cabbage

Gonna try to keep this short, unless you guys like longs stories hmm...

Well, my CV axle fell apart (again actually on the same side too) when I was at Big Falls last Saturday. I believe the main reason is because of the auto locker/lsd in the front differential, its usually almost impossible to turn on one way trails with my hubs locked. My power steering belt was squealing so loud last Saturday that I knew something would go out, I was ready for the belt to snap and loose power steering but instead, the CV axle popped out of it's rear body throwing 2 bearings out (when I was on a flatter area).

I was thinking about taking the front locker out, when I replace both CV axles. So I took the differential off today as well as the two CV's. The reasons I want to take it out are:
1. I need to shift to 4wd alot when I go to the broccoli fields (my family exports produce) and then shift back to 2wd when I get on the road, but I have to jump out and lock/unlock my hubs because of my front locker.
2. I cant turn on tighter trails, my arms get sour the next day after I go wheeling because of the battling with the steering wheel...

Anyways, while the differential is out, what do you guys think? Don’t have the money for an ARB right away or regearing (really need to do this first) should I keep this auto locker in or take it out? Or just wait for a few months while I take a welding class so I can do a SAS? Or should I keep the differential and go 2wd for a few months until I have enough money for a ARB and regearing…. Help! So many possibilities… Let me know what you think!

Thanks!

cabbage

Almost forgot! I have a 86 4Runner 22re, 228,000miles (if that makes any difference) running on 33x12.5's have cranked t-bars up front, rancho lift (I believe) and a Ball Joint spacer lift.

Mossback74

I vote for ARB but only if you do not want to lift it any more. If you want to go higher, SAS. And you really need to regear with 33s on that 4 banger

FirstToy

Milton,
Fix your body mounts first so you don't launch yourself into the middle of an intersection!

I think you should just take it out since it's such a PITA. You might need the 4wd sooner than you think and then you'll be screwed waiting to save up for the ARB locker.

that's my vote!

Tacoma Dude

I agree with FirstToy - you'll need the 4WD but you should definitely take that sucker out! You planning on going full out ARB front and rear at the same time?

By the way, sorry I missed you - I had my monitor and sound off :pat:

BruceTS

personally, If I owned a 2nd gen SAS would be my first option, but it will cost quite a bit more than an ARB locker.

cabbage

Thanks guys for the replies! Lets see... Schools about to start so I wont be going down the fields as much, and wheeling would be maybe 2 times a month since Im taking more classes this semester... my next wheeling trip is maybe Pismo 2.5 and surf and turf in november, I think I can do Pismo in 2Lo just have to air down way low

Im leaning towards going pre-runner for a few months till I come up with some $$$ then regear and... It was SO hard to take the CV's and differential out! The set up I have now is like the worst for changing anything down there... Diff drop + BJ spacers = lower a-arm so close to the CV's that they wont come out unless I undo the lower ball joint.....

I tried going on pavement in 2wd with the hubs locked (I have manual hubs)... NOT FUN, still cant turn , I love my manual hubs but sometimes a auto would be nice (I have to jump out 3~4 times a "field day" locking and unlocking my hubs )

Yoda

It sounds to me like it is permanently in lock mode. What kind (brand) of locker/LSD is it? Is it a locker or an LSD?

cabbage

Not sure what kind is in there ... but its not permanently locked, I was rotating the imput shaft after the differential was out yesterday and with one side on the ground (not moving) the other side still rotated (backwards too).

cabbage

I was wrong about my differential not being permently locked... Finally got the cover to come of by accident...

So there is no auto locker/LSD to take out

Time for new gears and hmmm ARB's! So Im gonna go pre-runner for sure now, save up for the gears and ARB's

sschaefer3

You don't need new gears, they just welded the diff, which you can get from a bone yard for 20-40 bucks.


Yes a front welded diff is pretty unfriendly. Am auto locking diff would have been alot better, an ARB or tru-track would be idea.

cabbage

Do ARB's replace the side gears (the gears inside, forgot what they are called... spider gears?)
I need to regear anyways, does anyone know how to count the spines to see what gears I have right now (in case it isnt stock)? Im thinking about going to 4.88's

sschaefer3

Yes, an ARB and a Tru-trac both replace the entire diff carrier.

cabbage

Ahh.... I get it now! Thanks Steve!

toy283

Opposed to taking it out, just lock one hub from now on until you swap in your ARB. With a welded diff, one locked hub will allow one tire to pull good but maintain your steering. I've been running for a few trail runs without an axleshaft on one side (thrashed housing), a welded front and one hub and been doing just fine, even on some more difficult obstcles.