What more could I need to do?
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Boston, MA
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What more could I need to do?
Ok I just took my stimulus check and stimulated the reliability of my runner.
So in the last two weeks I have replaced the following:
-K&N drop in air filter
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned Throttle body
-O2 sensor
-fuel filter
-PCV
-spark plugs
-plug wires
-battery
-starter
-timing belt
-water pump
-thermostat
-accesory belts
-radiator hoses
-fan clutch
-a/c compressor clutch
Here is what is left to do on my list:
-Rear axle seals and bearings
-extend differential breathers
-rear brake pads
-driveline u-joints
-grease all zirc fittings
-flush transfer case
-flush transmission
the truck is just about to roll over 100,000 miles and very little work has been done to it other that acc belts and oil changes on the regular. Any ideas on other parts that I should be chasing down and checking for wear? I don't want to leave many options for things to jump up and bite me in the butt later.
-Me-
So in the last two weeks I have replaced the following:
-K&N drop in air filter
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned Throttle body
-O2 sensor
-fuel filter
-PCV
-spark plugs
-plug wires
-battery
-starter
-timing belt
-water pump
-thermostat
-accesory belts
-radiator hoses
-fan clutch
-a/c compressor clutch
Here is what is left to do on my list:
-Rear axle seals and bearings
-extend differential breathers
-rear brake pads
-driveline u-joints
-grease all zirc fittings
-flush transfer case
-flush transmission
the truck is just about to roll over 100,000 miles and very little work has been done to it other that acc belts and oil changes on the regular. Any ideas on other parts that I should be chasing down and checking for wear? I don't want to leave many options for things to jump up and bite me in the butt later.
-Me-
#2
Registered User
looks like you are doing good.
You shouldn't have needed a starter...just contacts but too late now.
The rest of your list looks pretty easy. You will have rear brake shoes not pads (they are drum in the rear).
The rear axle seals are only needed if they are leaking...you'll see that around the inside of your wheel.
The transfer case just needs a drain and fill not a flush. Go ahead and do the front and rear diffs while you are at it, they are cake.
I would suggest not getting a flush as sometimes that does more harm than good, try a good drain and fill about 10 times and you'll have all the fluid changed from the pan through the torque converter. This ensures its done right and you won't risk anything with the flush. There have been horror stories about getting it flushed because it moves around too much inside, etc. Do a search.
I would suggest checking out www.4runners.org
Its an excellent site and covers almost every thing that you are going to do.
You shouldn't have needed a starter...just contacts but too late now.
The rest of your list looks pretty easy. You will have rear brake shoes not pads (they are drum in the rear).
The rear axle seals are only needed if they are leaking...you'll see that around the inside of your wheel.
The transfer case just needs a drain and fill not a flush. Go ahead and do the front and rear diffs while you are at it, they are cake.
I would suggest not getting a flush as sometimes that does more harm than good, try a good drain and fill about 10 times and you'll have all the fluid changed from the pan through the torque converter. This ensures its done right and you won't risk anything with the flush. There have been horror stories about getting it flushed because it moves around too much inside, etc. Do a search.
I would suggest checking out www.4runners.org
Its an excellent site and covers almost every thing that you are going to do.
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Sierra Nevada's or the Deserts of Las Vegas
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looks like you are doing good.
You shouldn't have needed a starter...just contacts but too late now.
The rest of your list looks pretty easy. You will have rear brake shoes not pads (they are drum in the rear).
The rear axle seals are only needed if they are leaking...you'll see that around the inside of your wheel.
The transfer case just needs a drain and fill not a flush. Go ahead and do the front and rear diffs while you are at it, they are cake.
I would suggest not getting a flush as sometimes that does more harm than good, try a good drain and fill about 10 times and you'll have all the fluid changed from the pan through the torque converter. This ensures its done right and you won't risk anything with the flush. There have been horror stories about getting it flushed because it moves around too much inside, etc. Do a search.
I would suggest checking out www.4runners.org
Its an excellent site and covers almost every thing that you are going to do.
You shouldn't have needed a starter...just contacts but too late now.
The rest of your list looks pretty easy. You will have rear brake shoes not pads (they are drum in the rear).
The rear axle seals are only needed if they are leaking...you'll see that around the inside of your wheel.
The transfer case just needs a drain and fill not a flush. Go ahead and do the front and rear diffs while you are at it, they are cake.
I would suggest not getting a flush as sometimes that does more harm than good, try a good drain and fill about 10 times and you'll have all the fluid changed from the pan through the torque converter. This ensures its done right and you won't risk anything with the flush. There have been horror stories about getting it flushed because it moves around too much inside, etc. Do a search.
I would suggest checking out www.4runners.org
Its an excellent site and covers almost every thing that you are going to do.
#4
better is to pay the dealer 80 bucks and have them change it
with a computerized machine that replaces all of it at once
#5
Registered User
Yeah, to replace the entire system you'll need to drain it. Run it for a few minutes, then drain it again, run it, drain it, run it....10x or so until you get nice red fluid coming out. The a/t pan only holds roughly 3-4 quarts whereas the entire system has a total of 15-18 quarts when you figure all the fluid that is still in the tranny and torque converter.
An alternative way is to take off the return line of the tranny as it comes back from the radiator. My line was seized on there so I didn't screw with it.
You can pay a dealer 80 bucks or you can buy the fluid and do it yourself for half that.
Do a search on changing out the fluid, there are more comprehensive write-ups for this. Do what you want...i'm a recent college grad so money isn't growing on trees for me yet so saving $40-50 means a lot to me.
An alternative way is to take off the return line of the tranny as it comes back from the radiator. My line was seized on there so I didn't screw with it.
You can pay a dealer 80 bucks or you can buy the fluid and do it yourself for half that.
Do a search on changing out the fluid, there are more comprehensive write-ups for this. Do what you want...i'm a recent college grad so money isn't growing on trees for me yet so saving $40-50 means a lot to me.
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#8
Registered User
This website has all the recommended service intervals from Toyota
http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/
http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/