Daneums

I got incredibly lucky on a random trip to the pick and pull yesterday, and I returned this morning to pull it. I had just gone there to waste time. I'm still in shock that I got it.





complete rear e locker axle, e locker ecu, and front diff for $416.86.

My rear bumper is now on the back burner.
Hopefully I will be able to test the locker in the next couple of days. If all is good, I'll start taking the axles, 3rd, and everything off. I'll get the housing sandblasted and painted and get everything installed.

If anybody wants to help me by sharing links on install, it would be appreciated. I also need to make sure the housing isn't bent. Any tips or advice is welcome.
What is best way to bench test the locker?

Daneums

Now I just need to make sure it works.
Can anyone confirm this?


thanks for all the info boys, locker works great! here's what i found on 1 of the links. this is the safe way to test it without fear of jamming it:

[1] [2] [ ] <----- 5 pin plug on the diff, blank one is in the upper right corner.


[3] [4] [5]

"to lock the unit, put the alligator clip across pin 3 and pin 1. Apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 2. While the unit is transitioning from the unlocked to the locked state, pin 3 is connected to pin 5, and so pin 1 receives +12v. Once the unit determines that it has moved far enough to be locked, pin 3 becomes disconnected from pin 5, pin 1 no longer receives +12v and so the motor stops."

"Likewise, to unlock the unit, simply put the alligator clip across pins 2 & 4 and apply +12v to pin 5 and ground pin 1. Once the unit is unlocked, the connection between pins 4 & 5 is broken, and pin 2 no longer receives +12v."
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I've been searching for a way to test it, but most threads link this site, but the page is gone.

http://carterswebsite.com/4runner/mods/locker/

Daneums

Axles set up for rebuild.
-new seals, bearings, and brake shoes


I'm also going to do new LBJ and CV axles