Elton

well i tired searching but didn't come up with much well i got 103k on the current belt last one was replaced at 59k .... i want it done right soo im taking it to the dealer my truck has 163k miles .... what im looking for is what parts to replace also ive read some where the crank pulley needs to be tighten to like 200ft pounds ?

CTRJ

With 160k on the truck, I would replace the following--
-Timing belt
-All 3 drive belts
-New water pump
-New idler pulleys (2)

Elton

guessing the coolant will be replaced should i get a new thermostat too

Nuthuts96

iTrader: (1)

this is what i did about a week ago when i changed it. if you have access to a 250ft/lb torque wrench, and the ability to make a sst pulley holder out of wood, i'd recommend saving about $400...

1. timing belt
2. water pump (comes with updated gasket too! no rtv type sealant)
3. all 3 drive belts-ac/ps/alt (they were due)
4. thermostat
5. crank bolt- don't reuse your old torqued bolt
6. 1 gal. of toyota red coolant and ~1 gal. distilled water- coolant refill
7. lower rad. hose (it was bulging- replaced upper rad hose last Nov)
there's also an o-ring for the dipstick shroud that should be replaced- i didn't bother.

my runner is still running good...i think....the wife's been driving it, but she hasn't called saying the truck's broken down on I-5!

CTRJ

Yes, sorry I forgot about that. They're cheap and easy to replace.

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

i have a '98 4runner 3.4L v6 Automatic, these are some part # that i got from replacing or shopping for parts from the dealer:

90080-91090-83 Belt, V Alternator ($11.15)
99364-21070-83 Belt, V Vane Pump ($10.67)
99364-20870-78 V-Belt ($24.13)
16100-69398-83 Water Pump ($125.24)
13568-69095 Timing Belt ($49.40)
13540-62021 Tensioner ($39.38)
13503-62040 Idler ($90.37)
13505-62070 Idler ($121.26)

i have yet to do the timing belt, those were just part #s and prices i was quoted earlier this year. the drive belts, i have purchased and worked just fine. i guess to be safe i'd go with what nuthuts96 suggested and do the crank bolt and thermostat too, and you will need some coolant. hope this helps

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

I will second making something to hold the cam pully in place. I redid mine without doing that and it's a pain in the ass to get the belt back on.

With that said, anyone have pictures or descriptions of what they use to hold those in place?

Elton

yea if i had the tools and a shop and a extra hand i would do it my self or if another member was closer id love to save some money .....ill go and get a quote here monday thanks guys

wslytoy

I concur w/ others in the thread, you definitely want to replace the other parts while you're at it. ESPECIALLY the crank bolt, the last thing you want is that thing backing out and your crank pulley sliding off the crank just enough to shut down your oil pump as you toast your pistons .

Elton

it looks pretty simple only problem is i have no tq wrench
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

rocket

iTrader: (1)

You can rent one.

or...
Read this thread in it's entirety, It contains a wealth of information... https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...ng-belt-55233/

You still have plenty of time to prepare. Buy the parts and tools, then change it after another 20-30K miles.

JsEngine&repair

I concure. Why are you changing your belt so soon anyways? 59 K? 103K? wait until its worn the out at like 150K. I have a truck with 330K V5(never had the timing belt replaced, runs on all but one cylinder) and I am going to rebuild the entire engine now.

wslytoy

That's quite possibly the worst advice I've ever heard of... You are the type of ppl that should never offer up advice on the internet. Do you realize the repercussions of what you're suggesting? Ok, forget whether or not it'll hurt an engine... What happens when this guy is at a stop sign, he pulls out in traffic and his timing belt breaks and there's on coming traffic. Now, he has no power to get out of harms way. I'm dying to know what kind of truck you have that's a V5... Belts are made of rubber and they stretch. In time, they break. If this board was a little less on the conservative side, I'd tell you exactly what I think about ppl like you.


Now that I've got that off my chest, it's IMPERATIVE that you change your timing belt every 80-90K miles. You can rent a tq wrench from several places. Again, please replace the crank bolt(LC Engineering sells and ARP replacement). Good luck!

rocket

iTrader: (1)

Easy there bud. Your basing your logic on what Toyota recommends and call it "imperative". 80-90K is ludicrous! Try looking beyond the horizons...what's recommended by Toyota's "service intervals" (aka profit) means nothing. Please indulge yourself into some actual real world experiences and known facts. I'll offer up the same advice he suggested and challenge you to RESEARCH how long these timing belts actually do last.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...ng-belt-55233/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/2...g-belt-143148/

Elton

ok so far what ive got is both #1 and #2 idler pulleys water pump t stat all 3 drive belts crank bolt coolant Tensioner ? now should i make sure in there book it says 217 ft lbs for the crank bolt and do they use locktight ?

wslytoy

That was easy. I held back how I really felt. Now, if you're the gambling type, then yeah sure, you can push a timing belt as long as you'd like to push it. I on the other hand have to pull out in front of traffic on a regular basis(due to the lack of traffic lights) and there's no way I'm gonna run a belt 300K miles. Rubber stretches, cracks, & breaks. The sooner you and your friend are willing to accept that, the better off others will be.

Elton

ok i gotta a quote from my buddy at the dealer he said it shouldn't cost more than $500

ARB1977

I just popped the timing belt cover off and the belt still looks new...im pushing it but im waiting till 120K to do mine. The dealer wants 675 for water pump and belt. Yesterday was my first time chaning the coolant by myself...very easy.

mt_goat

This would be the first question I'd ask the mechanic, "what are you planning to torque the crank bolt to?" If he says anything other than 217 ft-lbs, leave. If he says don't worry I'll use an impact on it, run. I'd also request at least blue locktite be used.

hross14

I know this may kinda sound like bad advice--but i dont know if i would change the idler bearing just yet. Experience has shown these guys go for awhile. When you/they take them off they will be able to tell whether they need to be replaced or not.

Also-as far as belts going--i have seen these things go for awhile regulary--i changed mine at 105k miles and it still looked peachy. Just saying do what you want but i would do the belt, pump and bolt (217 ft lbs)--BLUE locktite and enjoy.

just my .02$-----and i would let it ride till say 90-100k per belt