Spectre

Before you all jump on me for the "search" button..I used it and I found nothing for me.

I want to know...with a 2001 4runner SR5 ..can I put on a factory toyota e-locker on, or does the wiring for the darn center diff lock get in the way?
or would you all suggest another locker? ARB? Detroit?
can you pot the toyot Elocker on the front like you can the ARB?
sorry..I'm still a new guy

transalper

You would just need to find another place for the switch. The retrofit wiring can be totally separate.

If you have the cash and use your rig as a daily driver, go for the e-locker or ARB. Both are great units.

Nope. Go ARB!

Spectre

would you mix n match factory e on the back and ARB in the front...or would you go all ARB front and back?

transalper

Hmmmmm? I have the ARB front and e-locker rear combo and am very happy with the setup. I'm sure I would be equally pleased with dual ARBs. Dual ARBs would have probably cost me around $400 more than what I spent. I have a cost breakdown at the bottom of my install writeup: http://www.geocities.com/transalper/lockers.htm

Spectre

How do you like the Viair 450 Compressor..and why did you not get the arb compressor?

transalper

I like it. The ARB compressor is fine for lockers but is kinda weak for airing up tires. The Viar 450 is 100% duty cycle and puts out almost twice as much air as the ARB.

Spectre

Thank you..

Spectre

How about the rest of you? what do you all use? does anyone else mix the air compressor with the ARB? doesn't the ARB locker come with a compressor?

there is no way to put on a factory 4runner e-locker on the front??

if not I think I will go ARB locker on both the front and back..but I would rather have an E-locker then an air locker

has used an Aussie locker? I ahve seen the ad and read the thing on here..but I want to know how well it works..

p.s. bump

rimpainter.com

We are still waiting for Mr. Bill Cole of Aussie Locker to get done with the R&D on the unit for the 3rd gens. I am on the waiting list, so rest assured I will post as soon as they release it.

You are kinda comparing apples and oranges with the ARB and the Aussie. I am choosing to go with the Aussie because it is relatively easy to install compared the ARB and the E-locker retrofit, and it is way cheaper. $200 is my kinda range. Keep in mind the AL is a full-time locker that disengages when turning (its supposed to anyway). If you can handle some clicking and two wheels putting power to the ground in almost every situation, than the Aussie is for you. If you want full control over your locker, then ARB or the E-locker your ticket.

Spectre

so the aussie is like a spool or auto locker or limited slip? and the other two are selectable.

my rig is a daily driver..

a click or two around croners is ok..but I would rather it be totally open until I need it locked..

I do not know what the heck I want :cry: oh well, such is life

Darren

There are a few others that have ARB fronts and e-locker rears.

Why would you prefer the e-locker over the ARB, other than it being potentially less?

rwmorrisonjr

The only drawback I can think of for the e-locker retrofit on the 2001 is that the wiring & ECU for the Multi-Mode system is completely different and the wiring for the e-locker is nonexistant. You'll have to wire in a complete e-locker system including the ECU and interface it with the Multi-Mode system for it to work "stock". AS for the ARB's, I'm leaning toward them with the Vlair compressor when I have the money due to the relative cost & ease of installation.

rimpainter.com

For you ARB guys, after all is said and done, what would be the best deal for everything you need to lock the rear?

(Installation not included)

Darren

Are you looking for a price breakdown? Jay (transalper) linked his costs above for the front, which would be pretty close. Mike recently quoted me $630 for the locker (recent price increase), $210 for the compressor, then Jay added ~$100 for misc. parts, if I read that correctly. You might be able to lower those prices only by a little by shopping around. I seem to recall a previous link in the past to a place where the compressor was a bit less, but I think all you would need to do is to make a local call to Mike and be done with it.

transalper

I had a few extra costs for the front ARB because I used the viair 450 compressor and needed some extra parts (tank, pressure switch, etc). Basic costs for the rear ARB (parts only) would be around $840 +-.

transalper

That's not necessarily a drawback. The e-locker can be wired to just turn on and off and it will provide the same function as the ARB - the rear will be locked. Of course you can get fancy with the e-locker and wire up the dash indicator light (highly recommended) and probably use the same curcuit to disable the ABS (I'm working on that one), but why make it more complicated than it needs to be? Wiring the e-locker is not that difficult and takes about as much time as wiring/installing the ARB compressor.

I'm not trying to sway anybody one way or the other. I've only had the e-locker for a short while, but had a rear ARB in my last rig. Both did what they were designed to do, which is get me burried even deeper.

Spectre

That is what I was asking...if there was going to be any problem for people who do not have the partial wiring of the system.

I guess I am looking more to the ARB. does most of the people who have the ARB lockers also use the ARB compressor..or do you use a bigger more powerful one?

transalper

There shouldn't be any unique problems with wiring the e-locker in a 2001 versus wiring it up in a 1997. A retrofit e-locker doesn't act exactly like a "stock" e-locker, and most owners don't really want it to. Stock e-lockers require you to be in 4lo and under 5mph to engage. It's handy to be able to turn the e-locker on in 2wd or 4hi, just like the arb.

Most use the ARB compressor because it is the ARB compressor. Plus it comes with all the wiring, pressure switch, dash switch, and has a small integrated air tank. It makes the install very easy. The locker switch, solenoid, and air lines come with the locker.

Mad Chemist

Theres some great information being posted here. Another thing I'd add is that there's something to be said for having the same technology front and back. For myself, who already had the elocker in back, I'd just go ARB up front and be done. But if I didn't have either, I'd probably do front and back arbs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but with the ARBS, if the compressor craps out, the diffs will unlock since they need the positive pressure of the compressor to stay locked. The elocker (I think) will remain locked if you run into problems with the switch, wiring, etc. This could be a problem once you hit pavement again and couldn't unlock your diffs. The odds of this happening are pretty low, but just one more thing to think about. The front diff is too small to house the elocker, so it just isn't possible. The advantage of getting the ARBS is that you're set up with onboard air for airing up tires now.

I think most people would agree that the biggest gains will be seen with the first locker in the rear, and more "marginal" gains locking the front. If it were me, I'd just get the rear ARB installed, wheel a little while, see how you like it, see if you're getting stuck. You might find out that the rear is all you need for the wheeling that you do, and save some money in the process. On the other hand, if 4 months down the road, you decide to lock the front, you're already setup with with the air compressor.

One more thing, then I'll shutup. If you plan on running bigger tires at some point, it might not be a bad time to regear at the same time as well. You could get two replacement diffs set up with new gears/arb lockers, and be done.

RTdawgs

if the e-locker fails, driving on pavement with the rear locked isnt the end of the world, it works to get you home or to a shop. then once their, the e-locker can be manually disengaged.