hillbilly

Finished my Hayden auxillary cooler install, transmission filter/pan cleaning and complete flush with Amsoil ATF over the weekend. Definitely a DIY type job. Not bad at all. The tranny flush tends to be a bit messy, but what I learned this round will prevent the mess from happening next time.

Prop's to Gadget and all of you for giving me the feedback & confidence to do it myself. Save some $$$$.

The only thing I'd change the next time is I'd get a new tranny filter as opposed to cleaning the old one. I used a 1+ of brake cleaner (fill - shake - dump). After a ½ dozen rinsings I could still see fine particles of metal on the screen after dumping it out. I bet I spent 30+ minutes or better rinsing that thing out before I could no longer see anything. I'd be willing to bet there's isn't a shop in town that would've spent 30+ minutes rinsing the filter to get it completely clean. Anyway, the $20-30 for a new filter would be quicker/easier with peace of mind knowing nothings floating around in there.

Next up: changing the gear boxes over to Amsoil, rear diff breather extension, and deckplate mod.

Bob_98SR5

Hillbilly,

I got you covered on 2 of the 3 mods on your next list:

Front/Rear diffs + Transfer case to Amsoil
http://www.4runners.org/articles/difftsf

Rear Diff Breather (Type R)
http://www.4runners.org/articles/typerdiff

Bob

russellcframe

Hey. Glad to hear you got it done.

Did you do the flush via the cooler lines and bucket method?

I'm wondering how that worked for you, since I couldn't seem to get anything to come out.

hillbilly

Thanks for the links Bob!

russellcframe:
Yep, I used the "cooler line/bucket" method. Did you turn the engine on?? Without the engine running the transmission pump can't turn to pump the fluid. Since its a 'close' system, the transmission fluid will drain very poorly or not at all unless you vent it. If you did have the engine running, and nothing came out you may have bigger problems (i.e. plugged filter, crimped/plugged cooler line, problem with the core cooler, or no fluid at all).

russellcframe

Yep, I had it running. Weird. I'll have to play around with it some more.

By venting do you mean removing the dipstick? I don't think I did that, I figured since I had both the inlet and outlet hoses disconnected that would do the trick.

hillbilly

No. I was speaking in generic terms when I said 'venting a closed system'. To get the tranny fluid out without the engine running, you'd have to vent it by disconnecting the other cooler line (feed side), but this would only drain the core transmission cooler and maybe pull a smidge out of the pan. The valves/torque converter in the transmission prevent the fluid from flowing out of the system freely without the aid of a pump.

Think of it as a ketchup bottle. When you turn the bottle upside down, sometimes the ketchup is right there at the tip ready to come out, but it can't/won't come out until you let some air in (vent it). Most people to do this by using a knife or repeatedly hitting the bottom (or for an extreme example - drill a hole in the bottom of the bottle).

russellcframe

Yep I understand what you mean about the closed system.

Hmmm, sure hope there isn't some other problem there....it sounds like I was doing it right, just didn't get much of anything to come out.

System was full of fluid.

Both hoses disconnected.

Engine was running.

hillbilly

Leave the return line connected and disconnect the output line (drivers side on my 3.4) and put that into a bucket (securely). Fire up the engine. That should definitely pump so fluid out. If it still doesn't come out there something going on (pump failure/filters plugged/transmission is general in clogged).

If it does pump out, shut down the engine. Re-connect the output line and dump what you collected back into the tranny (via dipstick tube). Now disconnect the return line put that securely into a bucket and fire it up again. You should see/hear it pumping out. If not, somethings got your cooler lines or core cooler (radiator) locked up (plugged/crimped).