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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 40
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Removal of bracket kit and what to do next
Hey YT'ers. I'm looking to remove my pro comp kit so that my truck will have a better center of gravity and I don't think I need or want this much lift any more. I'm going down to 32 x11.5's anyway from 33 x 12.5's. I've searched and looked at what folks have done with BL's and BJ spacers and like what I see.
What I'm looking to do so that I still have some lift and added function(more travel, lower COG) is to add 1.5" BJ spacers and a 1 inch body lift post bracket removal. Has anyone done this combination and if they have any pics, that would be awesome. I'd like to hear from anyone that has removed their bracket kit and not gone straight to a long travel or SAS. I can't afford to do the long travel right now since I'm gonna do a 3.4 very soon. So I guess my question is, does this seem like a good interim setup to gain better function on and off road with the combination of more travel, lower COG, strength, and most importantly looks? I'm honestly not fond of the idea of having to change my fenders for a long travel anyway, so if I can make this setup look like I want and function better in the long run than my bracket kit, I may stick with it. It's not a pure trail truck anyway so I need it to be functional for everything.
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'91 4x4 3dot slow Used to be a six cylinder, now a 5 cylinder! Wannabe Volvo I guess... 3.4 Swap needed badly. Other rides: 2002 BMW 330i |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 40
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No thoughts or opinions on losing the bracket lift?
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'91 4x4 3dot slow Used to be a six cylinder, now a 5 cylinder! Wannabe Volvo I guess... 3.4 Swap needed badly. Other rides: 2002 BMW 330i |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: knoxville, tn
Posts: 1,624
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I dunno on the earlier ifs, but on newer trucks you have to cut a support to install the drop bracket, which you would have to weld in upon returning it to stock. Which it being cut and rewelded back in makes it a lot less stronger and you would need to brace and make it stronger.
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97 4runner, 2.7 5speed 4wd, 4.556, 255/85/16 Maxxis Bighorns rear diff breather, 4 hella 500's driving, sliders, wilderness rack custom bumper arb locked rear toytec adjustables, ome 891's, bilstein 5125 manual hubs broken front and rear swaybars My Profile |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: castle rock, wa
Posts: 165
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ya on the earlier ones you still have to cut the support
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95 4runner, 5 in tg sas and rear leaf swap, chopped, mx6 reservoir shocks, 35x13.50x15 toyo mt's, all pro front bumper, mile marker se9500c, rear tube bumper, hella 500's, rock lights, optima red top, glass fenders, tg 5.29's, lockright rear, detroit hp front |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 40
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Thanks for the feedback. You're right, so you guys think I'll have to weld that whole portion or just bracing it will be sufficient?
__________________
'91 4x4 3dot slow Used to be a six cylinder, now a 5 cylinder! Wannabe Volvo I guess... 3.4 Swap needed badly. Other rides: 2002 BMW 330i |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 2,931
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I removed a bracket kit. Granted, I did not install bj spacers or a body lift. I definitely appreciate the lower stance on and off road.
As for the cut mounts, mine was very minimal. I only lost one bolt hole on each side. Either way you go, I recommend getting a weld on truss for the rear. Sonoran Steel and Total Chaos make good ones. Mine was custom made locally. Don't worry about the cut parts, just weld in a truss, you need it anyway. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Plainfield, IL
Posts: 1,305
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I had a bracket kit and will never run one again. I had to cut one tab on the front of the IFS by the diff if memory serves. It could be easily remade and welded on.
The lower CG improves suspension flex and you don't have to even give up the 33's if you don't want. Frank
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1994 4runner, 3.0, auto, 5.71's, Truetrac (rear), 33's, BJ spacers, Coil spacers, air shocks, D-ring anchors, 4Crawler F/R swaybar discos, Marlin rear bumper. www.sdori.com |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Mine I think is only missing a bolt hole on only one side (2 flanges) but I'm sure I can get it reinforced. I was thinking of doing the 32's just for speed. It will be even better with the 3.4 under the hood too. If I'm gonna go faster, I think I wanna be lower on road and off you know... I like the idea of more flex, how does that translate from being closer to the ground? Thanks again guys for the comments. ![]()
__________________
'91 4x4 3dot slow Used to be a six cylinder, now a 5 cylinder! Wannabe Volvo I guess... 3.4 Swap needed badly. Other rides: 2002 BMW 330i |
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