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Tie rod removal?

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Old 10-19-2011, 06:42 PM
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Tie rod removal?

Got my new shocks in, put the new lower ball joints in, destroyed my left tie rod end removing the ball joint, got new tie rod ends and could not get the tie rod end separated from the inner tie rod! Sheesh! The lock nut would not move, it was pretty much fused to the OTR shaft and fused to the inner tie rod. Used a cutting wheel to carefully cut the nut off, totally seized underneath. Prior to the cutting wheel I soaked everything with PB Blaster for about a week, then 3 days of heavy dousing, and broke out the propane torch and still no luck. So, I got new OEM inner tie rods (my butt still hurts even after a generous employee discount) and I can't get the darn things out! A co-worker lent me his tie rod tool that we've used on everything in the shop, he said it's worked on everything in the last 4 years and has about 8 different size crow's feet inserts, come to find out they are all too small for the OEM tie rods I have. I've measured the tie rod and it comes out to about 1 5/8" and after google searches I can not find a crow's foot insert for that tool in that size.

Any useful tips or is this one of those cases where you need the Toyota specific tool for this job? FYI, I'm coating everything with anti-seize when I'm done so I can actually remove them the next time. Thanks.
Old 10-19-2011, 06:51 PM
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I know exactly what you're talking about because I've done this to my 4Runner. I used to work on my HMMVW in Iraq and it was a lot more difficult than that little tie rod on our trucks.

You said it measured 1 5/8". Did you check a metric measurement? I drive a tow truck and my dad has a shop and he has ridiculous amounts of tools....some of them you can't find standard, others you can't find metric. It's weird. Just a thought, I might be off on that one.

But my advice is to do exactly what you're doing by using anti-seize. WD-40 and anti-seize does all kinds of wonders. My pops also has this Mopar rust release....it's black and it's the best stuff I've ever used on anything that needs loosening, better than any anti-seize or WD-40 in my opinion.
Old 10-19-2011, 07:23 PM
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Those inner TREs aren't cheap. If mine go, it is a Toy reman rack.

I think you need size 30mm and 42mm to get them out, but since I have never done this job, I can't say for sure.
Old 10-19-2011, 10:58 PM
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I just used a big pair of channel locks. But then, my inner TRE wasn't rusted to the rack..




Old 10-20-2011, 04:29 PM
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ended up borrowing a 1 5/8 open ended wrench from a mechanic at work. it's a monster. maybe you could offer to 'rent' one from a mechanic near you, or is a 'friend of a friend'
Old 10-21-2011, 05:07 PM
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My buddy has a friend that's a Toyota tech, said they had a special tool for the bigger tie rods but they could not loan it out obviously. So, I got a bigger wrench. One of the old school guys at work said he had a big crescent wrench, man that sucker was about 2 feet long! The jaws just barely opened up enough to get around the tie rod, but it certainly worked. Problem solved, new tie rods, boots, TREs, ball joints, and my new Bilstein 5100s are in. Alignment on Monday and then I get to work for 3 months to pay for the parts.

On deck, refinishing my front sway bar, new poly bushings, new end links, poly steering rack bushings, and all new rear brakes. My oh my, she's going to drive like new again.
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