where is my fuel filter? 87 4runner
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where is my fuel filter? 87 4runner
First time user. Need to know where exactly is the fuel filter for 87 4runner and the process of replacement.
#3
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YEAR MAKE AND MODEL HELP. 4 Cyl ? 6 Cyl ? Make of ENGINE HELPS greatly
Your post is VERY VAGUE. "Hey Guys I have a Truck anyone when how to replace the starter ?"
If it's a 22R or 22RE Engine ITS A PAIN in the Butt.
Put passenger side Front on Jack stands, Remove Tire, Remove Access pannel on inner wheel well, Look in access panel ABOVE the starter. ITS a BIA to get to.
Also USE THE SEARCH BUTTON this has been covered a million times
Your post is VERY VAGUE. "Hey Guys I have a Truck anyone when how to replace the starter ?"
If it's a 22R or 22RE Engine ITS A PAIN in the Butt.
Put passenger side Front on Jack stands, Remove Tire, Remove Access pannel on inner wheel well, Look in access panel ABOVE the starter. ITS a BIA to get to.
Also USE THE SEARCH BUTTON this has been covered a million times
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Actually, 874runner4fun, the easiest thing to do is to go to your local auto shop and find the reference manual section. Take a look at a Chiltons or Haynes manual for your truck and it should be in there.
If you're planning on doing a lot of your own work buy the manual. It's a good investment.
If you're planning on doing a lot of your own work buy the manual. It's a good investment.
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4 hummer, in 87 4Runners there was only one engine - it came in 2 versions, the 22RE or 22RET. Fuel filter is kinda near the firewall on the passenger side rear of the engine, tucked up under the intake plenum. Reach in from the top and feel around back there.... It is nearly impossible to get at. Frustrating.
#7
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My rig is lifted so I didn't need to remove the tire. But as they mentioned remove the access panel on the pass side. and maybe even take the starter off. Yotas rule, but this is definitely a design flaw in my opinion. Anyone tried to relocate thier filter????
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Originally Posted by deathrunner
My rig is lifted so I didn't need to remove the tire. But as they mentioned remove the access panel on the pass side. and maybe even take the starter off. Yotas rule, but this is definitely a design flaw in my opinion. Anyone tried to relocate thier filter????
#9
I just did mine yesterday............and broke my knock sensor in the process of it. It wasn't too hard, but I'm used to working on FWD's where everything is crammed. BTW, I have found out that knock sensors from just about any toyota are interechangable, just splice the wires. 10 bucks from the junkyard vs 160 from NAPA? You do the math.
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Thanks for the advice guys. I just replaced it. You know it wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't for the top bolt to the bracket. I ended up braking it off and my new filter had a bracket built into it. I figured just bolt the bottom and forget about the top. Hey, as long as it doesn't move, it won't hurt. Took about an hour. Not too hard. And it's worth it.
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The fuel filter on a 22re is a pain, but it can be lessened:
1. jack up the truck high on the passenger front and put it on a jackstand,
2. remove the passenger side tire
3. remove the access plate on the inner fender
4. take off the gas cap
5. remove the front fuel line. I think it takes a 17mm socket DO NOT REMOVE REAR LINE
6. remove the mounting bolts, upper and lower (10mm I think, maybe 12mm). Swivel joints incorporated into either your socket extension or you personal anatomy help significantly.
7. pull the fuel filter out between the fender and frame and remove the rear fuel line. Trust me, this saves a ton of grief of trying to reach in and remove the rear fuel line.
8. remove the filter while trying to hold it somewhat level. It will have gas in it and will spill all over
9. remove plug(s) from new filter
10. install rear fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets at the banjo fitting
11. mount fuel filter on block
12. install front fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets. When installing the fuel lines make sure in both instances to ensure the gaskets are still in place when you put the banjo fitting on the filter.
13. make sure fuel line bolts are snug. Use an opened end wrench to hold the filter ends when tightening so as not to rip the filter
14. fire up the truck and check for leaks. It will take a bit of extra cranking to get it started since the fuel system has a pocket of air in it.
15. button everything back up, put on the tire, drop it on the ground and pat yourself on the back. You just beat the crap out of your knuckles, upset the neighbors, emabarrassed your wife, taught your kids and all the kids in the neighborhood all sorts of new vocabulary words to use on the playground and you saved yourself a trip to the mechanic and $35-40
1. jack up the truck high on the passenger front and put it on a jackstand,
2. remove the passenger side tire
3. remove the access plate on the inner fender
4. take off the gas cap
5. remove the front fuel line. I think it takes a 17mm socket DO NOT REMOVE REAR LINE
6. remove the mounting bolts, upper and lower (10mm I think, maybe 12mm). Swivel joints incorporated into either your socket extension or you personal anatomy help significantly.
7. pull the fuel filter out between the fender and frame and remove the rear fuel line. Trust me, this saves a ton of grief of trying to reach in and remove the rear fuel line.
8. remove the filter while trying to hold it somewhat level. It will have gas in it and will spill all over
9. remove plug(s) from new filter
10. install rear fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets at the banjo fitting
11. mount fuel filter on block
12. install front fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets. When installing the fuel lines make sure in both instances to ensure the gaskets are still in place when you put the banjo fitting on the filter.
13. make sure fuel line bolts are snug. Use an opened end wrench to hold the filter ends when tightening so as not to rip the filter
14. fire up the truck and check for leaks. It will take a bit of extra cranking to get it started since the fuel system has a pocket of air in it.
15. button everything back up, put on the tire, drop it on the ground and pat yourself on the back. You just beat the crap out of your knuckles, upset the neighbors, emabarrassed your wife, taught your kids and all the kids in the neighborhood all sorts of new vocabulary words to use on the playground and you saved yourself a trip to the mechanic and $35-40
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Originally Posted by deathrunner
My rig is lifted so I didn't need to remove the tire. But as they mentioned remove the access panel on the pass side. and maybe even take the starter off. Yotas rule, but this is definitely a design flaw in my opinion. Anyone tried to relocate thier filter????
It is really easy to relocate it to the inner fender on a 1st gen 4Runner. I used a long piece of 1/4" mending strap and beat on it until it was in the shape of the filter, bolted it to the filter then to the inner fender. I can change the filter now in about 10 minutes and if I'm really careful, I practically don't even get my hands dirty.
A cavaet, I tried to do this on my wife's 1991 pickup with a 22re and the fuel line was not long enough and kinked resulting in surging in the fuel system so I had to put it back the way it was. So, if you try to do it on something other than a 1st gen, it may be necessary to have one or both of the fuel lines replaced with longer ones.
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