Jackpot2

Was gonna say visc fan but reread and saw its solid. What about the water pump?

Are you refilling the cooling system with heaters fully on. Disconnect the the 'out' hose somewhere near the thermostat housing and make sure you have good stong flow to eliminate the core from the equation.

Faulty thermostat? Put it in a pot of water and boil it and watch to see if it opens as it should

That said, I have no experience of a 2LIIT as mines a 13 year old 2LT

aviator

linky no worky
Seiously sound like a sweet mod set up. When i get some cash saved i think i'll have to look into a swap for one of those 1kzte diesels if they are as cheap as 4runner4ever says.

4runner4ever

I hope I didn't give the impression that those are free over here.
Cars and parts are way more expensive over here, plus shipping large heavy parts overseas is a financial pain also.
Plus most wreckers cut off the wiring instead of unplugging it, so getting the right ECU, wiring and other small parts is a major pain in the ass.
Front clips are also rare over here.
So mostly I buy a (wrecked) donor and strip it.

I have driven toyota diesels for about 12 years. I never encountered cooling problems with any diesel swap.
Not even with the 13B-T (3.4 4 cyl) engine. I almost allways use electric fans and new diesel radiators.
If I remember correctly (I have only seen 2 22RE's so far) the diesel radiator is 1 row thicker than the gas version.
A well know problem with the 2L-T's is that air gets trapped in the cilinderhead if the coolant has been drained fully. This caused overheating, temp. fluctuations and if not fixed; a new cilinderhead.
These engines are notorious for that.

natalshark

4runner4ever,

what you said now would make sense. How would i rid the system of the air-lock then ? Something like what Jackpot2 mentioned with the heater hoses?

4runner4ever

That will probably work. Best method is a vacuum bleeding system.
Fill up with coolant so the coolant overflows, start it, switch the heaters on and leave the coolant cap off. If you have air pockets inside you most likely see some bubbles emerging.
Make sure all your hoses, pump etc are in good condition, radiator is not blocked, fan works etc.

Does it run well, and the only problem is overheating? Beside this possible cause you could have a small crack in the cilinderhead. If only the smallest amount off coolant gets in you get a hotter burn. Plus the diesel and coolant combined produce a strong acid when combusted. This effect will slowly eat away all soft steel, like cilinder walls, combustion chamber etc. A possible negative side effect is compressed air getting pumped into the cooling system. Which maybe causing air pockets.

P.S.: pressurize the coolant system to make sure you don't have a head gasket failure or craked cilinderhead. I replace 1 or 2 heads a year with problems like that. Myself I used 2 heads in about 10 years, including hard core wheeling and some looong trips.

PS. 2: before you do anything, take off the coolant cap and take a sniff off the coolant. If it smells like diesel you're

Sorry for the long reply, got nothing to do right now

Greg_Canada

I see turbo diesel 84-87 4runners and trucks for sale up here about once a month or so. Dunno what the importing laws are tho...

ianshoots

Hey not to hi-jack, but I saw that you have an RB body lift-just wondering if ireland is the farthest he's shipped-anyone got one in africa or austrailia?

EWAYota

whats the hp and rear torque specs?

Ilovemountains

I have been thinking about doing an engine swap for long time, I too love the thought of a diesel but my rig is an 88 with a 3.0 and an auto trans . If my bell housing is removable which Im not sure of just yet could this engine swap be done? I have a feind at Best Foreign Auto that hooks me up with great deals, I will have to see what kind of price he could get me an engine for. If you have time let me know what you think!!!!!!!!

Bumpin' Yota

your homegate link does not work....

natalshark

No probem with the long response.

I'm planning on changing the timing belt when i return back to South Africa, and will then replace the water pump as a precautionary measure.

She has been tested for gas leakage into the radiator at the radiator speacilists, and tests clear.
coolant stays clear even after running so hot on and off and standing for 9 weeks at a time.

With her standing my heater control valve seized up, i did'n't bother with this as the weather is not so cold all year round that i need a heater, but i will add that on my list when i take her in.

She runs graet, i had her on the dyno and were pushing out better than factory specs. They turned the boost and fuel down a tad because of the overheating, but she stills pulls fine, until she starts to get warm, and drops slightly in performance, but not that much that would make me think there is a problem. She starts on the turn even from cold in the winter mornings.
Radiator is brand new, extra core and efficient fins. The only other thing besides having a possible air-lock or water jacket blockage that i can think of is that maybe she has a slight crack between the cylinders in the head area.
If this were so, would i be able to pick this up ?

I've been thinking the wrong way round here, in that i would pick up oil or gas in the radiatior, but what you say is that it could be water entering the cylinder ?

I'll have to look into them pressurising the system also.

Thanks to all for the input, really appreciate it.
I will only be able to give you feedabck when i go back home, so keep a look out here after January, i'll let you all know what the results were.

Nix_Toy

The link probalby doesn't work anymore 'cause it was posted over a year ago...

-MaTTi-

23-26.5 mpg (US gallon) with 4Runner 3.0TD -94 (1KZ-T). I like the motor, 125 hp/295 Nm (218 lb.ft), just optimal I think.

rhd

back from the dead


now...i've got an 85 efi SR5.....would one of these bolt up in my chassis?

1989toy4wd

I would love to have a diesel, with gas prices the way they are.

I think we all will be shifting to diesel soon, IMHP I dont think that hydrogen or fuel cell cars are going to be in our future. I mean we have been using diesels for a very long time, and there really hasnt been much change in that field if you really think about it compared to gasoline engines. And hybrids are just straight up garbage!!! I mean has anyone read a diesel power magazine lately, nearly every automaker is designing a diesel!!

Potomacduck

A few thoughts:

I love diesels. I had 4 VW diesels in my time, I was deeply immersed in everything about them.

But there are tons of myths surrounding them. First, that they give much better mileage. Well, in a small, light car like a VW they can give you 40+ mpg, but remember, that's a light car with tall gears, not a heavy SUV, with offroad tires etc.

In trucks, a diesel engine usually gives about 25% better fuel mileage. You make major sacrifices in acceleration and throttle response to achieve that. Those who say they aren't giving up acceleration, uh, er, well, sit in their passenger seat with a stopwatch sometime. Suddenly the anecdotal evidence will evaporate.

Another myth is that the maintenance is cheaper. Not on your life! Real diesel parts are extremely expensive. You think ordinary Toyota parts are expensive? Ask the dealer for Toyota Diesel parts and they will introduce you to Uncle Big Bill. Call Toyota and ask for a price on a cylinder head for a gas engine as opposed to a diesel. Make sure you are sitting down at the time. Cracked heads are common on diesels.

Do the math sometime on the fuel economy. My 3.4 liter gas enigine gives me about 19 mpg. I check at each fill up. One of the European diesel drivers here claims about 25 mpg (diesel).

Without boring you with the math, that means a diesel swap with a USED engine and matched transmission that costs you $4,000 installed (optimistic) will take you over 100,000 miles before you ever break even! (I can show you the math if you want). That's with zero maintenance in that 100,000 miles by the way.

Don't get me wrong, I love diesels, they are a "10" on the cool scale, but anyone thinking that they will save money in a diesel engine swap might be fooling himself.

Bumpin' Yota

Care to take a spin in our 2006 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel? An 8000lb truck cutting a 1.7s 60' and turning in a 13.8-14.2 on the 1/4 mile with nothing more than exhaust and SCT tuner is a beautiful thing. (1.5k-2k in mods) And due to how easily and cheaply you go from 325hp/570tq (stock) to ~485hp/1100tq (SCT tuner) this aint a freak and is quite common actually.

The powerstroke (without SCT or exhaust) has already stomped a mudhole in several mercedes, dodge pickups and dodge HEMIs at the stoplight. Even without a full boost (25psi), 4x4 launch, were you will put 500tq to the ground and hook at launch when stock. With the SCT tuner, you have enough torque to spin all 4 of the stock 33's off of the line and turn the truck sideways.

Oh and did I also mention that the tuner will get you about 2-3 mpg gain when you actually keep your foot out of it? I'd love to see a gasser do that or gain that much hp/tq with so little invested.

Some of the older diesels I agree, however the current production diesels are NOTHING to sneeze at. As far as the toy diesels go, I do not know. Well save for the video posted earlier he went from 0-60 in about 13.5s, the same as my 3.0 3vze did it when stock.

Potomacduck

I was talking about bone stock 3.0 liter Toyota diesels.

Yes the Powerstrokes are nice, my brother has one. But unless you need one for towing, they may not be as economical as you think.

The Ford F-250 Powerstroke Diesel is a $6,800 dollar udgrade from it's gasoline cousin. That's almost 7 grand of upfront costs on a depreciable asset.

Add to that maintenance. Diesel's are cheaper to maintain, right? That's another myth. The F-250 Diesel requires $2,020 MORE in maintenance costs in the first 100,000 miles alone. BTW, these figures are from Ford, I'm not making them up.

So, in the first 100,000 miles you have already paid $8,020 more than the same truck with a gas engine.

Yes, you can hot rod any motor, diesel or gas. However, you will pay a price for that, you can't argue with physics or thermodynamics.

Now don't get me wrong, I've owned diesels, I love 'em. If you need to tow heavy loads, they have no equal. But if a dealer talks you into thinking you are saving money by buying a diesel, do the math first.

hross14

Austin has not started emmisions testing--there goes the farm

roadking8633

diesels cost more up front and for maintenance but have a wayyyyy higher resale value. so if you put money in you are gonna get alot of it back.i had a 2004 dodgre ram with a cummins that booked out 6000 more than it's hemi cousin. everybody wants them and you can demand top dollar. a swap in a yota will definately be an investment that will boost the value of the rig.