Uisge Beathe

I just did a complete rebuild of my 3RZ and I'm having some starting issues, here's a couple of obligatory pictures.








It started fine and ran fine for about two days. I went to get it smogged and not all of my monitors had reset yet (evap, ox, etc) so it wouldn't even communicate with their computer and would not pass smog. So I managed to find the Tacoma specific driving tests required to reset the monitors, I was out on an back road doing the driving tests, turned off the truck to look at the paperwork and would not start.

Turn the key, one click (relay I assume)..and that was it. Got someone to try to jump start me and...nothing. Turn key, one click..that's it. They helped me push start the truck and I drove to Walmart to replace the battery, figured it had sat a while during the rebuild so replaced it for new. Turn key...one click...that's it.

Figured it might be the starter solenoid so I picked up a "new" (O'reilly reman) starter, put it in, turn key...one click...that's it. I could've and probably should've pulled the original starter and had them bench test it to save me the cost of a starter but once I pulled the starter I was going to be stuck at home, wife was gone for a while in the other car so just went ahead and replaced it.

Push started the truck, volt meter on 12v and I was getting 11.25 at "new" starter and at new battery. So...I'm thinking alternator...it is after all a couple of years old and is a "new" remanufactured alternator so maybe it lived it's reman'd life.

Put a "new" alternator on...turn key...click, click, click.

Push start the truck, drive it around a bit, park at the house, turn the key and it starts.

Next morning, turn key...one click...that's it.

Push start the truck drive to O'reilly have them test the system. Alternator putting out good voltage, I forget what the guy said it was at but said it looked good. Shut truck off to test battery, it took about 5 tries because his handheld kept saying to check connections (His clamps) to the battery. Finally got the clamps on and to stay on...tested the battery and battery passed "Good".

Turn the key...one click...that's it.

Tried a new starter relay since I was now stuck at O'reilly anyway...no change...turn key...one click...that's it.

Push start the truck, get home and with my multimeter set on 20 DCV instead of 12V I was reading 12.26 at starter, at battery and at alternator.

Turn key off, turn key on...one click...that's it.

Checked ign and sta fuses on the panel and they are good.

Double checked both plugs and both posts on starter and alternator...ground wire to block is snug/tight.

I have stared at the problem for too long and need to step away for a bit...I'm going to take my original starter to O'reilly to have them bench test it. If it's good then it's relatively safe to rule out a starter issue.


I'm open to all suggestions, thanks in advance

cman1

iTrader: (1)

there is also a ground from the back of the head to the firewall I believe. also check to see if you have a fuseable link from your batt to your fuse box on the fender.

Uisge Beathe

Hmm...that might be the culprit right there. Ground wire from firewall to the back of the head either came loose or was never hooked up. I'm guessing it came loose since the truck started and ran perfect for the first two days.

Problem now is as I'm looking at it I have no idea where to bolt that ground wire to. The ring terminal on it is pretty tiny, I don't have any bolts that are small enough to fit through the ring terminal...let alone see a place with threads to receive such a small bolt.

I've been through my FSM and I don't see a wiring diagram or picture with the location of all the grounds anywhere, not saying that it isn't in there but I'm not finding it. I think wiring harness is a different publication, isn't it?

I know on the 22-RE's that ground wire was secured with the same bolt, on the head, that holds the lifting hook but like I said the ring terminal on this sucker is tiny.

RAD4Runner

Don't throw parts, time and money on the problem. Find out exactly what is not doing what it's supposed to do and why.
Find out exacty what's clicking. C.O.R.? Starter relay? Starter solenoid?
Mind posting the schematic of your starting circuit to help others help you?

Also, different parts but similar concept and troubleshooting here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199.../#post51947533

Kiroshu

Sounds like a poor ground to me.

-Check battery terminal connections clamps secure/tight..?

-Battery ground(s).

-Body ground(s).

-Engine ground(s).

Signal wire connection on starter motor solenoid...?

Uisge Beathe

connection good

There is one thing I found not connected and I'm not sure where it goes.

Kiroshu

That looks like a cable for the climate control.

Uisge Beathe

Thanks Kiroshu...in the back of my head I knew that was the heater control cable but it was just one of those moments where I was hoping to be wrong and it was some elusive ground that I was looking for.

Hooked the heater control valve cable back up, went back over all of my grounds and wiped them with acetone and where they bolt to the block, manifold, etc.

Cleaned my starter and alternator plugs with CRC Electronic Cleaner and dried them out with my compressor blow gun.

Put my battery on a trickle charger overnight and now it starts just fine.

Can't say for sure which of those was the issue but I'm now getting 14.xx at the battery, starter and alternator with engine on.

I knew it was something stupid, but I had just stared at the problem for too long and needed to walk away and come back to it.

Thank you everyone that responded.

Kiroshu

Glad you found your problem(s).

AppalachianOffRoader

Well, I have an 89 p/u with a 22re, but I actually just had and fixed this same exact problem today.

Come out in the AM, turn key, one click "˟˟˟˟˟˟"(face/palm).

Check voltage on the battery, it was good. Checked all my fuses, they was a fusin just fine! Whacked on the starter with a hammer a couple times, turned key and still just the one click. I happened to have a newly reman'd starter laying around, so I swapped it. Still just got the one click.

I touched a jumper cable from the positive battery post to the terminal lug on the starter, and had a buddy turn the key. It fired right up.

I replaced the positive battery wire/terminal lug combo for about $20. And it's started and run just fine ever since.