Towing a 4runner behind my RV ?
#1
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Towing a 4runner behind my RV ?
Towing a 4runner behind my RV ?
I have a 33’ class A rv and I have a tow dolly and want to tow my 2000 4 Runner behind it.
What is the best way to do it?
A…. back the 4runner onto the dooly and strap it down and go?
B…. pull the 4runner on and put the manual tcase in neutral and go ?
Oh the 2000 4runner is an automatic
Any help would be great. I only will need to do this once a year, if I did it more I would buy the drive shaft disconnect thingy.
Thanks Mike
I have a 33’ class A rv and I have a tow dolly and want to tow my 2000 4 Runner behind it.
What is the best way to do it?
A…. back the 4runner onto the dooly and strap it down and go?
B…. pull the 4runner on and put the manual tcase in neutral and go ?
Oh the 2000 4runner is an automatic
Any help would be great. I only will need to do this once a year, if I did it more I would buy the drive shaft disconnect thingy.
Thanks Mike
#3
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I would put the front on the dolly and remove the driveshaft. You'll have to come up with something to plug up the output shaft hole on the transmission. Before removing the driveshaft be sure to mark the yoke on the differential end so it's in the same position when you re-install it, this can cause a drive line vibration if not done.
#5
I would put the front on the dolly and remove the driveshaft. You'll have to come up with something to plug up the output shaft hole on the transmission. Before removing the driveshaft be sure to mark the yoke on the differential end so it's in the same position when you re-install it, this can cause a drive line vibration if not done.
How would reinstalling the DS in a different position introduce vibration? I could see it if the DS and diff were balanced as a set, but they aren't.
#6
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No need to completely remove it, just unbolt if from the rear, and ratchet strap it up and out of the way.
Glad you brought that up Nelson, I wasn't sure if that gen had a slip yoke or flange.
Glad you brought that up Nelson, I wasn't sure if that gen had a slip yoke or flange.
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#8
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then you have to remove the front driveshaft. And if your steering isn't perfectly straight then you have issues with that and I mean perfect, and also the weight of the truck is gonna cause wander anyway even if the steering it absolutely perfect. You always want the weight of the vehicle your towing to be in the front of the trailer, this goes for both a flatbed and a dolly.
I don't know if removing the driveshaft is the same reason why the earlier gens have to (t-case lubrication) but there is a second aspect as to why you want to do this as well and it's safety. If the t-case or trans happens to slip into gear it's gonna cause major problems, if the driveshaft is off even if they do slip into gear it's not gonna do anything. Big price to pay for not removing 4 bolts and using some whiteout.
I don't know if removing the driveshaft is the same reason why the earlier gens have to (t-case lubrication) but there is a second aspect as to why you want to do this as well and it's safety. If the t-case or trans happens to slip into gear it's gonna cause major problems, if the driveshaft is off even if they do slip into gear it's not gonna do anything. Big price to pay for not removing 4 bolts and using some whiteout.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 07-29-2011 at 06:22 AM.
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I got it, you have a 4x4. Mine is 2wd and has a 1-piece drive shaft. The slip yoke on mine slides into the tail cone on the trans. If I take it out fluid will leak from the hole. There is some speculation that re-installing the drive shaft in a different position will introduce a vibration. I've never experienced that happening but when you work at the dealership they drill that into your head.
#10
I got it, you have a 4x4. Mine is 2wd and has a 1-piece drive shaft. The slip yoke on mine slides into the tail cone on the trans. If I take it out fluid will leak from the hole. There is some speculation that re-installing the drive shaft in a different position will introduce a vibration. I've never experienced that happening but when you work at the dealership they drill that into your head.
#11
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then you have to remove the front driveshaft. And if your steering isn't perfectly straight then you have issues with that and I mean perfect, and also the weight of the truck is gonna cause wander anyway even if the steering it absolutely perfect. You always want the weight of the vehicle your towing to be in the front of the trailer, this goes for both a flatbed and a dolly.
I don't know if removing the driveshaft is the same reason why the earlier gens have to (t-case lubrication) but there is a second aspect as to why you want to do this as well and it's safety. If the t-case or trans happens to slip into gear it's gonna cause major problems, if the driveshaft is off even if they do slip into gear it's not gonna do anything. Big price to pay for not removing 4 bolts and using some whiteout.
I don't know if removing the driveshaft is the same reason why the earlier gens have to (t-case lubrication) but there is a second aspect as to why you want to do this as well and it's safety. If the t-case or trans happens to slip into gear it's gonna cause major problems, if the driveshaft is off even if they do slip into gear it's not gonna do anything. Big price to pay for not removing 4 bolts and using some whiteout.
#12
It is not recommended that you pull a vehicle with the rear axle on the Dolly. I found this after I tried it last weekend . Car towed fine at 25-30. Hit 45 and the car was all over the highway. Pulled the shaft and 300 miles later took 5 minutes to put it back in.
And pull t he rear shaft. You can look in my build thread and see the damage I did when I was lazy and didn't pull the rear shaft.
I am old too.'if you can't crawl under the truck, buy a flat bed trailer or a rear drive line disconnect kit
And pull t he rear shaft. You can look in my build thread and see the damage I did when I was lazy and didn't pull the rear shaft.
I am old too.'if you can't crawl under the truck, buy a flat bed trailer or a rear drive line disconnect kit
Last edited by dropzone; 05-19-2012 at 04:12 PM. Reason: stupid auto correct
#13
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Actually, both wheels will still be turning it's CV, and one of those wheels will still be spinning the front driveshaft. Assuming the ADD system on that gen is the same as the other gen. So that wheel will be spinning the driveshaft on the front, and once again, You would never catch me towing a vehicle on a dolly from the rear of the truck. Using a tow truck short distances is one thing, but towing a vehicle with the rear of another vehicle on a tow dolly is just plain risky. Tow it right or don't tow it at all. Or install a driveline disconnect.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 05-19-2012 at 04:10 PM.
#14
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Does anyone know who makes a quick disconnect for a '99 4runner? Google turns up nothing that i can find easily.
#15
imo, i wouldnt use any quick disconnect driveshafts. the one i have see was built into the driveshaft so the guy threw away his stock one. something happened and the quick disconnect must have connected while being towed and the driveshaft twist like a soda can since the metal used in that driveshaft was as thin as a soda can. better to remove the bolts on the rear diff and tie it up
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Hope I'm reading this right.
A.D.D. systems don't spin the front drive shaft. Even when being towed.
It stands for auto diff disconnect. If you towed it backwards, (which is a bad idea) the drivline wouldn't be spinning or the t-case or trans. If it weren't for the handling effects it would solve your problems.
A.D.D. systems don't spin the front drive shaft. Even when being towed.
It stands for auto diff disconnect. If you towed it backwards, (which is a bad idea) the drivline wouldn't be spinning or the t-case or trans. If it weren't for the handling effects it would solve your problems.
#19
did you ever tow this vehicle ?
I have the same vehicle that I want to dolly tow. Did you ever find out if you can tow like this or does the transfer case have to be in neutral?