Randyman...

Hello,

I just installed a 200 Amp Delco CS-144 alternator in my 1999 Tacoma V6 4x4, and I have a quick Q on "stock" Fusebox wiring upgrades. This alternator was installed for a high-power audio system capable of drawing 300 Amps and more. I already upgraded the Alternator-to-Battery, Battery-to-Block, and Battery-to-Chassis wires ("The Big 3") with 0Ga, and I disconnected the "stock" Alternator B+ Feed at both ends (at Alternator, and at the Fuseblock). I have a dedicated 1/0 run from the battery to the audio system.

Even though I have no aftermarket items passing through the "stock" under-hood fusebox itself, I'd like to increase the wire from the Battery to the Fusebox (since the Alternator's +14V current must now travel through this puny wire to feed the "stock" electrical system - opposed to the alternator connected directly to the fusebox in "stock form" - make sense?).

So, the "stock" battery-to-fuseblock wire is essentially a "Fusible Link" from what I gather (thin enough to "burn through" with sustained over-current). I'd like to remove that puny wire, and use an 8Ga or 4Ga wire from the Battery to the old Alternator Input connection on the fusebox (since the alternator connection is no longer being used). The "stock" Alternator Input is already passed through an 80Amp Fuse in the stock fuse box, so this would eliminate the need for any extra fuses (or a fusible link).

Is my idea correct? If I remove the "stock" battery-to-fusebox wire, and run a fresh 8Ga wire from the Battery to the "stock" Alternator Fusebox connection (labeled "Charge" with an 80-Amp fuse on the Fusebox) - this will essentially put an 80Amp fuse between the Battery/Alt and the stock electrical system?

If this is correct, then I think this is a killer way to upgrade the puny fusible link w/o having to add any extra fusing.

Thanks, and this place kicks ass! I was looking everywhere for a Toyota-to-Delco Alternator Harness Adaptor, and I ran across a thread here (using Google) that mentioned "Northwest Regulator/AmFor Electronics" ( http://www.nwreg.com/products/ ), and they had EXACTLY what I needed for $10! Thanks!

I'd appreciate any thought to my Fusebox understanding. I think this is correct, but removing the "stock" 80-Amp alternator fuse seems to be more work that it's worth just to test for continuity (to verify my theory)...

PA - I also have a 1987 4-Runner 4x4 waiting on a V-8 conversion. I love my 4x4 Yota's

Thanks again