Greedy

I have the URD fuel kit with the FTC in my 99, single cat 4runner. Is this something I should get? If so, are the benefits a better tune = more power/reliabilty? I went to the URD site and found this:

"The URD AFR Calibrator could be used by its self or with your current fuel controller. However it is best used in conjunction with a MAF signal calibrator like our Fuel/Timing Calibrator."

I thought that the FTC could tune in closed loop as well and was all I needed. I have just recently installed the fuel kit and not tuned yet. Should I be getting this before I put everything back together and start tuning?

TRDOLMAN

Greedy, not trying to be a smartass but if you read the complete description of the calibrator on the URD site, it gives a pretty damn good description of what it is and what it does.

The calibrator is used to smooth the transition from closed loop----14.7 AFR----to open loop----11.8/12.1 AFR. You can't use the FTC very well for this because the ECU will compensate for the fuel you added to try and smooth the "step". Understand that with a smaller pulley you can be in boost pretty high and still be at 14.7 AFR and still be in closed loop. The calibrator changes the signal from the AF sensor and "fools" the ECU. You can tune the calibrator map starting at around 0psi to drop the AFRs gradually from 14.7 to meet your open loop setting of 12.0. For example, you could set it to give you 14.0 @ 0psi, 13.7 @ 1 psi, 13.4 @ 2psi, 13 @ 3 psi, 12.5 @ 4psi, and 12.0 at 5 psi. All the while, the ECU thinks you are at 14.7. Guys that have installed the calibrator all say they have gained good midrange power because they are not running lean in low boost closed loop anymore. I think it's worth the money for sure and recommend you install it.

If I were you I would do this in this order:

1. Read Gadget's U-tune guide about 6 times before you start anything.

2. Save all of the FTC base maps to the hard drive on your laptop including the map in the calibrator if you get it.

3. ZERO out map B on the FTC. (the timing map)

4. Tune the closed loop portion of the FTC map A. Check and recheck it until you feel you have your fuel trims as close to Zero as you can.

5. Tune the open loop portion of the FTC map A.

6. When you are happy with the tune of Map A, install the AFR calibrator. Check your AFRs in lowboost. Tune the AFR calibrator if necessary. The base map should not be very far off. Gadget spent a lot of time on the calibrator map that came preloaded.

7. After you have the calibrator set, go back and retune the closed and open loop on the FTC. (it will change after calibrator is tuned)

8. Only after you have Map A on the FTC and the map on the calibrator completely tuned do you start adjusting Map B (the timing map) on the FTC. You will probably find most of the pinging will be cured with a good tune of the FTC and calibrator and you will only have to retard timing in a few cells.

I'm sure Gadget or one of the tuning jocks on here could explain it better to you but I did the best I can.

I have yet to tune a URD AFR Calibrator but my friends that have say it's pretty easy.

Always Greedy----if you are confused or need info, contact URD directly. They will answer your questions.

Dave

Greedy

Thank olman. I thought that this was the case. However, when I contacted URD with this same question, I was told by Brian the following:

"Gregg,
The PCU is the FTC. We need to put this on our site for clarity.
Best,
Brian"

I have read the U-Tune guide repedatley and am getting a grip on the relationships between the different tuning inputs. Now I just need to figure out how to actually do it. Thank for yor help, I am going to begin tuning this upcoming weekend..