Tow straps

tomus1000 · 04-16-2003, 10:05 PM

Give me your opinions on tow straps. What are the pros and cons of loop ends vs. hook ends. I need to buy a new strap and wonder if anyone has strong feelings either way. I can't seem to make up my mind. I do not have any shackles on my truck, by the way.

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upndair · 04-16-2003, 10:11 PM

If a strap breaks with a loop end, there's no risk of injury. The straps with hooks can become deadly projectiles. The hook ends are designed for towing, not a recovery strap for a stuck vehicle.

Shane · 04-16-2003, 10:12 PM

Hook ends are "tow" straps, loop ends are "snatch" straps. Never use a strap with hooks for recovery.

HBoss · 04-16-2003, 10:46 PM

Both.

Use the one w/hooks for light vehicles and such and for towing, but never for a vehicle that's stuck bad or the hooks could become a weapon. This is good if someone is just a little stuck and could use a pull/push to get the tires back on the ground or whatever. The ones with hooks, in this case, are fast & easy to use and they normally only need to be moved a meter or two. It's also good if they don't have D-ring shackles or open tow hooks. I've pulled a few stuck cars out of deep snow and they only weigh about 3000 lbs. at most. A recovery strap would have been useless as these cars don't come w/open tow hooks.

Recovery strap for the obvious: serious recovery. If they are "seriously" stuck, they should have thought they may get in that position and have open tow hooks or D-ring shackles. If not, they should have thought ahead...

I bring a tow strap (hooks), recovery strap (no hook) and spare D-ring shackle for those who have nothing but frame holes.

CTB · 04-17-2003, 05:09 AM

When you guys use recovery straps with loops at the end, and the vehicle doesn't have a "tow hook" on the front or back, how do you connect it to the stuck vehicle? Basically, I'm asking if you make some sort of slip knot, or what? Just curious. Thanks-

CTB

Cebby · 04-17-2003, 05:18 AM

I'm getting one with loop ends soon. Definitely before EC4RJ. It will make a nice addition to my winchless, open diffed, AT tire wonder.

jalaber · 04-17-2003, 06:06 AM

I vote no hooks. Unless like the others said it is strictly for short towing and not recovery snatching.

Shane · 04-17-2003, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by CTB
When you guys use recovery straps with loops at the end, and the vehicle doesn't have a "tow hook" on the front or back, how do you connect it to the stuck vehicle? Basically, I'm asking if you make some sort of slip knot, or what? Just curious. Thanks-

CTB

Slip one end through the other to form a loop, do this around the frame, axle housing, etc...

upndair · 04-17-2003, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by CTB
When you guys use recovery straps with loops at the end, and the vehicle doesn't have a "tow hook" on the front or back, how do you connect it to the stuck vehicle? Basically, I'm asking if you make some sort of slip knot, or what? Just curious. Thanks-

CTB

You don't go wheeling with guys who don't have tow hooks on the front and back. If you do, let the guy without the tow hooks hook up his own end. That way when you pull his bumper off or bend his his tie rod, it's not your fault.

If it's you without tow hooks, get some! They are cheap and easy to install.

rimpainter.com · 04-17-2003, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by upndair
You don't go wheeling with guys who don't have tow hooks on the front and back. If you do, let the guy without the tow hooks hook up his own end.

That's actually a really good idea. In all honesty I didnt think of that. I was always the first guy to do all the hooking up.

I think its time for me to get some non-hooked recovery straps!

CTB · 04-17-2003, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by upndair
You don't go wheeling with guys who don't have tow hooks on the front and back. If you do, let the guy without the tow hooks hook up his own end. That way when you pull his bumper off or bend his his tie rod, it's not your fault.

If it's you without tow hooks, get some! They are cheap and easy to install.

I do have tow hooks, but I just wanted to be sure I was doing it the safe way!

Shane · 04-17-2003, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by upndair
If you do, let the guy without the tow hooks hook up his own end.

...and then doublecheck his work to make sure he didn't do anything stupid. I pulled a Dodge back onto the trail a few years ago and had the guy hook himself up, he put the strap around his tie rod. I advised him that if I pulled from there he would get back on the road but wouldn't be going anywhere. He very willingly sacrificed his flimsy bumper instead.

CTB · 04-17-2003, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Shane
Slip one end through the other to form a loop, do this around the frame, axle housing, etc...

Exactly what I thought. Thanks Shane-

CTB · 04-17-2003, 07:37 AM

Alright, now a question about tow hooks...

I just have the single factory tow hook in the front, and nothing in the rear (except for the factory hitch). Should I try installing another hook on the front, as well as one or two on the back, or should my current setup be sufficient?

If so, where should I look to purchase the hooks, and where should they be mounted? I haven't looked to see if there are any good stock mounting locations yet, sorry. Thanks for the info fellas-

CTB

Cebby · 04-17-2003, 07:57 AM

There are a couple of small holes in the back that you could put a shackle through, or the big hoops under the rad.

Rear Passenger

Rear Driver (above exhaust pipe - sorry bad pic)

Front Passenger

Front Driver

CTB · 04-17-2003, 08:16 AM

Hey Cebby,

So, you think a shackle would work in that hole in the "rear passenger" picture you posted about? Do you think it would matter if the shackle had any play in it, or would the center shaft of the shackle need to fit through that hole really tightly? (haha, really sorry if that sounds like sexual innuendo, not meant to

)

***Corey*** · 04-17-2003, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by CTB
Alright, now a question about tow hooks...

I just have the single factory tow hook in the front, and nothing in the rear (except for the factory hitch). Should I try installing another hook on the front, as well as one or two on the back, or should my current setup be sufficient?

If so, where should I look to purchase the hooks, and where should they be mounted? I haven't looked to see if there are any good stock mounting locations yet, sorry. Thanks for the info fellas-

CTB

Cody, here is a solution for the front, but it's not cheap, but think of the added protection it will give you.

It looks by Cebby's last two pics you could use a D ring shackle on the front where those holes are, but I am not sure of the strength of the mounting brackets.
You certainly don't want a shackle to break at that mounting point and end up becoming a deadly projectile.

Cebby · 04-17-2003, 08:44 AM

The front holes are a separate bolt-on piece. They bolt into the frame with a 1/2" equivalent bolt. This is also how the factory tow hook is on also though.

The rear tabs are welded on. Not sure of the hole size in the back, I'm in a suit and don't want to roll around on the ground to measure it.

The way that plate hangs down in the back, there is probably a chance it might bend if the tugging gets violent, although is is about 1/4" thick, runs up the side of the frame rail and has a nice bead holding it on. I think the shackle "should" be snug, but it probably isn't critical. I doubt there is possibility that it would break.

I'm ordering some shackels soon. If that hole is too big, I'm going to weld an insert into it to beef it up cause I want to leave my shackle on (without rattling)

Now that it's nice out, I can finally break out the

CTB, if it's too loose, they have pills for that now...

***Corey*** · 04-17-2003, 09:00 AM

Cebby, if you want some shackles that will stay nice and not need paint, check out "Off Road Only" in the Vendor section.

They have nice stainless steel ones that are not much more than a standard one.

Cebby · 04-17-2003, 09:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Corey
They have nice stainless steel ones that are not much more than a standard one.

All Pro has imports for $10 and US made for $15. The Stainless are $35. I need a little more yellow under my truck anyway.

Corey, how often do you need to paint your shackles?

***Corey*** · 04-17-2003, 09:56 AM

Eh, ouch

I did not realize the ss ones were so much.

I have only painted the front ones one time.
It holds up pretty good.

Makes it easy to spot me 1/2 mile away

runningman · 04-17-2003, 10:49 AM

I recently had this discussion with the guys about hooks or straps and we came to the same conclusion so i bought some looped straps but it's good to hear it backed up by the experts here.

WATRD · 04-17-2003, 11:11 AM

Please, please, please do not use anything metal during a recovery. That includes tow straps with metal hooks.

As others mentioned, those are for towing a disabled vehicle on road where there is very little chance of a shock loading the strap. Most quality TOW straps even have a off colored thread that runs through them to show when the strap has been shock loaded and is no longer suitable for use.

A "Recovery" strap will always have sewn in eyes. During my Trail 101 classes I show examples of both and we talk about when each is appropriate. But I think it's this picture that I pass around that illustrates it best. This photo is of what happens when a strap with a metal hook fails.

Now imagine that was the back window or a person.

CTB · 04-17-2003, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Corey
Cody, here is a solution for the front, but it's not cheap, but think of the added protection it will give you.

Ya Ya, go ahead and rub it a little more!

Hey Cebby, I will probably run out to my rig later this afternoon and check out the diameter of those rear holes, and see about ordering up a shackle or two for them. I'll let you know what i measure them at.

WATRD · 04-17-2003, 12:25 PM

<There are a couple of small holes in the back that you could put a shackle through, or the big hoops under the rad.>

Cebby, those are "tie downs" for when the rig is transported on a flatbed or the like. They will tear and eventually fail if they are used for recovery. They should never be used for yanking or being yanked. In some clubs, usually the more harcore ones, you may not even have those on your rig so they don't get used for that purpose.

The best bet is replace those eyes with proper devices designed specifically for recovery. Shackels in a receiver, hooks, whatever.

(just call me "Safety Guy" today, but I have seen some pretty horendous injuries due to unsafe recovery techniques over the years and the fine folks here are way too nice to let those things happen to them)

View Poll Results: Should I buy a tow strap with:
"loop" ends	69	88.46%
"hook" ends	9	11.54%
Voters: 78. You may not vote on this poll

04-16-2003, 10:11 PM	#2 (permalink)
upndair Registered User Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Milton, WA Posts: 1,117	If a strap breaks with a loop end, there's no risk of injury. The straps with hooks can become deadly projectiles. The hook ends are designed for towing, not a recovery strap for a stuck vehicle. __________________ Gibby 1994 4Runnner 6" lift: Leaf spring conversion rear, SAS front. 1180 Ramp score. DANA 60s with ARB lockers 39x13.50 IROKs SBC 350, NP203 - NP205 Allpro bumpers and rock sliders. www.faithwheelers.com

04-16-2003, 10:12 PM	#3 (permalink)
Shane Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Seattle Posts: 3,000	Hook ends are "tow" straps, loop ends are "snatch" straps. Never use a strap with hooks for recovery. __________________ "It's one great big dysfunctional family that now has to split up and spread dysfunctionality around the greater world," Bill Stainton on the breakup of the cast of "Almost Live!"

04-16-2003, 10:46 PM	#4 (permalink)
HBoss Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Edmonton, AB, Canada Posts: 1,878	Both. Use the one w/hooks for light vehicles and such and for towing, but never for a vehicle that's stuck bad or the hooks could become a weapon. This is good if someone is just a little stuck and could use a pull/push to get the tires back on the ground or whatever. The ones with hooks, in this case, are fast & easy to use and they normally only need to be moved a meter or two. It's also good if they don't have D-ring shackles or open tow hooks. I've pulled a few stuck cars out of deep snow and they only weigh about 3000 lbs. at most. A recovery strap would have been useless as these cars don't come w/open tow hooks. Recovery strap for the obvious: serious recovery. If they are "seriously" stuck, they should have thought they may get in that position and have open tow hooks or D-ring shackles. If not, they should have thought ahead... I bring a tow strap (hooks), recovery strap (no hook) and spare D-ring shackle for those who have nothing but frame holes. __________________ 1997 4Runner Ltd. Bilstein shocks, rear E-locker & riding on 32s. Mods Pics Tech articles, write-ups & more are available on my website. http://www.hboss.net/4runner Last edited by HBoss; 04-16-2003 at 10:49 PM.

04-17-2003, 05:09 AM	#5 (permalink)
CTB Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: SC Posts: 1,218	When you guys use recovery straps with loops at the end, and the vehicle doesn't have a "tow hook" on the front or back, how do you connect it to the stuck vehicle? Basically, I'm asking if you make some sort of slip knot, or what? Just curious. Thanks- CTB __________________ 1995 4Runner V6 4x4

04-17-2003, 05:18 AM	#6 (permalink)
Cebby Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 11,246	I'm getting one with loop ends soon. Definitely before EC4RJ. It will make a nice addition to my winchless, open diffed, AT tire wonder. __________________ UZswap.com A site dedicated to sharing info for swapping the Toyota/ Lexus UZ (V8) engines into Toyota Trucks and 4Runners. My 4Runner 1993 4Runner, 1UZ (V8) auto dual ultimate crawler, double locked, 35's on beadlocked SR5 alloys, low lift, hacked fenders, tubbed firewall, custom armor TOOLandFAB.com A discussion forum dedicated to tools, fabrication & workshops. See my JD2 Bender Hydro Conversion BUY THIS 2008 CALENDAR Last edited by Cebby; 04-17-2003 at 06:13 AM.

04-17-2003, 06:06 AM	#7 (permalink)
jalaber Contributing Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: NY Posts: 860	I vote no hooks. Unless like the others said it is strictly for short towing and not recovery snatching. __________________ -J.A. 2007 4Runner Sport 1999 4Runner Highlander My Runners 4Runner Topsites 4Runner Diecasts

04-17-2003, 07:37 AM	#14 (permalink)
CTB Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: SC Posts: 1,218	Alright, now a question about tow hooks... I just have the single factory tow hook in the front, and nothing in the rear (except for the factory hitch). Should I try installing another hook on the front, as well as one or two on the back, or should my current setup be sufficient? If so, where should I look to purchase the hooks, and where should they be mounted? I haven't looked to see if there are any good stock mounting locations yet, sorry. Thanks for the info fellas- CTB __________________ 1995 4Runner V6 4x4

04-17-2003, 07:57 AM	#15 (permalink)
Cebby Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 11,246	There are a couple of small holes in the back that you could put a shackle through, or the big hoops under the rad. Rear Passenger Rear Driver (above exhaust pipe - sorry bad pic) Front Passenger Front Driver __________________ UZswap.com A site dedicated to sharing info for swapping the Toyota/ Lexus UZ (V8) engines into Toyota Trucks and 4Runners. My 4Runner 1993 4Runner, 1UZ (V8) auto dual ultimate crawler, double locked, 35's on beadlocked SR5 alloys, low lift, hacked fenders, tubbed firewall, custom armor TOOLandFAB.com A discussion forum dedicated to tools, fabrication & workshops. See my JD2 Bender Hydro Conversion BUY THIS 2008 CALENDAR

04-17-2003, 08:16 AM	#16 (permalink)
CTB Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: SC Posts: 1,218	Hey Cebby, So, you think a shackle would work in that hole in the "rear passenger" picture you posted about? Do you think it would matter if the shackle had any play in it, or would the center shaft of the shackle need to fit through that hole really tightly? (haha, really sorry if that sounds like sexual innuendo, not meant to ) __________________ 1995 4Runner V6 4x4

04-17-2003, 08:44 AM	#18 (permalink)
Cebby Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 11,246	The front holes are a separate bolt-on piece. They bolt into the frame with a 1/2" equivalent bolt. This is also how the factory tow hook is on also though. The rear tabs are welded on. Not sure of the hole size in the back, I'm in a suit and don't want to roll around on the ground to measure it. The way that plate hangs down in the back, there is probably a chance it might bend if the tugging gets violent, although is is about 1/4" thick, runs up the side of the frame rail and has a nice bead holding it on. I think the shackle "should" be snug, but it probably isn't critical. I doubt there is possibility that it would break. I'm ordering some shackels soon. If that hole is too big, I'm going to weld an insert into it to beef it up cause I want to leave my shackle on (without rattling) Now that it's nice out, I can finally break out the CTB, if it's too loose, they have pills for that now... __________________ UZswap.com A site dedicated to sharing info for swapping the Toyota/ Lexus UZ (V8) engines into Toyota Trucks and 4Runners. My 4Runner 1993 4Runner, 1UZ (V8) auto dual ultimate crawler, double locked, 35's on beadlocked SR5 alloys, low lift, hacked fenders, tubbed firewall, custom armor TOOLandFAB.com A discussion forum dedicated to tools, fabrication & workshops. See my JD2 Bender Hydro Conversion BUY THIS 2008 CALENDAR

04-17-2003, 09:00 AM	#19 (permalink)
*Corey* Co-Founder/Administrator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: Auburn, Washington Posts: 26,071	Cebby, if you want some shackles that will stay nice and not need paint, check out "Off Road Only" in the Vendor section. They have nice stainless steel ones that are not much more than a standard one.

04-17-2003, 09:56 AM	#21 (permalink)
*Corey* Co-Founder/Administrator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: Auburn, Washington Posts: 26,071	Eh, ouch I did not realize the ss ones were so much. I have only painted the front ones one time. It holds up pretty good. Makes it easy to spot me 1/2 mile away

04-17-2003, 10:49 AM	#22 (permalink)
runningman Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Canada Posts: 170	sweet I recently had this discussion with the guys about hooks or straps and we came to the same conclusion so i bought some looped straps but it's good to hear it backed up by the experts here. __________________ Chris W 1995 4runner www.toontoys.ca www.maketradefair.com

04-17-2003, 11:11 AM	#23 (permalink)
WATRD Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Duvall, WA Posts: 5,109	Please, please, please do not use anything metal during a recovery. That includes tow straps with metal hooks. As others mentioned, those are for towing a disabled vehicle on road where there is very little chance of a shock loading the strap. Most quality TOW straps even have a off colored thread that runs through them to show when the strap has been shock loaded and is no longer suitable for use. A "Recovery" strap will always have sewn in eyes. During my Trail 101 classes I show examples of both and we talk about when each is appropriate. But I think it's this picture that I pass around that illustrates it best. This photo is of what happens when a strap with a metal hook fails. Now imagine that was the back window or a person. __________________ -Rob Slightly Modified 2001 Tacoma - WATRD.COM WATTORA is becoming NWToys! Tread Lightly! certified Tread Trainer Search 100+ Toyota tech sites, including this one: Toyota Tech Search

04-17-2003, 12:25 PM	#25 (permalink)
WATRD Contributing Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Duvall, WA Posts: 5,109	<There are a couple of small holes in the back that you could put a shackle through, or the big hoops under the rad.> Cebby, those are "tie downs" for when the rig is transported on a flatbed or the like. They will tear and eventually fail if they are used for recovery. They should never be used for yanking or being yanked. In some clubs, usually the more harcore ones, you may not even have those on your rig so they don't get used for that purpose. The best bet is replace those eyes with proper devices designed specifically for recovery. Shackels in a receiver, hooks, whatever. (just call me "Safety Guy" today, but I have seen some pretty horendous injuries due to unsafe recovery techniques over the years and the fine folks here are way too nice to let those things happen to them) __________________ -Rob Slightly Modified 2001 Tacoma - WATRD.COM WATTORA is becoming NWToys! Tread Lightly! certified Tread Trainer Search 100+ Toyota tech sites, including this one: Toyota Tech Search

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