SRT4runner

After doing research on here and getting a large headache on brake bleeding (it seems like EVERYONE has a different way to do it) I tried this method and it worked great. I posted this on another site and figured I'd post it here too:

I installed the 231mm Tundra brakes on my 4runner today wow did it make a huge difference. The only thing I did differently than most people was I added stainless steel brake lines and stainless steel speed bleeders to the new calipers. The speed bleeders made it super easy to bleed the brakes, which is a whole controversy with the 4runner in itself.

I am posting what worked for me to bleed the brakes and have a perfectly firm pedal which I copied and slightly modified from "Greasefingers" in this thread:http://www.toyota-4runner.org/mainte...ng-brakes.html

Note: I have a 2001 4runner with speedbleeders installed in each caliper, so do not attempt this procedure without speedbleeders.

1. Clean the area around the brake fluid reservoir. Open and set the cap off to the side. get as much of the old fluid out with a turkey baster. Refill with new brake fluid.
2. With the ignition off pump the brake pedal around 20 times or until it's somewhat firm.
3. put the key in the ignition and turn it to accessory (don't start it). The electronic pump will go on for about 45 seconds. Wait for the electronic pump to turn off.
4. with the key still on accessory, crack open the speed bleeder a half turn on the rear passenger side. Place plastic tubing at the end of the bleeder into a container to collect the old fluid.
5. start pumping the brakes being careful not to press the pedal down too far (this could damage the master cylinder). Some people will place books under the pedal to prevent over traveling of the pedal. Watch the fluid level, DO NOT allow the brake reservoir to run dry.
5. When no more bubbles come out of the bleeder and the fluid is clean, tighten the speed bleeder.
6. Next do the rear driver's side, then front passenger side, then the front driver's side.

*NOTES*
A.) When I first started doing this, I had the truck completely turned off (no key in the ignition). I started pumping the pedal and nothing came out of the rear passenger side brake line. I thought the speed bleeder was broken. I then put the key on "accessory." The electronic pump would then go off as I was pumping and then the fluid would go through the speed bleeders like it should. So the fluid doesn't come out the rear passenger side brake line unless the key is on accessory. I wonder if this is why people have bad results bleeding the brakes with other methods.

B.) The electronic pump will go off as you're pumping the brakes. If you continue to pump it will make a high pitched alert noise. When this noise started, I would then stop pumping the brakes and give the electronic pump time to "catch up." Once it stopped, I would then start pumping the brakes again and continue this process until all the old fluid and air bubbles were out.

This is the method that worked for me and I actually feel confident braking again. I hope this helps someone.

Texas_Ace

Yep, this is the old school method for bleeding brakes. Usually this is done with 2 people, 1 pumping and 1 filling the brake resivor.

A vacuum bleeder is a better method in that it sucks the little air bubbles from the caliper.

Old school works though, did it many times.