Uisge Beathe

Right now I'm using the 1998 Taco I just bought (with 269K miles) as a daily driver, and any off-roading or camping goodies will have to wait...I have a wedding to pay for, and that is already out of control with 200+ guest list. What am I forgetting to do to the Taco?

I put in a K&N FIPK ----Done

I put in new headlight bulbs (Silverstars) ----Done

I put in new spark plugs and MSD wires (NGK Iridiums and 8.5mm wires) ----Done

I ordered new brake rotors and pads and steel braided lines (EBC dimpled/slotted with EBC GreenStuff pads)

I was gonna rebuild the master cylinders but nobody seems to offer a rebuild kit, just re-man cylinders

gonna change oil and filter (Royal Purple and K&N) ----Done

gonna change Transmission oil (Amsoil Severe Gear) ----Done

gonna change Transfer case oil (Amsoil Severe Gear) ----Done

gonna change front and back axle gear oil (Amsoil Severe Gear) ----Rear Diff Done

gonna flush the radiator and put in a new thermostat (Stant)

gonna put in new windshield wipers

gonna put in a new fuel filter

skrassow

...Drive it! Unless yours has some specific problem, these are already safe reliable trucks. Even with the miles, if you unsure of its maintenance history, then as you plan already just change/check the fluids and look over everything else for wear and tear. I wouldnt really replace stuff unless it needs it though. Not real sure why some people feel thats necessary Is there something wrong with your brakes thats leading you to rebuild the mast cyl

poolskaterpt

Pair of diesel truck horns from the junkyard and a caddy suspension compressor and 1 gallon tank to charge them! Nothing like a decent horn for those folks on the daily commute that cut you off!! bowel movement on the spot when you hit that air horn!!

Tubbyfatty

hahaha wow.

Uisge Beathe

Just 'cause I'm making the list doesn't mean it's a do ASAP list. Some of the stuff will obviously be done as needed and some of the stuff is just cheap insurance that it might as well be done anyway, or since I'm there already doing other stuff...might as well do it since it's torn apart. Sure, Toyota is known for being "bullet proof" but that is sorta predicated upon the vehicle being properly maintained...and since I have no vehicle history I would rather know what I have, or have the part readily available when it breaks. Yes, it might be overkill...I'm aware.

I'm driving it 70 miles a day round trip, back and forth from work. Plus, throw the dogs in the back and take 'em to the bark park and what not.

Had time to give it more thought...

DUH...replace drive belts (as needed)
replace hoses (since I will drain radiator anyways)
Power steering fluid
Clutch fluid
Get it in the air and tug on the wheels (wheel bearings)
Bought the Energy Suspension Master bushing set.

My Dad and I just sort of did our last big father/son project, since he is getting up there (68) and I'm all grows up, and rebuilt the FE 390 V8 block in his 1969 F100 along with rebuild the tranny, etc. He was all excited to put in air horns running off of his Viair and thought it would be "hilarious". First time we tried them out it scared the $%&^ out of everyone around. Not just because it was loud as hell...but because the compressor had too much pressure and needed the regulator adjusted so it got real loud real quick and then blew out the diaphragm...it sound like HOOOOOOONK POW (Gun Shot). We laughed for a long time at how much of idiots we were. One of those "Had to be there moments" that was only funny to us. Oh Well.

Uisge Beathe

Nope...but since I'm replacing rotors and pads and putting on steel braided lines, it just seems like one of those things to do while you're in there. Murphy will more than likely come along right after I've finished putting the new stuff on and flushing the brake fluid. Oops...there goes the master cylinder. A rebuild kit is like $14, why NOT do it? Re-man'd master brake cylinder is about $100 with $30 core, and clutch is about $40. That stuff is so cheap it makes more sense to me to do it while I'm there, instead of HOPING it holds up the first time I really need it to.

skrassow

Well there you have it then. With all of that stuff youll just about have a new truck! Check/clean the MAF as well. Maybe O2 sensors. I think they say those should be replaced at 100k.

Uisge Beathe

Good call on the MAF and O2...forgot to mention that I cleaned up the MAF when I put on the FIPK.

After all of my upcoming wedding expenses are done and we get back from the honeymoon, I hope to do a full exhaust from headers back including O2's.

Debating on SeaFoam'ing it.

skrassow

Ive been debating the seafoam thing too. I need to look into it a little. Warning on the O2 sensors...those little bastards are expensive! I just paid $100 for the front one!

Uisge Beathe

I will wait 2-3 oil changes and see if the oil comes out nasty black or stays relatively clean, for oil that is, and that will help me decide.

Otherwise I will wait until I'm prepared to take on whatever "dirty little secrets" get revealed after SeaFoam from all the carbon build up inside the engine holding stuff together.

toyota4x4907

if its a 5vz-fe, change the timing belt.

its a 3rz-fe check the timing chain for wear. I'm pretty sure 3rz-FE timing chains are good for life, but should be changed within 300K miles as preventative.

conundrum

you are missing the point of a reliable truck. if it's not broken, stop throwing parts at it. fluid changes and maint parts are a good idea but really, brake pads worn out, but even? measure the rotors, if good have turned for 1/4 the cost of new. leave the calipers and master cyl alone. leave the clutch cyl alone.
don't put a dirt gulping k&n filter on. ignition wires cracked or arcing, no? then leave them alone. you can always find things that need to be done, align,leaks,etc. all vehicles have a lifespan, it may die next week. just throwing parts at it just because seems unwise. it is in it's twilight years now.

02 taco 3.4L 250,230 mi. without a single part failure.

Seacoast

I notice you haven't said anything about the frame....

You wanna keep that truck you need to be rustproofing the frame (inside and out), not replacing things that still work, or you're gonna have the best maintained truck in the crusher.

Uisge Beathe

Thank you for your comment, everyones perspectives and opinions are welcome but to say I'm missing the point of a reliable truck isn't quite accurate. Perhaps I don't share your definition, but I don't think I'm missing the point. PLUS I pointed out that this is more of a To Do list and not a Must Do Right This Second list. I got this vehicle about a week ago with ZERO history, so for me, the only SAFE way to proceed is to assume that everything was neglected. If it were mine the whole time and I put those miles on it, it might be a different story. I could just wait until parts break and replace them as needed but some of those items I don't want breaking while I'm driving it or it makes sense to replace while I'm in there doing other things.

Sure...I could have rotors turned and measure brake pads and etc...and I thank you for your comments on ways to conserve a $$, but having no idea of how the vehicle was treated (though I will assume some basic maint must have been done in order to rack up 269k miles) I am not going to leave things to too much chance. I am putting on steel braided brake lines because it just seems like a safe way to treat an 11 year old vehicle with rubber lines and it's cheap insurance. While I'm there I have to drain the fluid anyway...a $130 master cylinder is cheap enough...might as well do that while it's drained instead of trust 11 year old rubber internals. New rotors and pads might be excessive but that's just what I felt like doing. Then since the brakes will be off I might as well repack the bearings. YES...I realize that logic could go on forever.

But let's face it just about everything that is added to a vehicle is usually not because it's NEEDED, it's because we felt like adding them. Stock stereos work just fine, stock rims work just fine, so on and so forth...granted there are exceptions to that rule and some items are replaced because they are actually broke, but 99% of the time probably not. My piece of mind is worth more than a wish and a prayer that something doesn't give out at the wrong time. Changing all the fluids on a used car doesn't seem excessive to me. Changing 11 year old plug wires may not have been needed but the plugs were pretty burnt up. I agree the K/N filter is a toss up, but it runs much better with the new plugs, wires and intake on it.

You are right though, it might die next week...at which point I will rebuild the engine. I plan on keeping this Taco running for another 200k miles. Seriously though, thanks for your comment and I hope my response isn't taken with any sarcastic tone. I'm definitely about saving $$ it's just some other items make sense to do while I'm in there...if I'm going to drain the coolant why not change the thermostat and put new hoses on it? I have to assume EVERYTHING is original.

Uisge Beathe

I haven't mentioned anything here about the frame because I had been posting here https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/striping-sand-blasting-frame-worth-183751/ and didn't want to double post. I did just have the frame inspected and I live in Las Vegas so hopefully what surface rust there is won't progress very much. I do plan on stripping rust and corrosion treating the frame but still investigating what direction makes the most sense for me. Thanks for the comment though, the frame is certainly a valid point.

kmcaprice14

grease your zerks

scuba

Check the exhaust manifold for cracking..

Uisge Beathe

I drained the rear diff today and the oil didn't look too bad but the magnetic plug was covered with shavings (sigh).

I drained the transfer case too. Well...I should say I took the drain plug out anyways and what very little came out hardly qualifies as draining it. To my horror maybe a couple of ounces of oil slowly trickled out. It was a thick grey sludge and there wasn't even enough to fill up the bottom of my drain pan. I squirted a couple ounces of fresh fluid in there to sorta flush it and will drain and refill again in the near future to get a better flush.

I started to drain the tranny and fortunately had an "ah hah" moment. I got the drain plug loose but before I loosened it enough to drain any fluid I realized I better make sure I can get the fill plug loose too. I couldn't...my 12 point started to round it off so I had to run to sears to buy a 6 point 24MM socket and will try it tomorrow.

The front diff looks like it's going to take some work to get access to. Hopefully it's just a matter of taking off the one "skid" plate.

Uisge Beathe

Just ordered Ceramic coated Doug Thorley headers and new O2 sensors. I will take it to a local muffler shop and have the exhaust done. Found a nice hole in my muffler..actually I'm not sure hole is accurate since it's the seam that runs the length of the muffler that rusted out...it's the entire muffler.

Uisge Beathe

----Done