IDM

What is the appropriate mileage or age to replace the spark plug wires?
I am going to change spark plugs and wanted to see if they are also typically changed on these cars or left alone?


Also what about the fuel filter?


Thanks

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

http://daemon4x4.org/portal/downloads.php?dcid=17

go nuts.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

It's a torrent, so download "utorrent" to be able to download it. You have to "unzip" it after it's downloaded. Then you'll be able to double click the "contents" file and use the FSM properly.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I change my plugs and wires and fuel filter every spring.

one seized Fuel filter and one broken spark plug makes it worth the extra expense at least to me.

If you live where you don`t have winter it would be real different

TheDurk

Wow. I'm gonna call that overkill, IMHO.

I did filter and wires at a little over 80k and should probably do them again now at 165k. I do have winter. Plugs I do at 30k. They still look real good when they come out.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

X2 that's overkill, you can buy a lot of anti seize for that.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The parts are cheap besides it is only three vehicles

Pulling a head to drill out a spark plug was sort of time consuming .

I buy Never Seize by the case the fuel filter and the broken spark plug were all never seized go figure.

To each there own It works for me.

I can`t see pulling the plugs out and not putting new ones in.

The same with pulling the fuel filter off and Never Seizing the threads and reinstalling never had this problem before the liquid Brine.

I use all Toyota Parts for these things as well

I guess to some to much maintenance is worse then none at all.

TheDurk

I'll make you a deal. The day I break a plug, I'll do it your way from then on. I have never broken a plug and the NGK's on my 4Runner are never even hard to break loose after 30k, and, as NGK suggests, I don't use anti-seize at all on plug threads except for the 1966 Farmall. I do torque my plugs to spec. Anti-seize can actually cause you to overtorque a plug as the spec is for a dry plug. I've probably changed several hundred plugs going back to the 3hp Tecumseh I had on my Fox go-cart in the 60s.

Wires: there are plenty of people still running the Sumitomo stockers out there--good wires just don't go bad that fast.

I use NGK plugs and wires and Wix filters from Amazon and NAPA. They work just as well as Toyota branded stuff.

I have only so much time and energy to devote to vehicle maintenance. If I devote too much of those in one place, I figure I'll go short in another. No biggie, you go your way and I'll go mine and we'll both do fine.

BTW, my brother owns a dairy farm in Kempton, not all that far from you.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Well the broken spark plug was from a helper and of course it was a rear one.

Yes I remember you saying that about your brother I feel sorry for him.

No matter what Cows are hard work .

Not many small farms left.

TheDurk

Don't feel sorry--his day job is investment banker in NYC--farm is a hobby. He figures running at breakeven or slightly better he can justify buying more and more farmland as long-term investment. Plus he gets to drive a tractor on weekends when he feels like it.

IDM

This is my fuel filter. It is oem and has a Toyota sticker and part number on it. Is there any way to differentiate this filter from the stock one that came with the car? I'm trying to figure out if it has ever been changed. How often would you say is good to change it? Thanks


Also my car has 170k miles and I don't know if the wires have ever been changed. They look to be in good shape from inspecting them. Should I change them or keep them if they have the proper resistance? Also do you guys replace the intake manifold gaskets when you remove them to do the plugs or keep them because they are metal? Again Im at 170k miles.

TheDurk

I think the filters are identical. Toyota says lifetime, I do 80k. The factory plug wires were Sumitomos and have the year of manufacture stamped on the insulation, so it's easy to tell if they are original. If they are, they really owe you nothing and I would change them.

Why would you remove the intake manifold to change the plugs? You just unclamp the big hose from the airbox to the throttle body; no gasket involved.

IDM

Hey buddy your post was very helpful, thanks.


So Toyota states that the fuel filter is supposed to last the life of the car and not to change it?


I looked at my plug wires and they say sumitomo 2004 on them. So they are 10 years old. thinking I'll change them, do you agree?


What about to do the valve cover gaskets? Do the manifolds need to come off? I just want to make sure to have all parts handy when I do it and not have the car down for a while ordering things.


Thanks!

TheDurk

My answers in bold.

IDM

Thanks a lot!


Are you saying that I can just re-tighten the valve cover bolts and the leaking will go away? Is that a typical fix or only on your car?


That would save quite a bit of work and cost. the gaskets are expensive.


Thanks a lot

TheDurk

No, I've seen similar posts from others. There is no guarantee, sometimes you DO need the VCG's, but certainly worth a try. Many found those bolts to be EXTREMELY loose, as in can be turned with fingers.

IDM

Great thanks again!!


Also do I need to replace the spark plug seals when doing the spark plugs? They are 11 dollars a piece and the spark plugs are 7.50 each...sounds nuts

TheDurk

No, you only need those if you pull the valve covers.

aowRS

- I've changed my fuel filter three times - once at 100,000 miles, again at 200,000 miles, and then at 300,000 miles.
- I replace my plugs every 25,000 miles with NGK.
- I replaced the wires one time at around 250,000 miles. The three coil packs are original.

The truck now has 315,000+ miles and the engine sounds like it's always sounded. Pretty amazing.



Andreas