along with the differential and misc. ifs parts ??? That'll drop me below a grand, and even if there are somethings that I'm missing, it'll still be cheaper that doing the locker. Right?
You may want to do the solid axle swap then put the lockers in when you regear for bigger tires.
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#8
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I voted locker
just seems like there will be more times when you'll be saying "damn i wish i had a locker" than "damn i wish i had done an SAS"
just seems like there will be more times when you'll be saying "damn i wish i had a locker" than "damn i wish i had done an SAS"
#9
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cheap?
one way to save a couple of bucks is using ford f-250 front shock mounts.I got mine for 20 bucks at wrecking yard. Could even make your own crossover and save more. just my .02
#10
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I used the F250 style as well but if you want these to accomdate high travel you'll need to mount them on top of the frame not on the side and they'll require gussetting. If you don't they'll fail over time. A cross-over like AOR uses (in my opinion) is overkill.
AOR doesn't make a setup like this for the V6 (I can't recall what motor is in the rig we've talking about.
AOR doesn't make a setup like this for the V6 (I can't recall what motor is in the rig we've talking about.
#11
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I'll vote for the SAS and WELD THE REAR CARRIER until you can afford a real locker! I had a Detroit in my truck prior to SAS'n it, and I routinely take my rig places now in 2x4 that required 4x4 w/ the IFS. Now the Detroit is in the front axle, and a full spool spins'm both out back.
I've been wheelin' pretty hard for 3 years now on my All Pro Hi-Steer system, and so far, I have had no, nada, zip, 0 (ZERO) damage done to tie rods. It also made a huge difference in bump steer compared to the original steering w/ 35" tires. During the years I've spent several hours at a time on trails repairing other guys bent up junk- Hi-Steer is a expensive but great modification.
later
Originally posted by upndair
........... A cross-over like AOR uses (in my opinion) is overkill..........
........... A cross-over like AOR uses (in my opinion) is overkill..........
later
#13
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Originally posted by BajaTaco
Mark, I think he meant the "crossover" shock mounts? (with a tube that goes over the engine and ties both towers together)...
Mark, I think he meant the "crossover" shock mounts? (with a tube that goes over the engine and ties both towers together)...
AOR uses a tubing crossover on thier shock towers - that's the part that I think is over kill except for desert runners that pound shocks hard. Typically on the trail as slow speeds, shocks don't really work that hard that I'd be worried about tearing the mounts off the frame or bending the mounts.
I do know one guy that this happened to but he drives competitively and breaks even more stuff than I do!
Last edited by upndair; 06-03-2003 at 12:58 PM.
#14
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my bad I got stuck on steering stuff-
yeah, the over engine mount for a trail rig is definately over kill. I'm using the All Pro hoops and 12.5' travel shocks and have had no problems. I've whomped on it pretty hard too- it's been airborn a few times at high and slow speeds.
later
yeah, the over engine mount for a trail rig is definately over kill. I'm using the All Pro hoops and 12.5' travel shocks and have had no problems. I've whomped on it pretty hard too- it's been airborn a few times at high and slow speeds.
later
#15
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Originally posted by crawler#976
my bad I got stuck on steering stuff-
yeah, the over engine mount for a trail rig is definately over kill. I'm using the All Pro hoops and 12.5' travel shocks and have had no problems. I've whomped on it pretty hard too- it's been airborn a few times at high and slow speeds.
later
my bad I got stuck on steering stuff-
yeah, the over engine mount for a trail rig is definately over kill. I'm using the All Pro hoops and 12.5' travel shocks and have had no problems. I've whomped on it pretty hard too- it's been airborn a few times at high and slow speeds.
later
I liked the look and style of the AP hoop, it just wasn't going to quite fit my needs and they didn't offer anything to go up through the fender. In fact, Chris told me to find the F250 style mount instead :o)
#16
So, it's a tie. That helps, but really I go back and forth day to day. I really don't know what I'm going to do. Heck, I might even take the money and put it into some engine mods, along with some nice accesories.
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OK, here's my advice if you need a tie-breaker...
If you plan to wheel the wee-wee out of the truck, I vote for the SAS. You can always add the locker and gears at a later date and probably find someone to stuff them in your diffs fairly easily. But it's not every day that you come across the means and the opportunity to do an SAS. With friends helping you - all the more better.
BUT, and this is a big BUT you had better evaluate all of the parts and what they will cost you, down to the last nut. All of the little things add up fast. I think you will be hard pressed to do it for $1500 or there-abouts. If you do, there will be alot of things you will feel you need to add, and you will start missing them early on... (like tires, and gears)
If you plan to wheel the wee-wee out of the truck, I vote for the SAS. You can always add the locker and gears at a later date and probably find someone to stuff them in your diffs fairly easily. But it's not every day that you come across the means and the opportunity to do an SAS. With friends helping you - all the more better.
BUT, and this is a big BUT you had better evaluate all of the parts and what they will cost you, down to the last nut. All of the little things add up fast. I think you will be hard pressed to do it for $1500 or there-abouts. If you do, there will be alot of things you will feel you need to add, and you will start missing them early on... (like tires, and gears)
#18
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I would rather have a locked IFS than an open solid axle assuming identical gears and tire size.
Going from an open IFS rig to an open solid axle rig is only a moderate difference.
Going from an open IFS rig to an open solid axle rig is only a moderate difference.
#19
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
I would rather have a locked IFS than an open solid axle assuming identical gears and tire size.
Going from an open IFS rig to an open solid axle rig is only a moderate difference.
I would rather have a locked IFS than an open solid axle assuming identical gears and tire size.
Going from an open IFS rig to an open solid axle rig is only a moderate difference.
#20
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I don't think of it as throwing away because I will likely get a couple of years out of my IFS ARB and gears if I swap and then recoup some money in the sale.
If everyone who wheeled an open diff rig knew that they were going to swap eventually, then there would be no reason to have intermediate rigs.
I like the truck to grow and get better slowly so that I can learn about myself and the truck.
Going from a stock, open IFS rig on street tires to a doudle locked solid axle on 35's with a crawler is a huge jump. I know that I could not handle all the new found potential in the rig.
If everyone who wheeled an open diff rig knew that they were going to swap eventually, then there would be no reason to have intermediate rigs.
I like the truck to grow and get better slowly so that I can learn about myself and the truck.
Going from a stock, open IFS rig on street tires to a doudle locked solid axle on 35's with a crawler is a huge jump. I know that I could not handle all the new found potential in the rig.