95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners
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This is so simple that everyone should be doing their own pads. However, I didn't see a writeup, so I thought I'd throw one together incase people were wondering if they could do this job them selves.
I haven't put together a formal writeup yet, so this will have to do for the time being. This writeup is based on using Performance Friction pads on a 96 4Runner - if you use different pads or your rig is a different year, things may be slightly different.
It's very simple - remove the caliper, remove the old pads, insert new pads, reinstall caliper.
Here's what to do...
- Jack and Jackstands
- 17mm socket/ratchet
- needle nose pliars
- hammer and nail punch or small screw driver
new pads - I used Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads from AutoZone (part number 5024). TRD was contracted with PF for brake pads, so if you ask for PF pads for a 96 4Runner, they won't find any. Techincally, these pads are for a 96 LandCruiser, but the pads WILL WORK on the 4Runner. They are $38 per set of 4 pads and come with a lifetime waranty.
- Jack up front end - use jackstands for safety
- Remove tires
- Remove clips
- Remove 17mm bolts
- Remove caliper from rotor
- Remove pins (use hammer/nail punch/screw driver if necessary)
- Remove pads
- spread pistons as much as possible
- peel paper off brake plates
- stick plate to back side of new pad
- install new pads - try to get things reasonably lined up
- reinstall pins
- reinstall caliper over rotor
- reinstall clips
- mount wheels
- lower front end
A couple of notes...
Spreading the pistons when the pads are off will make it much easier to fit the calipers back over the rotors. The best way I've found to do this is to use a wrench (whatever you have handy)... lay the wrench across a pistion and pull back, pression the piston into the caliper. As you do this, the other piston may extend... so you may have to do it a few times. If you have problems, try removing the lid to the brake fluid resevoir. When you are finished with the isntall, you may need to pump your brake pedal a few times before you have pressure on the rotor. Make sure you do this before you go flying down the road.
This is a very simple job to do. If rust is an issue for you, getting the 17mm bolts off may be a problem. Using a 1/2" ratchet will give you more leverage. Also, make friends with PB blaster and a breaker bar. Getting the pads in and lined up and the pins fed through the pads can be a bit tedious, but it's not difficult.
Here's a pic to show what parts you are going to be dealing with...
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Jackson - My Site
96 SR5 4x4 - 33" MTs, open diffs, and 3.90s - LET'S ROCK!
My runner has bee traded in *sniff* on an 06 SR5 long bed d-cab Tacoma. The tacoma is nice, but... *sniff* ... I'll update my site when I'm done grieving.