WARNING: Please read if you have headers and a 5-speed (5VZ, 3VZ?)
07-01-2004, 08:07 PM
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WARNING: Please read if you have headers and a 5-speed (5VZ, 3VZ?)
I took my rig out for a test drive after swapping in the rear e-locked 4.30 axle. All was good. Well, as I was pulling into the driveway, I heard a pop and the clutch pedal went to the floor. White smoke was coming out from under my hood. I knew I had lost hydraulic pressure to the clutch.
You know what is strange? This is totally unrelated to my swap. It just so happen to be in my driveway. So, I look at it as a blessing in disguise.
Anyway, the problem is that the drivers-side header and the clutch master cylinder "soft" line are dangerously close. The line finally burned through. That was the root cause.
Anyway, if you have this set-up, please check your line. I was very lucky this happened in my driveway.
Here is a picture, even though it is hard to decifer.
You know what is strange? This is totally unrelated to my swap. It just so happen to be in my driveway. So, I look at it as a blessing in disguise.
Anyway, the problem is that the drivers-side header and the clutch master cylinder "soft" line are dangerously close. The line finally burned through. That was the root cause.
Anyway, if you have this set-up, please check your line. I was very lucky this happened in my driveway.
Here is a picture, even though it is hard to decifer.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 07-01-2004 at 08:28 PM.
07-01-2004, 08:16 PM
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All of us with headers definately need to go through and check everything that is in close proximity. I have burned up my tranny kickdown cable and one of my spark wires. 
07-02-2004, 04:50 AM
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Not done with the swap yet Peter! I still have the front diffs to exchange... 
I got the front diff from the donor rig pulled. Now I have to pull mine and swap them. The front is far worse than the rear IMO.
OK, back on topic!
I got the front diff from the donor rig pulled. Now I have to pull mine and swap them. The front is far worse than the rear IMO.
OK, back on topic!
07-02-2004, 05:52 AM
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Thanks for the heads up!
Sorry it happened to you, but thanks for sharing your experience!
I think headers are a long, long way down the road for Sherpa, but I would love to have some ceramic coated headers installed eventually. I'll be sure the keep my clutch cable as far away as possible.
Thanks again for the heads up!
-S
I think headers are a long, long way down the road for Sherpa, but I would love to have some ceramic coated headers installed eventually. I'll be sure the keep my clutch cable as far away as possible.
Thanks again for the heads up!
-S
07-02-2004, 06:15 AM
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Well, a few things:
1. If you stay with the stock line, make sure you secure the line up and away with something strong (not just a zip tie).
2. Consider a custom made steel-braided line. I am in the process of searching for something like this.
3. Wrap the stock line with some type of reflective shielding tape.
If I go the stock route again, I am going to wrap it with something before I put it in. Keep in mind the Stealer wants $26 for the line! Ouch.
I will update this thread when I reach a solution.
1. If you stay with the stock line, make sure you secure the line up and away with something strong (not just a zip tie).
2. Consider a custom made steel-braided line. I am in the process of searching for something like this.
3. Wrap the stock line with some type of reflective shielding tape.
If I go the stock route again, I am going to wrap it with something before I put it in. Keep in mind the Stealer wants $26 for the line! Ouch.
I will update this thread when I reach a solution.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 07-02-2004 at 10:28 AM.
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07-02-2004, 07:36 AM
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NX-
The rig is doing fine. I am picking up the stock part today to fix this issue so I can pull it in the garage and pull the front diff (and continue the swap). This could have been in the middle of the woods or something, so it really isn't so bad. I learned something. :pat:
Mike -
I did not know brake fluid was flammable! Wow, now I am really counting my blessings!
I was actually ready to get my fire extinguisher because the smoke filled my garage. Luckily it was all bark and no bite.
I am running 265/75/16's.
I got the part reduced to $22. Conecilli has it for $17, but I dont want to wait that long. No custom line for me. Not yet anyway.
The rig is doing fine. I am picking up the stock part today to fix this issue so I can pull it in the garage and pull the front diff (and continue the swap). This could have been in the middle of the woods or something, so it really isn't so bad. I learned something. :pat:
Mike -
I did not know brake fluid was flammable! Wow, now I am really counting my blessings!
I was actually ready to get my fire extinguisher because the smoke filled my garage. Luckily it was all bark and no bite.
I am running 265/75/16's.
I got the part reduced to $22. Conecilli has it for $17, but I dont want to wait that long. No custom line for me. Not yet anyway.
Last edited by rimpainter.com; 07-02-2004 at 10:28 AM.
07-02-2004, 07:43 AM
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A heat shield is your best bet. Heating up brake fluid is not good for braking. If there is enough moisture in the fluid, it can boil. Maybe a heat shield and a stainless steel line in combination.
07-02-2004, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
A heat shield is your best bet. Heating up brake fluid is not good for braking. If there is enough moisture in the fluid, it can boil. Maybe a heat shield and a stainless steel line in combination.
07-02-2004, 08:53 PM
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OK, I got the new line in, that was fun
Anyway, for those of you wondering how I fixed this problem once and for all, here is what I did:
I bent the hard line at each end of the new soft line to a "new" location. Basically, I bent everything way out of the way, down and around the collector on the drivers side. It worked great! You would be surprised at how much play those hard lines have. They allow for a lot of movement.
Problem solved! Back to the front diffs.
Anyway, for those of you wondering how I fixed this problem once and for all, here is what I did:
I bent the hard line at each end of the new soft line to a "new" location. Basically, I bent everything way out of the way, down and around the collector on the drivers side. It worked great! You would be surprised at how much play those hard lines have. They allow for a lot of movement.
Problem solved! Back to the front diffs.
06-27-2005, 11:42 AM
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Yes, it is. It takes a fair amount of heat to light it off, but exhausts and turbos are plenty hot enough:
Brake Fluid DOT 3
Flammability
Classification: OSHA/NFPA Class IIIB combustible liquid.
Flash Point / Method: 121° C (250° F) PMCC
Auto-Ignition Temperature: (590° F)
Flammable Limits: LOWER: Not determined UPPER: Not determined
Hazardous Combustion Products: Carbon oxides (CO, CO2) gives off irritating and /or toxic gases in a fire.
Special conditions to Avoid: Keep away from sparks, heat and open flame.
Extinguishing Media: SMALL FIRE: Use dry chemical, CO2, water spray or regular foam, LARGE FIRE: Use
water spray, water fog or foam. DO NOT use straight streams.
Fire Fighting
Instructions: Protective Equipment/Clothing: Wear a NIOSH approved positive pressure self-contained
breathing apparatus and firefighter turnout gear.
Instruction: Fight from a maximum distance or use unmanned hose holders or monitor
nozzles. Containers can build up pressure if exposed to heat; cool with flooding
quantities of water until well after the fire is out. Withdraw immediately in case of
rising sound from venting safety devices or discoloration of vessel.
Brake Fluid DOT 3
Flammability
Classification: OSHA/NFPA Class IIIB combustible liquid.
Flash Point / Method: 121° C (250° F) PMCC
Auto-Ignition Temperature: (590° F)
Flammable Limits: LOWER: Not determined UPPER: Not determined
Hazardous Combustion Products: Carbon oxides (CO, CO2) gives off irritating and /or toxic gases in a fire.
Special conditions to Avoid: Keep away from sparks, heat and open flame.
Extinguishing Media: SMALL FIRE: Use dry chemical, CO2, water spray or regular foam, LARGE FIRE: Use
water spray, water fog or foam. DO NOT use straight streams.
Fire Fighting
Instructions: Protective Equipment/Clothing: Wear a NIOSH approved positive pressure self-contained
breathing apparatus and firefighter turnout gear.
Instruction: Fight from a maximum distance or use unmanned hose holders or monitor
nozzles. Containers can build up pressure if exposed to heat; cool with flooding
quantities of water until well after the fire is out. Withdraw immediately in case of
rising sound from venting safety devices or discoloration of vessel.
06-27-2005, 11:43 AM
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Hello old thread.
Anyway, brake fluid IS flammable. I had a brake line that was too close to an unprotected 12V power distribution block. It kept arcing over to my brake line (which was effectively ground), until it finally burned a hole clean through. The brake fluid gushed out onto the hot header and it probably arced again. Bam, fire that was VERY tough to put out with dirt, lol. Almost lost my truck that day.
Anyway, brake fluid IS flammable. I had a brake line that was too close to an unprotected 12V power distribution block. It kept arcing over to my brake line (which was effectively ground), until it finally burned a hole clean through. The brake fluid gushed out onto the hot header and it probably arced again. Bam, fire that was VERY tough to put out with dirt, lol. Almost lost my truck that day.
10-01-2006, 02:04 AM
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Here's the best thing to do with that rubber hose;TRASH IT! Go get a steel line about 5 feet long,bend several pigtails in it,and route it way around the headers.Works great,just like your brake lines.This is almost a must with a body lift.Dont forget it is metric.
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