Whitey13

I just failed inspection for my ebrake not holding. Afterwards I went out and did the reverse drive adjustment technique to little avail, as well as tightening the cable from the lever. Something is definately rubbing now, but I don't think there is any meat left on the bone so to speak. Since I have to go back to get another sticker, I'm sure they will bust my balls about how well it works.

I just did new rotors and pads but have no experience with drums. When I call around for prices, what are the basic rebuild parts I am going to need?

Adam F

New shoes should be all you need, maybe a spring kit if the old springs are worn. Possibly new drums if the shoes are gone and are into the drums. Some brake lube too.

Have you manually adjusted the rear brakes? (star adjuster) (not the ebrake inside the truck) I'd try adjusting the shoes first.

superjoe83

i would highly recommend to also replace the wheel cylinders, they are cheap insurance against future leaks, they are about $10-$15 a side

CyMoN

I have done two sets of rear drums in the last 2 months I did not have to replace any springs but the lever arm that go's in for the E brake was rusted up pretty good so when you have it open grease it from the inside will help it release better.
and like stated above replace the rear cylinders at the same time.
when I did my shoes about 6 months ago I did not replace the rear cylinders and then last month after working on a buddys truck and seeing how much crud was in his got me thinking about mine replaced mine and it is alot better but I also replace the MC at that time.

HAVOC

Have you thought about a transfercase e-brake? But it might not make sense to do it if you keep your drums. If you do go with the t-case brake, be sure to remove all the e-brake related parts in the drums.