BajaRunner

Well my air conditioning has had intermittent problems the last 2 years.

The sight glass shows no fluid. Where the hoses intersect at the sight glass, I can see a slight residue from what I assume to be is the R-134a/oil. I'm fairly certain I have a leak. And that might not be the only one.

I'd like to replace the O-rings, but do not know where to buy them...do I need to buy through Toyota or are they a "standard" metric size I could get at Home Depot?

What is the proper way to depressurizing the air conditioning system?

I will also be buying a two can package with a gauge to refill. Will this be sufficient?

DailyDrive

Don't buy anything at Home Depot for your Toyota, except maybe some wood blocks to use while jacking it up.

You can depressurize it the same way you do a tire, depress fill valve to release refrigerant.

You can't really use those store cans after opening the system. The system will need to be vacuumed out of all the oxygen with a special vacuum pump. Might as well bring it to a shop at this point.

Ironmike4x4

NO NO NO NO NO! Do NOT release it into the atmosphere, granted the argument is still that it's not harmful for the ozone layer but if caught you will face a big fat fine. If you are unlicensed it's not as bad but for someone like me with certification to do A/C work then it's a career killer as far as A/C repair specialty.

You can buy O-rings from certain auto parts stores but I'd highly recommend NAPA as they deal mostly to dealerships with aftermarket products (at least the ones in my area do). Instead of just chasing the problem I would highly suggest just buying a kit to inject dye into it and running for a week or so. Then go back with a black light and yellow glasses and trace the leak. I will say in my experiences 75% of the time it's the compressor that leaks but I'm mostly speaking for the GM side of things. Often times I can just look at a compressor after adding the leak kit and see it w/ bare eyes around the compressor without a black light.

Option 2 is more expensive but if you want to "chase" the problem I would go to a certified shop and have them to evacuate the refrigerant (NOT freon- sorry pet peeve of mine). The replace the o-rings or whatever you want to replace, then have them to pull vacuum and recharge system.

DailyDrive

Well OBVIOUSLY you have to look around first, check the bushes too, to make sure there is no environmental protection agency police hiding.

BajaRunner

Good point about evacuating the oxygen out when you charge the system. I don't have the tool to do this.

So I have read other posts saying: "depressurize system, replace o-ring, and repressurize system" like its no big deal. I personally wouldn't evacuate the R-134a into the atmosphere without doing it the "right" way but... hm...

So I guess I'll get the dye, and make sure I know where the leak is and take it to a garage?! :/

Ironmike4x4

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Venting into atmosphere is wrong and just plain stupid.
You won't need to take it to a shop to add dye. Get the kit that allows you to inject it manually. I realize it is a cost involved into taking it to a shop but gotta do what you can. Plus pulling the valve like that is dangerous as the refrigerant burns badly (freeze burn).

After diagnosing the problem then you can just do the repair then buy the store bought cans of refrigerant to add to it. I will warn you though, the kit I bought once that comes with the low side hose with the gauge made into it is junk. It does fine putting the refrigerant into the system but when recovering it last summer to pull a longer vacuum (makes it cooler) after recovery I got close to 7oz of oil!! IIRC the spec was 3oz for the entire system.

DailyDrive

Nobody is venting into the atmosphere, BajaRunner stated "the sight glass shows no fluid", which can count as a good faith effort to make sure the system is empty. The EPA does not specify any evacuation procedures for the R-134a, so simply checking the sight glass is good enough, and he can open the system then and be perfectly within the law.

Are you sure you are a real A/C tech? Adding DIY goop dye is the last thing anybody should do. That's why they invented electronic leak detectors for quite some time now.

PismoJoe

Ironmike4x4

Not going to start an E-war with you or anything. YES you can use electronic leak detectors but for the cost do you really think it's worth it? I doubt it unless you do enough A/C work for to justify personal use. Dye is great and usually an ounce is good enough GM even sells it to us in 1oz bottles. I am unaware as to WHY adding dye is the last thing you want to do? Our practice is when a customer complains of an A/C problem is to look for any obvious problems (fuses, compressor belt worn or missing, cooling fans operating, etc) then see if there are any obvious signs of leaks with either electronic leak detector or black light, which ever the tech prefers. Then we will recover, pull vacuum, add dye, then recharge. We then ask customers to drive for a week or so and come back for a follow up to find the leak.

I'll man up enough to admit I didn't fully read the OP's "sight glass appears to be empty." I just skimmed through and saw your post saying to press the valve which by the EPA does say it's unlawful to release it into the atmosphere. Read #2 here http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/608/faq.html#q2

Ironmike4x4

Yep sure can, unfortunately most shops (including mine) find it more expensive labor wise to rebuild or repair a compressor therefore it's cheaper to buy a new one and some even come w/ a warranty depending on brand and what shop installed it. Hijack: where can you buy compressor parts anyways? I've been thinking of repairing mine off my '87 truck as the clutch is worn out and feels rough.