Catamount

04 Tundra, 4x4, 2UZ, Auto. The drive belt installed and aligned properly. After starting engine and running the drive belt jumps the grooves towards the inside of the crankshaft pulley and starts to fray. Suggestions on inspecting the tension pulley. Also this has been discovered while working on a hard starting problem associated with the crank and cam shaft sensors. I have a P0335 and P0340 code. I changed the crankshaft sensor due to low ohms. The cam sensor checks out ok. The engine finally started after multiple attempts. It idled and drove fine. After parking I noticed the drive belt shredding which I replaced. After much effort started the engine a second time. The belt ran true while idling no noticeable wobble or noise from pulleys. After driving a short distance then parking I let it idle for a time and noticed bits of belt on the ground. Sure enough the belt had slipped one groove and was rubbing the inside of the crank pulley. Why would the crank pulley be farther out than the others.

Catamount

I removed the top timing belt covers and put a dowel down the #1 cylinder to check TDC and discovered the crankshaft pulley bolt was merely hand tight and the pulley timing marker was about 15 degrees past TDC. Apparently 5 months ago the mechanic who did the T-belt didn't torque the bolt down. I took the Pulley off and a scar indicated it shifted forward enough to slip past the wood-ruff key about 1/8". The tone ring was installed correctly, the T-Belt is in good shape and lined up true. Barely any of the W-key is forward of the Tone ring and the T-ring isn't centered over its sensor. It seems the crank sprocket is forward and or the W-key is set back. The W-key doesn't look sheared off. I used a large socket and tried to tap the crank sprocket back but it doesn't move. I'm wondering if torquing the pulley back on will seat everything back in place or do I need to take the C-sprocket off. There is barely any W-key to go in Key way of pulley.

Catamount

Initially I didn't want to mess with taking the T-belt off since its new, undamaged and everything syncs. Because the 2UZ is an interference engine, I'm so close and don't want to repeat the protocol, I feel it best to go ahead, remove the C-sprocket and re-seat it with a new W-key (if sheared). Only having several hundred miles the T-belt still has its timing marks. Should I re-install it using the factory marks or make new marks where its now at? The W-key indeed is separate from the shaft and sprocket and replaceable, the dealer has it in-stock The pulley key way is undamaged.