V8 4Runner - Webpage Update
05-03-2005, 08:01 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
V8 4Runner - Webpage Update
Hi Guys
After all these years I finally got around to updating my webpage with some new finished projects, although I still have to complete a few and there's more to start.
V8 4Runner
JD
After all these years I finally got around to updating my webpage with some new finished projects, although I still have to complete a few and there's more to start.
V8 4Runner
JD
05-03-2005, 04:09 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that rear housing and detroit locker setup is amazing work! You should have just bought an ARB or a toyota elocker but i have to hand it to you, the dana 44 is pretty sweet.
05-03-2005, 05:11 PM
#4
Awesome rig. You guys have more choices down there than we do. I remember when our ship visited Sydney, Perth, Darwin and Hobart and almost all I saw were tricked-out hiluxes. Good job.
George
George
05-03-2005, 05:36 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by heckler
....You should have just bought an ARB or a toyota elocker ....
Dudebud.
No problems at all and she's done over 205,000klm since the swap and a great engine as it never misses a beat. I've not had to replace any sensors or parts etc and it runs sweet as. My main wish now would be to get a full stock replacement coilover kit for the front. Total Chaos advised they are looking into it so fingers crossed.
George
I picked up a couple of guys from the forums when their ships visited us and we toured the wrecking yards (diesel engines
) and 4wd shops, LOL.JD
Last edited by JD; 05-03-2005 at 05:39 PM.
05-03-2005, 05:54 PM
#7
Originally Posted by JD
Aghh but thats why I did this as both these are open centres in normal mode, which is useless with a high HP V8. Fitting a Dana44 allowed me to use the new Detroit Electrac which is a Truetrac LSD in normal mode but it can also be fully locked.
Dudebud.
No problems at all and she's done over 205,000klm since the swap and a great engine as it never misses a beat. I've not had to replace any sensors or parts etc and it runs sweet as. My main wish now would be to get a full stock replacement coilover kit for the front. Total Chaos advised they are looking into it so fingers crossed.
George
I picked up a couple of guys from the forums when their ships visited us and we toured the wrecking yards (diesel engines ) and 4wd shops, LOL.
JD
Dudebud.
No problems at all and she's done over 205,000klm since the swap and a great engine as it never misses a beat. I've not had to replace any sensors or parts etc and it runs sweet as. My main wish now would be to get a full stock replacement coilover kit for the front. Total Chaos advised they are looking into it so fingers crossed.
George
I picked up a couple of guys from the forums when their ships visited us and we toured the wrecking yards (diesel engines
) and 4wd shops, LOL.JD
george
Trending Topics
05-04-2005, 03:30 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brian
I'll take some more tomorrow and post. I only have the rear connected at the moment as I'm still trying to find the time to finish the fronts.
JD
I'll take some more tomorrow and post. I only have the rear connected at the moment as I'm still trying to find the time to finish the fronts.
JD
05-04-2005, 04:54 AM
#11
Registered User
Originally Posted by JD
Hi Guys
After all these years I finally got around to updating my webpage with some new finished projects, although I still have to complete a few and there's more to start.
V8 4Runner
JD
After all these years I finally got around to updating my webpage with some new finished projects, although I still have to complete a few and there's more to start.
V8 4Runner
JD
I thought that you couldnt own v8s of any kind in australia? I remember something about the government down there outlawing them after a few stupid kids killed themselves with v8 equipped cars.... (It was OBVIOUSLY the v8's fault!! lol)
I say give everyone v12s and let the stupid weed themselves from the gene pool...LOL
Anyhow EXCELLENT work on the motor swap!!! So you going to put any more power adders? (Like boost or nitrous?)
05-04-2005, 06:03 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Someone's been peeing in your pocket, LOL.
Oz and rear wheel drive V8's are brothers.
Ford Oz has done some exotic things to some of your engines for our cars. Our current model performance Falcon engine is assembled here and uses a 5.4 block with Cobra DOHC heads but with a Ford Oz designed trumpet intake.
They also do wicked inline sixes with intercooled turbos etc. They are currently working on a twin turbo'd version. You can buy an awesome rear wheel drive 5.4 V8 ute with over 400HP and then there's a very active aftermarket industry to add some more. You need to visit. LOL
The last of the Windsors went out as a factory 347 with an awesome factory designed trumpet intake manifold. They tested all those available but decided to make their own as those tested weren't regarded as any good.
As far as mine goes, no its got more than enough, but one of those factory 347's would be nice............
JD
Oz and rear wheel drive V8's are brothers.
Ford Oz has done some exotic things to some of your engines for our cars. Our current model performance Falcon engine is assembled here and uses a 5.4 block with Cobra DOHC heads but with a Ford Oz designed trumpet intake.
They also do wicked inline sixes with intercooled turbos etc. They are currently working on a twin turbo'd version. You can buy an awesome rear wheel drive 5.4 V8 ute with over 400HP and then there's a very active aftermarket industry to add some more. You need to visit. LOL
The last of the Windsors went out as a factory 347 with an awesome factory designed trumpet intake manifold. They tested all those available but decided to make their own as those tested weren't regarded as any good.
As far as mine goes, no its got more than enough, but one of those factory 347's would be nice............
JD
Last edited by JD; 05-04-2005 at 06:06 AM.
05-04-2005, 06:03 AM
#13
Contributing Member
I am very impressed with your conversion (I viewed the old site quite a few times).
My biggest question is " are you seriously getting 12L/100km for mileage off that V8?
If so that is truly impressive because that would be around 20+ MPG.
My biggest question is " are you seriously getting 12L/100km for mileage off that V8?
If so that is truly impressive because that would be around 20+ MPG.
05-04-2005, 06:14 AM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jamie.
Yes no problems if I keep it steady around the 110kph area cruising. I have had it down to 10L/100 when cruising on a cold night at 90-100kph.
Given the 4Runners are not very aerodynamic I am more than happy with its current fuel useage as I have never had a V8 in a car !!! that would give me that. I even think it would be possible to get more if I detuned the engine for absolute economy etc but thats not going to happen, LOL.
JD
Yes no problems if I keep it steady around the 110kph area cruising. I have had it down to 10L/100 when cruising on a cold night at 90-100kph.
Given the 4Runners are not very aerodynamic I am more than happy with its current fuel useage as I have never had a V8 in a car !!! that would give me that. I even think it would be possible to get more if I detuned the engine for absolute economy etc but thats not going to happen, LOL.
JD
05-05-2005, 02:10 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brian
This is in the locked position.
Unlocked with free droop.
Holding it up in free travel. Total travel is around 5".
Let me know if you wanted different pics, LOL.
JD
This is in the locked position.
Unlocked with free droop.
Holding it up in free travel. Total travel is around 5".
Let me know if you wanted different pics, LOL.
JD
05-05-2005, 05:52 PM
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brian
No, as the opposite side is still fixed so its normal action moves the unlocked side up and down the disconnect internal sliders as you go over bumps but being free sliding no swaybar tension can be applied to either side etc.
But when this unit is turned off as soon as the two holes line up the locking pin slams into place as it is spring loaded and both are again fully operational.
ie, I had to unbolt the other side so I could freely move the disconnect up for the last pic as normally RH suspension travel would do this. When turned off just letting go of the bar was enough to relock as it dropped and wammo the pin instantly relocked it.
I have made some initial mods to one for the front but need to retest the actual amount of front swaybar movement if one side is free etc. It maybe possible that one disconnect will also be enough for the front. But I seem to think it will require two.
If so, it still won't be a problem with both being free sliding because as soon as one side lines up the locking holes due to the swaybar moving up and down etc the spring loaded pin will slam into place. The relocked side will then quickly move the opposite side into alignment.
I guess a smart idea would be to turn off all the disconnects just before finishing the last section of uneven ground so the uneven ground causes the bars to move back into relocked position.
When I get to finishing the front it won't take long to suss it all out
JD
No, as the opposite side is still fixed so its normal action moves the unlocked side up and down the disconnect internal sliders as you go over bumps but being free sliding no swaybar tension can be applied to either side etc.
But when this unit is turned off as soon as the two holes line up the locking pin slams into place as it is spring loaded and both are again fully operational.
ie, I had to unbolt the other side so I could freely move the disconnect up for the last pic as normally RH suspension travel would do this. When turned off just letting go of the bar was enough to relock as it dropped and wammo the pin instantly relocked it.
I have made some initial mods to one for the front but need to retest the actual amount of front swaybar movement if one side is free etc. It maybe possible that one disconnect will also be enough for the front. But I seem to think it will require two.
If so, it still won't be a problem with both being free sliding because as soon as one side lines up the locking holes due to the swaybar moving up and down etc the spring loaded pin will slam into place. The relocked side will then quickly move the opposite side into alignment.
I guess a smart idea would be to turn off all the disconnects just before finishing the last section of uneven ground so the uneven ground causes the bars to move back into relocked position.
When I get to finishing the front it won't take long to suss it all out
JD
05-05-2005, 07:46 PM
#19
Contributing Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort Worth/College Station, TX
Posts: 833
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hmm, I wish I could see a diagram of these just to see how they made it all work. I get the general concept from your description, but I'm the kind of person that would really need to see a diagram to get it.
05-05-2005, 10:00 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just think of it as if it was a small shock absorber as basically thats what it is
But the sliding shaft has a hole in it for the locking pin to go into and also a grove cut into it along its length that a small fixed pin on the body section sits in, ie to stop the hole from rotating
The top of the shaft in the body section has a normal seal setup like on a shock shaft and also on the bottom body section. The body section has a quantity of grease in it for general lubrication.
The cable has a locking pin attached to it but also a spring behind the pin. When the cable electrically withdraws the pin out of the shaft hole, this spring is squashed up etc. When turned off the cable extends outwards and the pin is then sitting freely in its socket section but spring loaded. When the hole appears it zaps into it and the shaft is once again locked solid.
Its clever and very simple.
I will post a pic tonight of the Oz mechanical operated cable disconnect I was going to use on the rear until I got this electric version. It is different again and uses a very clever set up much like a head valve collett.
JD
But the sliding shaft has a hole in it for the locking pin to go into and also a grove cut into it along its length that a small fixed pin on the body section sits in, ie to stop the hole from rotating
The top of the shaft in the body section has a normal seal setup like on a shock shaft and also on the bottom body section. The body section has a quantity of grease in it for general lubrication.
The cable has a locking pin attached to it but also a spring behind the pin. When the cable electrically withdraws the pin out of the shaft hole, this spring is squashed up etc. When turned off the cable extends outwards and the pin is then sitting freely in its socket section but spring loaded. When the hole appears it zaps into it and the shaft is once again locked solid.
Its clever and very simple.
I will post a pic tonight of the Oz mechanical operated cable disconnect I was going to use on the rear until I got this electric version. It is different again and uses a very clever set up much like a head valve collett.
JD
