Baby Beast 2-1999 4Runner
02-23-2012, 10:48 AM
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Baby Beast 2-1999 4Runner
I'm new to this generation truck. I've built up a first gen, and started a truggy.
I'm returning to the basics to have a reliable DD for camping, wheeling, hunting, and all around usefulness.
I purchased this 1999 SR5 4runner after many months of searching in November, 2011:
I purchased this for several reasons:
High Mileage brought the price down significantly=more money for mods.
Mileage was done my an old lady driving up and down the front range. Virtually no offroad miles.
Full service records indicate that it had regular service for it's whole life and was very well maintained.
The interior is clean, and cloth, not leather, which is my preference.
Most importantly, it is a 5 speed with a rear locker, which is also my preference for driving.
I removed the running boards and ran it stock for a few months.
I'm returning to the basics to have a reliable DD for camping, wheeling, hunting, and all around usefulness.
I purchased this 1999 SR5 4runner after many months of searching in November, 2011:
I purchased this for several reasons:
High Mileage brought the price down significantly=more money for mods.
Mileage was done my an old lady driving up and down the front range. Virtually no offroad miles.
Full service records indicate that it had regular service for it's whole life and was very well maintained.
The interior is clean, and cloth, not leather, which is my preference.
Most importantly, it is a 5 speed with a rear locker, which is also my preference for driving.
I removed the running boards and ran it stock for a few months.
02-23-2012, 10:52 AM
#2
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
I first removed the fender flares, because I didn't really like the way they looked. I may color match them and re install down the road, but I'm not sure yet.
I purchased some real tires for it, 265/75R16 MT/R Kevlars, and took it out wheeling in the snow, which was only snowy part of the way.
However, half way through this trip (new years day) I fell coming down a hill and broke my ankle. Someone else had to drive myself and my truck off the trail, and to an ER. It took a VERY long time to get down.
It also put everything else on hold for a while.
I purchased some real tires for it, 265/75R16 MT/R Kevlars, and took it out wheeling in the snow, which was only snowy part of the way.
However, half way through this trip (new years day) I fell coming down a hill and broke my ankle. Someone else had to drive myself and my truck off the trail, and to an ER. It took a VERY long time to get down.
It also put everything else on hold for a while.
02-23-2012, 11:04 AM
#3
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
At this point, I have done a lot of research into suspension. I talked with DirtCO, as I really admire his build, and weighed my options.
I purchased a 3" ish kit from TOYTEC, using a set of 5100 front shocks with 3 position adjustability, using a snap ring. I did not like the idea of having threaded shocks on the truck, as it sees a lot of MagChlor, and other junk that would freeze up the threads in no time at all.
I also added a set of their 620 lb Eibach springs, to see how they ride and flex, as well as a diff drop kit for the front diff.
For the rear I chose a set of Old Man Emu 890 springs, with a set of Bilstein 5150 shocks. Hopefully these will ride level on the truck.
I am waiting on Sonoran Steel as they are out at the Chile Challenge right now, to see if they still have their adjustable panhard bar. I may just weld up my own, but right now, my time is limited, as I am in Graduate School, so I will likely just buy the SS one to make things go.
After that, I will be bending up some sliders for the truck, and building a rear bumper. Likely I will add a tire carrier, so that will be nice. The rear bumper will also replace the factory trailer hitch which reduces the rear clearance by 6 inches and is a horrendous rock anchor.
For the front, I will either go with a Tacoma Bar from ARB, which I like a lot, or just building my own. I really like the looks of the Taco bar, but they are pretty common, which I try to avoid just to look a bit different from the next guy.
For skids, I am still unsure. I would like to try some Delrin, which is light, and quite strong, but expensive.
The other issue I have is tires.
For now, I think I'll stick with 32's, but 315's are really good looking on a 3rd gen. I just don't know if the extra work is worth it. Plus, I haven't decided what gears to run, as my long term goal is to supercharge this motor, and possibly rebuild it at the same time. I don't know if you can avoid cutting, and there isn't much room to remove metal out of the back fenders on these.
We'll see.
Anyway, the lift should be going on in the next week or two, depending on the Panhard situation. After that, some interior mods, and then bumpers and sliders.
I purchased a 3" ish kit from TOYTEC, using a set of 5100 front shocks with 3 position adjustability, using a snap ring. I did not like the idea of having threaded shocks on the truck, as it sees a lot of MagChlor, and other junk that would freeze up the threads in no time at all.
I also added a set of their 620 lb Eibach springs, to see how they ride and flex, as well as a diff drop kit for the front diff.
For the rear I chose a set of Old Man Emu 890 springs, with a set of Bilstein 5150 shocks. Hopefully these will ride level on the truck.
I am waiting on Sonoran Steel as they are out at the Chile Challenge right now, to see if they still have their adjustable panhard bar. I may just weld up my own, but right now, my time is limited, as I am in Graduate School, so I will likely just buy the SS one to make things go.
After that, I will be bending up some sliders for the truck, and building a rear bumper. Likely I will add a tire carrier, so that will be nice. The rear bumper will also replace the factory trailer hitch which reduces the rear clearance by 6 inches and is a horrendous rock anchor.
For the front, I will either go with a Tacoma Bar from ARB, which I like a lot, or just building my own. I really like the looks of the Taco bar, but they are pretty common, which I try to avoid just to look a bit different from the next guy.
For skids, I am still unsure. I would like to try some Delrin, which is light, and quite strong, but expensive.
The other issue I have is tires.
For now, I think I'll stick with 32's, but 315's are really good looking on a 3rd gen. I just don't know if the extra work is worth it. Plus, I haven't decided what gears to run, as my long term goal is to supercharge this motor, and possibly rebuild it at the same time. I don't know if you can avoid cutting, and there isn't much room to remove metal out of the back fenders on these.
We'll see.
Anyway, the lift should be going on in the next week or two, depending on the Panhard situation. After that, some interior mods, and then bumpers and sliders.
02-28-2012, 08:35 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Summit County, Colorado
Posts: 1,441
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Looks like a good start 
Toytec just started making an adjustable panhard bar, but they use heim joints. I don’t really like the idea of using a heim joints in the harsh conditions we have here in Colorado, I would just wait for the SS panhard bar but that’s just my opinion.
As for tires; if it wasn’t for the deep snow wheeling I do, I would put a lot of thought into the KM2 255/85/16 (It’s pretty much a 34x10.5x16). Here is a link to Scotty’s old 4Runner, start at post 32. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...03/index2.html They are tall and offer good clearance, but since they are skinny they will require less trimming, tuck into the fender wells better and handle better on the road.
Toytec just started making an adjustable panhard bar, but they use heim joints. I don’t really like the idea of using a heim joints in the harsh conditions we have here in Colorado, I would just wait for the SS panhard bar but that’s just my opinion.
As for tires; if it wasn’t for the deep snow wheeling I do, I would put a lot of thought into the KM2 255/85/16 (It’s pretty much a 34x10.5x16). Here is a link to Scotty’s old 4Runner, start at post 32. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...03/index2.html They are tall and offer good clearance, but since they are skinny they will require less trimming, tuck into the fender wells better and handle better on the road.
03-02-2012, 10:36 AM
#6
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Looks like a good start
Toytec just started making an adjustable panhard bar, but they use heim joints. I don’t really like the idea of using a heim joints in the harsh conditions we have here in Colorado, I would just wait for the SS panhard bar but that’s just my opinion.
As for tires; if it wasn’t for the deep snow wheeling I do, I would put a lot of thought into the KM2 255/85/16 (It’s pretty much a 34x10.5x16). Here is a link to Scotty’s old 4Runner, start at post 32. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...03/index2.html They are tall and offer good clearance, but since they are skinny they will require less trimming, tuck into the fender wells better and handle better on the road.
Toytec just started making an adjustable panhard bar, but they use heim joints. I don’t really like the idea of using a heim joints in the harsh conditions we have here in Colorado, I would just wait for the SS panhard bar but that’s just my opinion.
As for tires; if it wasn’t for the deep snow wheeling I do, I would put a lot of thought into the KM2 255/85/16 (It’s pretty much a 34x10.5x16). Here is a link to Scotty’s old 4Runner, start at post 32. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...03/index2.html They are tall and offer good clearance, but since they are skinny they will require less trimming, tuck into the fender wells better and handle better on the road.
Thanks!
Well, I ordered the SS panhard. One, Toytec has the panhard on their site, but when I was down at their store, they said that they didn't actually have them yet.
I am starting on the lift this weekend.
One thing I am going back and forth on still is replacement parts.
I ordered a whole slew of stuff for the front (camber bolts, shock bolts, ball joints, tie rods, etc...) to replace parts after reading some horror stories about ball joint failures, and also my own experience with frozen cam bolts and alignments. However, at $500 my cost, I'm hesitant to put them on if the parts aren't showing signs of slop, at least the ball joints and tie rods.
I'm usually a pretty maintenance obsessive guy because I believe it cuts down on trail breakage. That said, if its not worn or showing slop, I don't know that I'm gaining much.
It also cuts into the budget for my winch and steel for the bumpers.
I'll update with lift progress over the weekend.
Trending Topics
03-02-2012, 12:27 PM
#9
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Ah yes, I too hate these bumpers. I have to finish a few house projects and then the welder, bender, and plasma come out and the fat-lip goes a way.
03-02-2012, 03:51 PM
#11
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
As for tires; if it wasn’t for the deep snow wheeling I do, I would put a lot of thought into the KM2 255/85/16 (It’s pretty much a 34x10.5x16). Here is a link to Scotty’s old 4Runner, start at post 32. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f200...03/index2.html They are tall and offer good clearance, but since they are skinny they will require less trimming, tuck into the fender wells better and handle better on the road.
I also like the sidewall a lot better. The TrXus Mt's are also a great snow tire, but the 2 ply sidewall, and long wait are not worth it IMO. But they also come in a 255/85.
Part of me is so tempted to hang an FJ80 axle with a stock 80 suspension under this thing, and run 35's, and call it good. I have to keep reminding myself: Not a rock truck. Just a trail truck. But its hard.
03-02-2012, 03:53 PM
#12
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Also, if you get rid of the running boards, there is not cover for the bottom rear of the front fender flares, so you have to ghetto rig the old plastic from the fender flare's on.
03-04-2012, 04:47 PM
#13
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
The lift is on.
All in all, I was fairly disappointed with the Toytec lift.
I installed the rear first. Everything came off fine, and I installed the OME 890 coils in the rear. Then, for the rear shocks, Toytec uses some brackets and a double bushing style shock.
This would have been fine, except that the lower bushing was far to small for even a cleaned up shock stud. I had to drill out the bushing just to get it on.
The other issue here is that I have all of 4 inches of uptravel at ride height in the shock, and about 6 or seven on the bumps, which means that, since the axle will be arrested by the shocks and not the bumps, the shocks will blow out very rapidly. Not acceptable for the cost of those shocks.
I'm waiting on my panhard bar, but as soon as that comes in, I'll be flex testing it, and double checking the stroke length of the shock. But, I'm not optimistic or happy. After the flex test, I will give Toytec a call and see what they have to say.
For the front, things also had issues. First, Toytec does not sell their bilstein fronts with new hardware, so you have to buy their additional kit, which does not match the shocks. The poly bushings they include are so fat that once all the bushings and washers and the top plate are on, you cannot reach the threads of the stud to get the upper nut to thread. I had to reuse the stock bushings. They also don't include a dust shield, and since my old ones were totally cracked and hard, I decided to run without one. I'm not sure how I feel about this.
Lastly, like DirtCo, these struts cause the ball joint to hit the springs at full droop. I think the issue may be these longer 5150 Bilsteins. They droop the front arms out farther than does an OME strut.
My experience with doing 3 different OME set ups on these trucks for others in the past, and then the Bilstein/ToyTec set up has not been pleasing. The OME stuff, while perhaps not giving a balanced lift, at least does not extend so far as to hit the springs, and doesn't seem to limit the rear travel. The parts also fit easily and smoothly.
I also installed my old Spidertrax spacers on the truck to get a bit wider stance. The thing was narrow when the lift went on, and I hate narrow. Narrow = time spent on lid. I like it better this way.
Camera's dead, but I should be able to get a few shots soon.
All in all, I was fairly disappointed with the Toytec lift.
I installed the rear first. Everything came off fine, and I installed the OME 890 coils in the rear. Then, for the rear shocks, Toytec uses some brackets and a double bushing style shock.
This would have been fine, except that the lower bushing was far to small for even a cleaned up shock stud. I had to drill out the bushing just to get it on.
The other issue here is that I have all of 4 inches of uptravel at ride height in the shock, and about 6 or seven on the bumps, which means that, since the axle will be arrested by the shocks and not the bumps, the shocks will blow out very rapidly. Not acceptable for the cost of those shocks.
I'm waiting on my panhard bar, but as soon as that comes in, I'll be flex testing it, and double checking the stroke length of the shock. But, I'm not optimistic or happy. After the flex test, I will give Toytec a call and see what they have to say.
For the front, things also had issues. First, Toytec does not sell their bilstein fronts with new hardware, so you have to buy their additional kit, which does not match the shocks. The poly bushings they include are so fat that once all the bushings and washers and the top plate are on, you cannot reach the threads of the stud to get the upper nut to thread. I had to reuse the stock bushings. They also don't include a dust shield, and since my old ones were totally cracked and hard, I decided to run without one. I'm not sure how I feel about this.
Lastly, like DirtCo, these struts cause the ball joint to hit the springs at full droop. I think the issue may be these longer 5150 Bilsteins. They droop the front arms out farther than does an OME strut.
My experience with doing 3 different OME set ups on these trucks for others in the past, and then the Bilstein/ToyTec set up has not been pleasing. The OME stuff, while perhaps not giving a balanced lift, at least does not extend so far as to hit the springs, and doesn't seem to limit the rear travel. The parts also fit easily and smoothly.
I also installed my old Spidertrax spacers on the truck to get a bit wider stance. The thing was narrow when the lift went on, and I hate narrow. Narrow = time spent on lid. I like it better this way.
Camera's dead, but I should be able to get a few shots soon.
Last edited by AxleIke; 03-04-2012 at 04:52 PM.
03-15-2012, 06:59 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like the perspective you're approaching this build from. Very interested in hearing the rest of what you have to say about the Toytec situation. What would you have went with had you the chance to do it over again? Sonoran Steel?
Keep it up man. Liking what I see.
Keep it up man. Liking what I see.
03-15-2012, 07:08 PM
#15
Registered User
You could still go for a mid travel 4x4 kit, I think TC makes one for that 4runner, or you could always build your own control arms in your spare time (mostly kidding hehe)
04-18-2012, 07:31 PM
#16
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Updates are lacking, I know, and so are pictures. I'll get them up soon.
I have done a couple more things to the truck:
1. I got a first gen (grey) supercharger and installed it. It had been picked up by a guy during a tacoma recall (works at toyota, snagged the SC off before a taco went to the crusher). He then had it rebuilt at PSE superchargers in OK. However, he decided to part out his build before installing it, and I bought it.
I installed 2 step colder plugs, and the usual BS, but have decided to see how things run in the stock configuration for now, so no URD kit yet.
It drives like a supercharged 3rd gen. Not a sports car, but I like the ability to pull most mountain highways here in CO in 5th.
2. Some very minor interior mods:
I installed my Arctec quart crate and my shovel (using quickfists) to the driver interior panel in the cargo area.
I'll post up some pics soon.
I have done a couple more things to the truck:
1. I got a first gen (grey) supercharger and installed it. It had been picked up by a guy during a tacoma recall (works at toyota, snagged the SC off before a taco went to the crusher). He then had it rebuilt at PSE superchargers in OK. However, he decided to part out his build before installing it, and I bought it.
I installed 2 step colder plugs, and the usual BS, but have decided to see how things run in the stock configuration for now, so no URD kit yet.
It drives like a supercharged 3rd gen. Not a sports car, but I like the ability to pull most mountain highways here in CO in 5th.
2. Some very minor interior mods:
I installed my Arctec quart crate and my shovel (using quickfists) to the driver interior panel in the cargo area.
I'll post up some pics soon.
06-26-2013, 01:05 PM
#17
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Finally Getting back to this thread!
I first took the truck out on a road trip with my brother through the southwest. Hit up Engineer Pass
New Mexico
Canyon de Chelly
and Grand Staircase
After that, I didn't do much with the truck and daily drove it. I wasn't sure if I was going to sell it for another rock crawler project, so I didn't want to invest much time into it.
This spring, I started working on it again.
I first added some 285/75 16 Yokohamas. They were a great price for 5, with certs, and some classic MT wheels. I sold the classic MT's and stuck my stock alloys on, which I prefer.
I also added an ARB bull bar. It was easier to bolt it on than fab something, and I didn't want to spend my whole summer in the shop, but rather out and about
I then started work on my rear bumper.
I first cut the frame off at the rear body mounts, and welded in a new section out of plate. This is to help re-inforce the rear end as well as mount the bumper. Sorry for the blurry shots.
I cut the old hitch up to use the reciever portion, and made a new hitch, which will also serve as the backbone of the bumper.
I then started working on the main bumper frame. The lower portions are 3/16, and the top plating and wing plating is 1/8".
I thought long and hard about how to do the wings, and eventually decided that Scotty and Addicted Offroad had the best idea for doing these side wings, and that is to cap the main end with plate, and use bent tube to make the wings. Just wanted to cite my references here.
Next up, I finished off the bottom section, and began plating the wings.
And that brings me to now. 2 nights ago I started working on the swing out and tire carrier. Got things mocked up in place and tacked in.
I'm working on gussets and plating now, and I'm thinking I will cut the swing arm down a bit to help with access when a trailer is hooked up, as well as just in general, not having to walk around as long a bar would be easier.
I first took the truck out on a road trip with my brother through the southwest. Hit up Engineer Pass
New Mexico
Canyon de Chelly
and Grand Staircase
After that, I didn't do much with the truck and daily drove it. I wasn't sure if I was going to sell it for another rock crawler project, so I didn't want to invest much time into it.
This spring, I started working on it again.
I first added some 285/75 16 Yokohamas. They were a great price for 5, with certs, and some classic MT wheels. I sold the classic MT's and stuck my stock alloys on, which I prefer.
I also added an ARB bull bar. It was easier to bolt it on than fab something, and I didn't want to spend my whole summer in the shop, but rather out and about
I then started work on my rear bumper.
I first cut the frame off at the rear body mounts, and welded in a new section out of plate. This is to help re-inforce the rear end as well as mount the bumper. Sorry for the blurry shots.
I cut the old hitch up to use the reciever portion, and made a new hitch, which will also serve as the backbone of the bumper.
I then started working on the main bumper frame. The lower portions are 3/16, and the top plating and wing plating is 1/8".
I thought long and hard about how to do the wings, and eventually decided that Scotty and Addicted Offroad had the best idea for doing these side wings, and that is to cap the main end with plate, and use bent tube to make the wings. Just wanted to cite my references here.
Next up, I finished off the bottom section, and began plating the wings.
And that brings me to now. 2 nights ago I started working on the swing out and tire carrier. Got things mocked up in place and tacked in.
I'm working on gussets and plating now, and I'm thinking I will cut the swing arm down a bit to help with access when a trailer is hooked up, as well as just in general, not having to walk around as long a bar would be easier.
