dgz32

I've been reading about correct grounding of the sensor since it'll be isolated by the rubber hose. Gadget recommended to solder a ground wire off of the bung that the sensor is threaded into. If I'm using tape between the bung and the sensor, will that affect grounding at all?? I only used two wraps around the sensor before I threaded it.

Thanks!

mt_goat

First off you should only need to ground it if the sensor you're using only has one wire. If your sensor has two wires one should be the ground. If your sensor only has one wire then yes, Gadget's suggestion of soldering sounds like good advice (he's a smart guy). Another idea would be to drill and tap a very small hole and screw the ground to whatever you're screwing the sensor into and use that to hold a ground wire with a loop end connector crimped onto the wire. Just wraping the wire around the threads and taping sounds like a short term (half assed) way to go.

EDIT: I just figured out your question has to do with the teflon tape stoping the current flow. I'm not positive if it will hurt the ground or not, but every time I remove a joint wrapped with teflon tape the teflon is mostly torn off the threads so I'm going to guess no it won't stop the current flow.

dgz32

Thanks for the response.

I got everything installed...sans the sender itself. I went with a cheapie Sunpro gauge as I wanted something installed quickly before we headed out of town. I'm probably going to go with the ISSPRO as I think it's a better unit, and it has the two wire sender.





Anyway...so the temp sensor I have is the no-wire variety, lol. I've run my sender wire and a ground wire to the location that I'm going to install the 'block' in the output line. Obviously the sender wire is retained with a nut to the post. But what to do w/the ground?? I'm unable to solder a ground to the brass as the silver solder will not adhere; and I can't tap a hole as I do not have the tools (though I suppose I could go buy a set). This is where the nicer two-wire sensor would be...nice.



I had considered stripping several inches of insulation from the ground wire and wrapping it around the bung; then using a small hose clamp to create a crimp of sorts. This would mainly be for the trip this week, and would not be a permanent solution.

Thoughts?

mt_goat

So is it a mechanical gauge or an electric gauge? If its mechanical you won't need a ground either.

Clamp idea might work ok.

dgz32

It's an electric gauge. I'm gonna give he hose clamp a try...

Squiddy

I attached a ground wire to where the adaptor screws into the T (wrapped a wire around the adaptor, then covered with cold-shrink tape), then ran that wire to ground. Works great.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/IMG_0753.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/IMG_0754.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...s/IMG_0756.jpg

Joe's Toy

Was this what you were talking about Dale? Why not just use something like this.

mt_goat

Yes, that's what I meant by loop end connector. Thanks

dgz32

Thanks, guys. Went with Squiddy's solution and have everything hooked up. I'm guessing that I've got a bad ground for the sender as the needle is pegged at the max temp. Wiring is def not my thing. Is there a place behind the radio to get a good ground connection?

dgz32

OK...tried a known good ground point and am still getting the issue. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the way I grounded the sender at the sender itself. Tired of F'ing with it.

Gonna put in an order for the ISSPRO next week with the pre-wired sensor.

Texas_Ace

I personally use the Glowshift gauges and so far have loved them. For the price you can't beat them. They are also surprisingly acturate. Out of my 6 gages, most are dead on, the ones that are off a little are no more then 5% - 10%. Which is quite small really (example, my voltmeter always reads .2 volts low). Part of that though is the way i see the gauge makes it look off from what it really is.

Most of there gauges run under $30 for the 7 color versions (which is nice so you can pick what color you want). I prefer the tinted models myself.

dgz32

Just figured I'd update with the new gauge I installed. Had too many issues w/the one above, so I replaced it with an ISSPRO unit. MUCH less of a hassle to install. Best of all, it works! Couple pics below. I switched out the bulbs with two LEDs I had on-hand to match my updated lighting.

CLin9383

wow, where did you get those LED lights on your heater controls and shifter. i have white LEDs and they are no where as bright! thanks!

Mtn Mike

iTrader: (1)

That's a good looking install. Thanks for posting. Can you post the ISSPRO part number? Thanks.

02_Limited

That install is nice. I like the idea of a gauge where you put it. Random question... it looks like my transfer case slector is the same as yours and I drive a 2002. Did all Limited 3rd Gen's have push button 4WD? I have been to J.A's site tons of times but still haven't been able to figure it out

dgz32

superbrightleds.com - though they've changed their site a bit and I can't find the exact bulb. Seems like the heater control was a version that had 3 leds on one 'bulb'. A #74 wled, maybe?? The shifter was a superbright version of whatever normally goes in there, lol. I'm not much help, here. I can look up what I used once I get back into town and check my order on Sunday. Also, there was a good thread not too long ago re gauge lighting that mentioned these bulbs.

Thanks. Part number for that particular unit is R5659R. Cheapest place I could find it was at http://www.horsepowerupgrades.com (look under Clearance Items) for $63.50. Right at $70 shipped.

Thanks. As far as I know all 3rd gen Limiteds have the push to go into 4H button. However, a 2002 has an all wheel drive multi-mode version as well. Not sure about the specifics of that as my '97 is just for 4H. There was a good thread on this a while back.