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The Cooling mist CMGS is just a little rich for me at the moment. I'm trying to get one in before the Oklahoma heat settles in. BTW how did you fare against the twisters?
I came out ok thankfully, just got missed by 2 cells, was a lot luckier then a lot of people.
Good I'm glad to hear it. The news said that only like 12 people were injured and no deaths
Yep, everyone has so far been very lucky in that no life was lost and most of the injury's have been pretty minor in the big picture. Lot of damage though.
Well at least you came out on the winning side! Thanks again for the info. I might have to sell a Glock now to pay for the CMGS.... damn it
No way, if Obama got a second term and that glock could be the most valuable thing you own lol.
Been stocking up on them myself and ammo, can never have enough ammo. Anyone else realize that December 21 2012 is a mere 3 weeks after elections? Just enough time for someone to go power crazy......... lol
Earlier in this thread I mentioned how a treatment of seafoam and marvel mystery oil evened out and raised my compression from 140-175psi to ~190psi across the board.
During my last oil change I decided what the heck, I put in a quart of Marvel mystery oil in place of a quart of normal oil as per the directions on the bottle. I also put a little seafoam into the oil during the change but I am sure it evaporated a long time ago.
I also filled it up with AMSoil 0w-30 synthtic oil and an AMSoil mid 90's ford Taurus V6 Oil filter (bigger then a 4runner filter).
I added a half bottle of seafoam to the oil a few days ago. I changed the oil again today and when draining the oil was dirty for sure, all the stuff that was cleaned out is my guess. Refilled it and then ran another compression test to see if anything had changed.
To my surprise the compression is up again, this time to ~205psi across the board! That is darn near new compression (215psi was factory spec IIRC)!
Got to say, I am impressed. Put another quart of MMO in the oil again this time, doubt it will get much better then this but figure it won't hurt. Gonna be pulling this engine apart to build it sooner or later.
Posting this more an a log for myself as these threads are a good way for me to keep track of these kind of things.
I'm interested to know what you did with the bypass valve. Mine doesn't seal well at all and i bet i'm losing 1-2 PSI from it since i only pull 7psi from a 2.2 pulley. Only replacement valve i have found is $200!
I'm interested to know what you did with the bypass valve. Mine doesn't seal well at all and i bet i'm losing 1-2 PSI from it since i only pull 7psi from a 2.2 pulley. Only replacement valve i have found is $200!
I got a custom plate made to replace the by-pass valve so it would seal properly.
The plate I got was not quite perfect so I had to perfect the fit manually with a grinder. Took some time but was not that hard. Made a noticeable difference in boost and power.
HELP. Does anyone have a problem with winter washer fluid and de-icer eating at the rubber on their intake?DOES RUBBER DESOVLE UNDER H20 METH? I have the sound resonator mod where it's removed and a steel pipe is in place. This is where I have my AEM nozzle attached, which is connected to a rubber connector which leads to the throttle body. My truck is broken down because I think there are gobs of rubber jamming up the intake. When I try to start it, it sounds like it's underwater and not getting gas or air. When I cleaned out the hose between my MAF and the throttle body, there were gobs of rubber there.
Any help would be appreciated before I start to rip my whole intake apart.
DO NOT use any washer fluids with additives in them. You want the basic blue washer fluid with the lowest temp rating you can find.
I have run the rain-x orange stuff that has the silicone coating in it, worked fine and didn't hurt anything except leaving orange stains all over the intake but it is not recommended. At least silicone is non-reactive, who knows what the de-icer does.
And since my thread was bumped anyways, might as well give a quick update on my truck.
After the balljoint failed in early 2013:
It sat for about a year and a half until late last year when I finally had both a reason and ability to get it back on the road.
Ended up not having to replace quite as much as I first thought. Needed new brake lines, ball joints, axle, alignment, and a few misc things along with a full tune up since it had sat so long.
Total cost for getting it back on the road was around $750 for anyone curious but that was with me being lucky with the amount of damage.
Been back on the road a few months now and still going strong. Turbo project is still planned but will be on hold for awhile as I need new tires ASAP along with no money for toys at the moment.
TA, unless you're running a lift or something, I'd highly recommend looking at 245/75 series tires. Much cheaper, they're lighter, and same diameter as stock. Slightly narrower. I run Cooper Discoverer AT3's in that size and they look great.
Can't afford new tires right now, just have to take what I can find used for the moment.
Although I hate skinny tires and love nice wide tires. Personally I would love to get some 295-305 wide tires, just love the look but seeing as how my future plans for the truck would make buying tires right now a bit silly, just gonna keep milking these out.
Down the road I would love/need some 335+ wide tires.....
TA, unless you're running a lift or something, I'd highly recommend looking at 245/75 series tires. Much cheaper, they're lighter, and same diameter as stock. Slightly narrower. I run Cooper Discoverer AT3's in that size and they look great.
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245s load range C here too. I found they were the lightest and still had good offroad grip. Rear locker and 4wd launch. 99 problems, but launch aint one.
Well, I need a new project for the 4Runner so I've been thinking of doing a water meth kit.
I've had the TRD blower and URD 7th and the tune is dialed in just about perfect at 11.6 - 12.1 on the 2.2 pulley on 93 octane for years now. However I am removing some timing in the map to avoid knock.
I've read some good things on water meth and think it makes sense for the TRD blower since it has no intercooler.
I've been eyeballing the new Snow Stage2 kit with the VC-50 controller. The controller would replace my boost gauge and serve several purposes without taking up any more space. Thoughts?
Looks like space in the engine bay is tight for a water/meth reservoir, so probably gonna use the washer reservoir.
I have a metal intake tube where the ISR used to be, and my biggest concern is mounting the nozzle. I'd prefer to have a threaded bung, but I'm not sure that'll be an option. It looks like these nozzes have lock nuts or something on the inside for through tube mounting, but the paranoid part of me worries about that nut coming loose and getting sucked through the motor.
Well, I need a new project for the 4Runner so I've been thinking of doing a water meth kit.
I've had the TRD blower and URD 7th and the tune is dialed in just about perfect at 11.6 - 12.1 on the 2.2 pulley on 93 octane for years now. However I am removing some timing in the map to avoid knock.
I've read some good things on water meth and think it makes sense for the TRD blower since it has no intercooler.
I've been eyeballing the new Snow Stage2 kit with the VC-50 controller. The controller would replace my boost gauge and serve several purposes without taking up any more space. Thoughts?
Looks like space in the engine bay is tight for a water/meth reservoir, so probably gonna use the washer reservoir.
I have a metal intake tube where the ISR used to be, and my biggest concern is mounting the nozzle. I'd prefer to have a threaded bung, but I'm not sure that'll be an option. It looks like these nozzes have lock nuts or something on the inside for through tube mounting, but the paranoid part of me worries about that nut coming loose and getting sucked through the motor.
Do the meth injection, you will not regret it at all. Although there is a good chance you will then have to start using it on every car you own (that challenger would do well with it as well).
It started slow for me, a little meth a little water, then it grew to 100% meth, then I needed more and more until I had no room for a 7th injector anymore and just had to have as much meth as I could get my hands on.
For how best to do it, The Snow kit will work although I don't like that it doesn't have a failsafe. Luckily our ECU's do a pretty good job of keeping the engine together even under horrible tunes. Plus using the failsafe for anything more then a warning light is hard with a supercharger without some custom work. So you could get away without it.
Plus you do good clean installs and since 75%+ of meth injection issues stem from an install error and another 20% from user error, you should be fine.
I personally like the Coolingmist autolearn kit, same type of controller-in-a-gauge setup (they started it FYI) but a bit better controller IMO. Also costs 2x as much though.
Any kit will work though, you are on the right track with using the washer fluid tank, it is a ton easier and simpler then trying to fit a separate one in there, plus it is easy to fill and get to. Also on later years you have the built in low fluid switch so no need to add a separate one.
For the nozzle mounting the easiest way, particularly since you have a metal intake tube, is to simply drill/tap the tube and screw in the nozzle.
No risk of anything going into the engine and I have yet to have any issues with nozzles falling out, even when done in plastic, just careful not to strip it obviously.
You could weld a bung onto the pipe but this is overkill IMO and can mess up the atomization if it is too deep as the spray could hit the sides of the bung instead of going into the intake air stream. Could always add one later should you manage to have the nozzle fall out.
Then you just need to figure out what fluid you want to inject and how much of it. 100% meth worked best by far for me but you need access to bulk pure meth for this.
I would start out with a nozzle in the 5-7gph range with washer fluid and see how things go. I ended up at 14gph and wanting about ~16-18gph after turning off the 7th injection on pure methanol. Too much water though will cause you to bog.
Thanks TA. On the hunt for a kit now. I really want that VC-50 controller from snow. It'll work perfect with my gauge setup replacing the boost gauge. $549 shipped for the kit isn't bad either.
04-06-2012, 04:59 PM
lol
