Texas_Ace

EDIT: IT RUNS! Skip to page 3 for video of first start

Edit: Skip to page 10 for Dyno results and video of dyno

Ok, after bragging in the other thread I am going to make this thread as pretty much the real time Stage-2 Build up of my truck thread that ya’ll have been waiting for. So stay tuned for everything I am going to do to my already HOT HOT truck (I need some lights though, I think that would look good).

First a rundown of what has happened so far to get people caught up, then what I need now.

I got one heck of a deal on a 1st gen Supercharger (gray model), a whole $325!! The nose bearing was supposedly bad on it but when I got it in, I could not feel ANY play or roughness at all. But since the seller said it needed the bearing I decided to replace it anyways and since I got such a deal I could afford it.

Here is when I got it:








So I am going to rebuild it with a $75 kit off ebay Eaton Rebuild kit on Ebay

So I started taking it apart to see what it looked like inside before I committed to getting a rebuild kit. If I found something bad I was going to send it in to have it professionally rebuilt.

Here is the SC after I drained most of the oil (which was totally clear and in perfect condition. It was also all there as well) and started to take the bolts that hold the nose on out:






So after I got the bolts out I tried lightly tapping the nose to see if it would come off with a rubber hammer. It didn’t really move so I thought maybe the pully was holding it on, so I used my impact wrench to take it off.

Yes, I forgot to take a picture with the nose still on



So I got the nose off and looked inside, and was surprised to see it looked to be in PERFECT condition. You see it 5 seconds after I got it off. It ws that clean to start with. No metal shavings at all and the coupling was still tight (from what I have read that is the first thing to go).





So after seeing this I am planning on rebuilding the SC myself and spending the $$$ on something else. But I can’t figure out how to get the Nose shaft out, but I will address that in another post.

Overall I am VERY VERY happy with the SC and can’t wait to get it installed! I just wish I could find a manual for the 1st gen (of even a 2nd gen) SC so I could see all the install procedure so I can make sure I have everything I need before I try to install it.

My plans are to do all the fuel mods and all the other goodies to get this working right. URD 7th injector is in my future as well as all the other goodies to get the most out of this. I am hoping for 250RWHP at the wheels when I am done, we will see. I am going to get it dyno’ed after I am done for sure and depending on price before as well.

I will post some of the other goodies I have got some far tomorrow, for now I have a question in the next post

EDIT! Price list so far!

Supercharger: 325
Rebuild: 400
URD 7th: 800
URD 2.2 Pully: 95
OBD Interface: 30
AEM AFM Gauge: 225
Boost Gauge: 30
URD O2 cal: 250
Mics little things: 250

----------------------

Total so far: $2405

Not too bad so far, and baring anything major should be the final cost for the SC. I am VERY happy with the price, now to get it installed...

So subscribe if you want to keep tabs on my off-roading MONSTER! (i mean it is already a monster, adding a SC and all the other stuff i am going to do will make it something bigger and badder....... i know!......... A Hillary!)

Texas_Ace

Ok, now my first of what will i am sure be plenty of Questions. How do you get the nose shaft out of the housing to replace the bearings?

I think you are supposed to tap it out, what i don't know is which dirrection you are supposed to tap it, from the pulley side into the SC? Or from the inside out towards the Pulley?

I have tapped it both ways but it doesn't move, and yes i have the snap ring taken out.

olharleyman

I think pressing it out would be the smarter idea that way you have nice even pressure all the thru the removal and a lot less chance of scaring the shaft or shaft housing. just my .02

Fo_SheeZy

Man, I want a supercharger...

gilby4runner

not to be a jerk but are you sure you wont be better off having the pros rebuild it? I would rather have the comfort of knowing that it was done right and not questioning it.

mt_goat

Here's some instructions on replacing the nose for a 2nd gen, I see you already have it off but it may help some putting it back on (torque specs or something):
http://www.trdsparks.com/install/PTR29-35042inst.pdf

mt_goat

Here's some instructions for a M90:

http://rollingperformance.com/snoutrebuild.htm

Did you read though all those links I gave you in the first thread?

https://www.yotatech.com/50834174-post10.html

X-AWDriver

I agree that if there are parts of the install/rebuild you are iffy on you should let a pro do it since this is a major upgrade and you don't want to "ef" it up.

Also the headers are a bitch to install and IMO aren't worth the trouble or the cost to have somebody install them for you since the perf gains are minimal even with an SC from a couple of dynos I'd seen plus if they do crack it's going to be a PITA to fix.

Just something to consider.

mt_goat

X3, especially when you consider that if the SCer blows apart small metal parts can be sucked straight into the engine ruining the whole engine.

mt_goat

I can't remember the exact reason now but I've heard not to use an impact wrench to remove the pulley. I've been using a chain wrench with rubber wrapped around the pulley to hold the pulley while turning the nut with a wrench.

Texas_Ace

The reason I am not going to do that is simply the $$$. For them to do the nose it would cost $250, but after asking them about it they said it is not that hard. Now if I had to get into the roots Then I would send it in without even thinking about it. But the nose it easy and there is not much you can really mess up that would kill your engine if you do it wrong. Plus it is either have them rebuild the whole thing OR get the URD 7th, not both.

Do do I….;-)

You are not a jerk, I want any and all comments. First thing people will tell you about me, I can take the good and the bad. Would I LOVE to have the pros rebuild it? YES! Can I afford that and to get the 7th? No. As I said above the nose rebuild is pretty easy and not much you can really mess up as long as you take your time.

You know, it was so late when I was out working on it that I totally forgot about those links you posted since they were on a different page. I will have to go back and read through those.

Read above for the rebuild, if it was more then the nose and it didn’t look SOOO nice inside I was fully planning on sending it in. But it just looks so good I doubt they would even need to get inside. I mean if I spin the roots by hand and let them free wheel they will spin 6+ full times before stopping. There is ZERO play or roughness in the roots part of the SC and the nose even feels pretty good, just doing that because the seller said it needed to be done.

After looking at the condition and talking to the seller it looks like this was on the truck until about 50K when a mechanic said that he would need to replace the nose bearing pretty soon and he wanted better MPG. So he just took it off. It is quite clean and looks to have been taken care of.

Now for the headers, only reason I go them was because they were $70. No way would I have spent $300+ on a set. For $70 I figure I will chance them working and if they leak I have a REAL good muffler shop I know that can fix anything for cheap too. It is a gamble I will admit, I just could not pass up the deal.

Read above, yes I agree and was planning on sending it in but it is in so good of a condition I just can’t see a reason to possibly waste my $$$. I will see what happens with this gamble in the long run. Lucky for me the roots sound/feel in perfect condition and me screwing up the nose will not hurt my engine other then snapping a belt. So I think I am pretty safe this time. Only time will tell.

Well to late now, but I can’t think of a reason that taking the bolt off with an impact wrench would be bad, now putting it back on, that could be a problem and I was not planning to do that. I just could not figure out a way to losen it. I tried everything in my tool box to hole the pulley but the only thing that would work was a vise and I didn’t want to use that.



Thanks for all the comments/help so far everyone!

Texas_Ace

Ok, just read through those threads and though there is a lot fo good info i could not figure out which way i am supposed to press the nise shaft out still.

I think i am just going to have a local shop press it for me but i need to know from what side to have them press.

Texas_Ace

Ok, quick update.

I called magnason about a rebuild due to me selling a paintball gun on ebay and having a little extra cash and i have not bought the bearings yet.

So i removed the Supdercharger from the housing and decided to send it in for them to look at and hopfully just do the bearings.

I looked at the rotors (forgot to take before pictures, darn it) and they looked perfect and it spins fine so here is hoping for the best. If it is just the bearings it is only going to cost about $250 - $350.



Ok, now for something else. I actually started really monitering my gas milage the other day. Since i have had my truck i have had a full tank maybe a handful of times due to high gas prices i usually just have enough to get me where i am going. So i have never really been able to find out my milage.

Well i filled it up all the way and now that i am actually paying attention it is quite shocking. I have driven 30 miles and from a full tank (1 click at the pump) i am already down to the first hash mark on the fuel gauge! This just seems like outragesly bad milage. And i have been going easy on the peldel even.

I am going to drive 100 miles then fill up again and calculate my actual milage but is this even close to right for most of ya'll??

hotlavaaaa

I experience the same thing. I think it's just our fuel gauges being inaccurate. If it was accurate that would mean you burned over 4 gallons in 30 miles which I can't see happening. I would say drive as many miles as you can before filling up and calculating your mileage, just to make sure it's semi-accurate.

Texas_Ace

Thats what i plan on doing, it depends on how fast i get the supercharger ready to go on. i am going to fill up right before that with 93 octane and want to check my mileage then.

But at least it looks like it is not right. I know i could not think of a way for it to really burn that much, even if it was ubber rich.

scuba

it may be the gauge being innaccurate, it may be the auto tranny ??
OR BOTH ?!?!
but you have a nice truck, good luck with the supercharger

blarchitect

Same thing happened to me when the tank was half full. I did a couple trips through town, stop start traffic mind you, and the tank dropped nearly a full notch. Total mileage each way could only have been 4-5 miles.

Texas_Ace

My best guess is the gauge, even with an auto, i can't think of a way for it to get 8mpg witha 3.4 v6?? Is that even possible with rather sedate driving and no idleing? Has to be the gauge. When i install my new fuel pump with the 7th, i am going to check the float in the tank and see what it looks like.

Well at least it looks like it just might be the gauge. Guess only time will tell.

Texas_Ace

Got in some toys today!

Got the headers in and they look great! sure they are not the best design around but for $70 i am VERY happy with the quality. The steel really looks to be stainless and the welds looks good and sealed. And overall i am quite happy with the quality.

Plus they look like they are going to flow much better than stock.





Now i have my High-Amp alternator. I got it from http://stores.ebay.com/ACE-ALTERNATORS-AND-STARTERS

It looks real nice, i will see how it works after i install it.

dbcx

Where did you get the headers?