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yakima loadwarrior...

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Old 06-03-2004, 11:03 PM
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yakima loadwarrior...

Would it look better with or without the extension? Thhis would be mounted to factory rails. Also, how much should I be looking to spend? Ebay has one for 250 shipped with the cargo net.-thanks
Old 06-03-2004, 11:51 PM
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I like mine W/O the extension but it might be okay since yours will be mounted farther back. Mine is on towers right above the doors. That one EBAY is by far the cheapest you'll find. That's the same deal I got. That cargo net alone is like $30 and a seperate part from Yakima. Go for it!
Old 06-04-2004, 12:02 AM
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Normal price is 280 for Load Warrior, 100 for extension and 30 for net.
Pick it up cheap if you can
Old 06-04-2004, 04:05 AM
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A comparison.
No extension

With extension

You can hold more toys for the girls & boys with the 18" extension.

Here's some tips too for modding a LW carrior.
Old 06-04-2004, 06:47 AM
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Here are some pics w/ the extension on factory rails. It must be moved all the way forward otherwise the deflector on the back hatch will hit when you open it.

I also purchased the hi-lift bracket from Yakima.



Old 06-04-2004, 06:59 AM
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Here is a shot of my old '97 4runner without the extension.


Just depends on what your gonna haul. In my shorty, i have had alot of stuff up there.
Old 06-04-2004, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by anthraciterunner
Would it look better with or without the extension? Thhis would be mounted to factory rails. Also, how much should I be looking to spend? Ebay has one for 250 shipped with the cargo net.-thanks
The eye candy up to you. I bought the extension so that I could load more camping gear etc.

The factory track rails work great with Yakima's mounting brackets. However I would question using the OEM crossbars. The tabs on my crossbars were not wide enough in the tracks see pics. I was able to pop one end of my crossbars right off the track rail.



Old 06-04-2004, 02:14 PM
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Thanks for the replies everyone. The only reason I want to mount it on the factory rails is because I don't want it to stick up too high. There might be clearance issues going into the garage at my apartment complex.

Hey smr4runner, were you able to you just pull it out(factory crossbar) or did you put too much stress on it first? HAs anyone broken their factory crossbars using the rack? I won't be carrying anything too heavy up there. Maybe just luggage and camping supplies.-thanks again.
Old 06-04-2004, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by anthraciterunner
Hey smr4runner, were you able to you just pull it out(factory crossbar) or did you put too much stress on it first? HAs anyone broken their factory crossbars using the rack? I won't be carrying anything too heavy up there. Maybe just luggage and camping supplies.-thanks again.
To remove the crossbars you need to remove the endcaps with a torq wrench. Be carefull removing the endcaps as they break easy.
Old 06-04-2004, 02:39 PM
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I got mine for $180, closeout at a local stealership
I don't have the extension, but might be a future mod shortly!
Old 06-04-2004, 02:51 PM
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CLICK HERE for a cheaper price. Cheaphondaparts.com has the best thing going. The LoadWarrior is $203 and they usually only charge $12 shipping for a whole order. They also have the best prices on SST lock cores. Check them out.

Also,
I vote for with extension. The rack just holds more that way.
Old 06-04-2004, 03:23 PM
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HAs anyone broken their factory crossbars
I did once, due to the fact that the hi-lift was mounted to Load Warrior when I drove into the garage. Ended up breaking one crossbar and bending the lips on roof rails.

I have loaded mine down with coolers, firewood and tons of other camping gear (well over the recommended 165 lbs) and haven't had a problem.

Last edited by Ranski; 06-05-2004 at 06:21 AM.
Old 06-04-2004, 07:08 PM
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I just measured my garage opening...7 feet exactly. But it is on a somewhat steep incline. I think I have a little over 10 inches of clearance. I just pressed on the factory crossbars and they flex quite a bit. I don't know if I should trust them. Can anyone help me out by measuring the distance from the roof of the car to the highest point of the rack(using factory rail setup)? I'd appreciate it. I guess I'm gonna look for the parts that mounts the basket to the factory rails. Should I use roundbars or the square Thule's? How much height is that gonna add?-thanks again.
Old 06-04-2004, 07:34 PM
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one more ? What do I need to mount the basket to the facory rails? Is this correct:
*4 Landing pads
*4 Control Towers
*2 crossbars
Old 06-04-2004, 08:08 PM
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You are correct. You may want a faring to help with wind noise.

And the yakima isnt more then a couple inches higher then the stock rack. It's also very easy to take it on and off. They use a cam losk system. When you "open" the control tower the cams retract and you can lift it off. Only the landing pads stay on the rails.

Last edited by Mossback74; 06-04-2004 at 08:13 PM.
Old 06-04-2004, 08:48 PM
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From the top of the roof to the top of the rack on my 2000 4Runner it is 11"
10" from the top of the rails to the top of the rack.
4 landing pads (landing pad 1, btw) mounted in the factory rails.
4 control towers on top of those. It is about 3.75" from the top of the roof to the bottom of the rack. I love the setup and it can be removed in about 30 seconds if need be. I would recomend the locking bracket (Yakima 7064) to secure the basket to the crossbars too.

The Mount

Last edited by SkyRat; 06-04-2004 at 08:58 PM. Reason: Insert Pic
Old 06-04-2004, 09:03 PM
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Thank you guys soooo much.
Hey skyrat, does your cargo net still fit with the extension?
Also, can you get shorter bars or can you cut them down so they are more flush in relation to the mounts? the end caps just snap on the ends right?

Last edited by anthraciterunner; 06-04-2004 at 09:05 PM.
Old 06-04-2004, 10:10 PM
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Sky,

You beat me to it. I too ended up with 11" from the roof to the top of the rack.
I didn't like that there was sooo much space between the roof and the bottom of the rack. Plus it only left me with about 1/2" of room to get into my garage.
The space bugged me so much that I ended up removing the Yakima control towers and replaced them with Conferr mounting brackets. This required the round bars to be bolted to the new brackets. The final result was a loss of little more the 2inches of height which brought me down to a little under 9inches from the roof to the top of the rack.

Here's a pics with the Yakima control towers. My goal was to bring the rack closer to the roof line like the Conferr rack on DREADS rig.



Here's a pic with the Conferr mounting brackets fabbed up;


Last edited by smr4runner; 06-04-2004 at 10:13 PM.
Old 06-04-2004, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by anthraciterunner
Thank you guys soooo much.
Hey skyrat, does your cargo net still fit with the extension?
Also, can you get shorter bars or can you cut them down so they are more flush in relation to the mounts? the end caps just snap on the ends right?
Yes you can cut them down.
I like having them extend as I am about to mount a Hi-Lift.
Also, Yeah the net fits great. Pretty cool too, It has two size hooks at each point. The small hook snaps around the small bars, and the big hook snaps around the big diameter bars. Works great. One of the best things I have ever done. I had the rack for about a month then added the extension. Glad I did, otherwise a 3 person camping trip to Colorado for two weeks would be much tougher.

Hey, Where in SoCal?
Old 06-05-2004, 01:23 AM
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Originally Posted by SkyRat
Hey, Where in SoCal?
Just a little south of you, in Glendale. I haven't gone camping for like almost 7 years now. Looking to get some done this summer though. What weight limit should I keep in mind if I am going to use the yakima bars and mounts? I like the idea of being able to remove the rack quickly if need be.

Hey smr4runner, can you remove the conferr mounting brackets as easily as the yakimas?


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