Marc

There's a lot of people using the Taurus fan and probably just as many thinking about doing this mod so I thought I'd share my experiences.

For the most part, especially the first summer, this mod worked very well for me.

I initially installed this fan because I suffered some serious frame damage up front which caused my stock fan to explode also destroying my shroud and a few other things. With the frame damage there wasn't enough clearance for a new stock fan and shroud so I went with the Taurus fan.

The fan worked perfect until this summer when on 2 occasions I towed a 1000lb trailer and then a 2000lb trailer on the highway. These were only 70 degree days and I wasn't using my A/C. Well on both occasions my temp guage went up to the right of the middle point. As most 4runner owners know the guage almost seems stuck just to the left of centre. On one occasion when coming to a stop the guage actually went far to the right before the fan kicked in and brought it down.

Because I had to tow a 3000 lb trailer on the highway and it was 82 degrees out and I wanted to use my A/C and my frame is fixed - I installed a new factory fan and shroud.

Man, that thing moves some serious air.

Yea it's loud on startup and sometimes leaving stop signs. And it might take some power but my temp guage was rock solid just to the left of center.

I'm thinking that while an electic fan was doing a good job of keeping my rad cool it wasn't providing enough cool air for the block (that's just a theory)

I might at some point try using an electric fan that fits well inside the shroud and see what happens.

Anyway, for what its worth thats my long (sorry) story about my taurus fan.

Tacoma Dude

Had you considered installing a switch to manually turn on the fan?
I remember reading that in a write-up somewhere (I think it was Robinhood's?)

Sorry to hear about your problems with the fan. I wonder if anyone else has had similar problems?

Marc

It wasn't a big deal and I was happy with the fan when I wasn't pulling a trailer.
The fan was running automatically when the engine was hot.

Morphine

So is this an invite to start bidding on the Taurus fan? I'd be more than happy to help get it off your hands. Just an idea you know. I have been one of the many pondering about doing this mod.

-=Morphine=-

Marc

Thanks for the offer but I'm in Canada. Shipping would cost more than it's worth.
Plus, I tend to never get rid of stuff "just in case".

You can get a Hayden fan that would fit in the stock shroud for less than 100.00.

Robinhood150

Funny, I'm thinking of doing the same with my taurus fan. I'm still up in the air about whether it's the cause of my occasional overheating in extreme conditions. I don't think it is but the peace of mind of knowing the fan is always on is reassuring.

4RUNR

The Taurus is 1/2hp fan on maximum, at any engine RPM. The stock clutch fan eats up at least 1hp at the crank at low RPMs, and many more HP if you spin the engine faster, as proponents of the electric proved on a dyno. Guess which fan moves more air, the 1/2hp or 5hp?

deathrunner

The 5hp???

4RUNR

Lucky guess!

deathrunner

Is the Flex-a-lite more powerful than the Taurus fan? I assume it must be if they are asking that much $$$ for it.

Has anyone had problems with the flex-a-lites?

I'll stick with the mechanical fan. It's ahrd to mess up.

ChickenLover

The flexalite is crap. I don't have experience with the taurus fan, but I am 99% sure it moves more air than the flexalite.


https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f105/flexalite-black-magic-electric-fan-flx-165-a-63155/

4RUNR

1hp = 746 watts. So if the fan draws 30amps @ 13.8v = 414 watts. So roughly 1/2 hp. Looking at Flex-a-lite website the most powerful I found 180 X-Treme draws 18amps, so it's 1/4 hp fan. As far as efficiency they are more or less equal.

Marc P

The Taurus fan has been great for me. My engine is cooler when wheeling, the shroud fits almost exactly (was able to use 2 stock mounting spots), cost me about $60.00 and about 3 hours. My a/c is colder too.

I added a mechanical temp guage, and I never get over 220 degees at the back of the block. I cut an area at the bottom hoping to pull some of the heat from the trans cooler I have installed behind my skidplate. Not sure if it works, but can't hurt.

Just in case, I carry my stock fan in my "spare" box. I figure I could cut the fan out and use the stock fan in the taurus shroud.

This is the fan I used--some have a different shroud..

jns

I had to install my Taurus fan because my "bearing plate" went out($950. for the part alone). I have it wired on the high setting but had to install a 140amp Cadillac alternator or the battery would keep dying. With the A/C on, it will keep the temp needle in place in 115 degree heat in Vegas. It is relatively flat here and I'm not towing a trailer,though.

mastacox

Not that I'm a walking informercial or anything, but the DC Controls variable controller is a much more efiicient option for the fan... The thing works great for me, and I've been driving around in 105 degree heat for the past week (just put the fan in a little while ago.) I did , however, have to upgrade my alternator to the 100 amp MR2 one.

jns

I'm using a fan thermostat from AutoZone that works pretty good and also wired the fan to come on when the A/C is on. Does that DC Controls unit vary the fan speed or does it just turn the fan on and off depending on temperature?

sandiego

My .02 is the Taurus fan needs a tight seal. If you have a large area to induce turbulence, then the fan won't provide a good heat transfer through the radiator. The better the seal with the electric fan the more you can pull the heat from the radiator, thus cooling your engine. This is equivalent to running your stock fan without a shroud.

I am in the process of converting my 3.4L to the Taurus fan. The fan is very impressive flow wise, and I have a good seal from the fan to the radiator. I can feel the fan sucking air through the radiator and AC condenser. If you feel air flowing through the condenser by putting your hand through the grill, you probably have a good enough seal.

Right now I have a faulty DC controller I am hoping to get replaced. Brian seems cool about things like this so it should be no problem.

Once again my .02

runethechamp

Just a theoretical question here regarding this mod. Wouldn't this mod steal more power since the alternator would have to charge the battery more to drive the fan. Engine-alternator-battery-fan should be a lot less efficient than engine-fan, or am I missing something?

sandiego

The DC control does vary the fan speed. There are some excellent write ups on this controller in this forum and TTORA. If your interested you should check it out.

The nice thing about the DC controller is the controller does not operate all or nothing. The control will put out what is required to keep the fan turning at a variable speed proportionate to the temp sensor.

But yes that is not very efficient. The solid fan also takes power to turn. This is why the controller is popular with theses type of swaps.

I also recommend a good seal between the E-fan and the radiator. I think this is a lot of the overheating when towing. Do you guys who went back to the stock fan think this is accurate?

Marc P

I have been running mine for about a year now with no problems. I have a cheepo adjustable controller set at 185 degrees. I used an infared temp guage to get the setting right.

I do not tow with my truck, but when wheeling in the desert or climbing mountains there is zero overheating.