Synthetic oils
07-06-2003, 09:16 PM
#1
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Synthetic oils
Hi all,
I'm planning to switch my tranny, t-case and diff oils to synthetic. Are there any special things(flush) to do prior to putting synthetic in? I got 60K miles on my rig. Thanks all.
George
I'm planning to switch my tranny, t-case and diff oils to synthetic. Are there any special things(flush) to do prior to putting synthetic in? I got 60K miles on my rig. Thanks all.
George
07-07-2003, 03:23 AM
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I think this is the 3rd time this question's come up this past week 
Don't worry about it though... I think I was the 2nd person to ask it. It seems that the synthetics manuf. suggest the flush but its not necessary. The only drawback is that the synthetic gets dirty faster and is possibly in need of change sooner than planned.
That's what the answer seems to be anyway. I could be wrong, anybody else?
Don't worry about it though... I think I was the 2nd person to ask it. It seems that the synthetics manuf. suggest the flush but its not necessary. The only drawback is that the synthetic gets dirty faster and is possibly in need of change sooner than planned.
That's what the answer seems to be anyway. I could be wrong, anybody else?
07-07-2003, 05:14 AM
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I just switched to synthetics in my 99' Tacoma. I chose the Amsoil Series 2000(75W90) because it' s a lifetime fill. Supposedly you never have to refill your diff's or transfercase again and it's compatible with other gear lubes so you shouldn't need to flush.
07-07-2003, 06:54 AM
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Under normal circumstances the only time a "flush" is necessary is in an Auto trans fluid replacement. Everything else is drain and fill.
Like the others said, go with Amsoil. I did, and it's awesome.
Like the others said, go with Amsoil. I did, and it's awesome.
07-07-2003, 07:11 AM
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I was wondering about synthetics myself. One mechanic I talked to says to never run full synthetic oils in any motor that is not new, always use synthetic blends for this. Another I asked said it didn't matter, that the full synthetics may make gaskets weep because they clean very well while lubricating, but that was the only problem. Neither could back up their statements with reasons, and I got the impression they were just repeating what they had heard elsewhere. I know the positive points to running synthetics, but does anyone know for sure about any negatives? Too many years as a scientist makes me always look for proof in everything. Anyone have any bad first-hand stories to share?
07-07-2003, 07:18 AM
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I've made the switch to synthetic on my tranny and engine and have even benefitted from an additional 30 miles to the tank. I'm waiting for my crush gaskets to come in from the stealership. Why they have to order the gaskets, I have no idea; No gaskets in stock means none diffs can be serviced. Anyone know where to recyle all those fluids???
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07-07-2003, 08:00 AM
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Originally posted by 4runner4life
I'm waiting for my crush gaskets to come in from the stealership. Why they have to order the gaskets, I have no idea; No gaskets in stock means none diffs can be serviced.
I'm waiting for my crush gaskets to come in from the stealership. Why they have to order the gaskets, I have no idea; No gaskets in stock means none diffs can be serviced.
I would raise a stink about it, but that's just me.
07-07-2003, 12:15 PM
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STAY AWAY FROM SYNTHETICS!!!!!
But really. I'll share what I was told....Once upon a time I had a beautiful 94 RX-7...Then we had a child.....Bye bye true love.
Just kidding I did have my RX-7, and if you know about RX-7's they're rotary. And rotary engines at least those are finicky. I had this Rotary Performance shop do most my work. I asked them about running synthetics, because I figured they would know since they had like three or four drag cars. Anyway the owner of the shop and I talked about it a little, and his basic explanation was don't waste your money. He said unless your racing the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of the car, you're not going to see any noticable differences.
The way I see it is why spend the extra if you don't need it. I guess it's preference.
But really. I'll share what I was told....Once upon a time I had a beautiful 94 RX-7...Then we had a child.....Bye bye true love.
Just kidding I did have my RX-7, and if you know about RX-7's they're rotary. And rotary engines at least those are finicky. I had this Rotary Performance shop do most my work. I asked them about running synthetics, because I figured they would know since they had like three or four drag cars. Anyway the owner of the shop and I talked about it a little, and his basic explanation was don't waste your money. He said unless your racing the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of the car, you're not going to see any noticable differences.
The way I see it is why spend the extra if you don't need it. I guess it's preference.
07-07-2003, 12:23 PM
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If you replace your dino oil every 3-4000 miles you should not have any problems. Tranny and difs might be different. Everybody has an opinion of synthetics, until Toyota releases a TSB, similar to Mercedes, that states to use, or not to use synthetics, I'll stick with what has been proven for 100 yrs.
07-07-2003, 12:47 PM
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I use synthetic oil because it lasts longer and has better wear properties than conventional oil. Not only that, but the oil change interval can be increased, thus ending up just slightly more than a conventional oil change cost - over time.
I would like to see solid data that synthetic is not far superior when compared to conventional oil. You guys can do what you want, but I will continue to synthetic.
I would like to see solid data that synthetic is not far superior when compared to conventional oil. You guys can do what you want, but I will continue to synthetic.
07-07-2003, 02:00 PM
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I think you are making a good choice with going synthetic. I run it in everything everywhere.
Gear boxes are just drain and fill. The best way to do it is to always take the fill plug off first. It has nothing to do with draining it, but it is sure nice to make damn sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain the lube.
Next, get a pump. They only cost a few $ at the auto parts stores like Pep Boys or Auto Zone. The one I use is made by Sta-Lube and it can usually be found in the same area as the gear oil. Trust me it is a few $ well spent. It will pay for its self by just preventing spillage. If you use AMSOIL it screws right into the AMSOIL bottle perfectly.
If you want to read through a book that has some really top notch info on synthetic oils and lube down load The Motor Oil Bible from my site. Once you read through all the info there you will then know more about synthetic lubes then 99.9% of the so called professional mechanics out there.
http://www.GadgetOnline.com/MOB.exe
Now, if you decide you want to use the very best stuff you can get I can get you a very good hook up on AMSOIL products. You can get them at DEALER COST and buy direct from AMSOIL just like dealers do by becoming a dealer yourself or a preferred customer. Either way it only cost $10 and you will save way more then that off of your first order.
Go to my site and click the links and you are all set.
http://www.GadgetOnline.com/AMSOIL.htm
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Gear boxes are just drain and fill. The best way to do it is to always take the fill plug off first. It has nothing to do with draining it, but it is sure nice to make damn sure you can get the fill plug out before you drain the lube.
Next, get a pump. They only cost a few $ at the auto parts stores like Pep Boys or Auto Zone. The one I use is made by Sta-Lube and it can usually be found in the same area as the gear oil. Trust me it is a few $ well spent. It will pay for its self by just preventing spillage. If you use AMSOIL it screws right into the AMSOIL bottle perfectly.
If you want to read through a book that has some really top notch info on synthetic oils and lube down load The Motor Oil Bible from my site. Once you read through all the info there you will then know more about synthetic lubes then 99.9% of the so called professional mechanics out there.
http://www.GadgetOnline.com/MOB.exe
Now, if you decide you want to use the very best stuff you can get I can get you a very good hook up on AMSOIL products. You can get them at DEALER COST and buy direct from AMSOIL just like dealers do by becoming a dealer yourself or a preferred customer. Either way it only cost $10 and you will save way more then that off of your first order.
Go to my site and click the links and you are all set.
http://www.GadgetOnline.com/AMSOIL.htm
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
07-07-2003, 02:04 PM
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Originally posted by MNBOY
I was wondering about synthetics myself. One mechanic I talked to says to never run full synthetic oils in any motor that is not new, always use synthetic blends for this. Another I asked said it didn't matter, that the full synthetics may make gaskets weep because they clean very well while lubricating, but that was the only problem. Neither could back up their statements with reasons, and I got the impression they were just repeating what they had heard elsewhere. I know the positive points to running synthetics, but does anyone know for sure about any negatives? Too many years as a scientist makes me always look for proof in everything. Anyone have any bad first-hand stories to share?
I was wondering about synthetics myself. One mechanic I talked to says to never run full synthetic oils in any motor that is not new, always use synthetic blends for this. Another I asked said it didn't matter, that the full synthetics may make gaskets weep because they clean very well while lubricating, but that was the only problem. Neither could back up their statements with reasons, and I got the impression they were just repeating what they had heard elsewhere. I know the positive points to running synthetics, but does anyone know for sure about any negatives? Too many years as a scientist makes me always look for proof in everything. Anyone have any bad first-hand stories to share?
Synthetics will not cause leaks. That is just BS. Now if you have a leak now, more synthetic will leak out of it as it is more slippery, but again it will not cause a leak. It is a very old myth that just won't die.
Premium synthetics also contain better seal swell additives to help renew seals anyway.
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07-07-2003, 02:07 PM
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Originally posted by JSB
STAY AWAY FROM SYNTHETICS!!!!!
But really. I'll share what I was told....Once upon a time I had a beautiful 94 RX-7...Then we had a child.....Bye bye true love.
Just kidding I did have my RX-7, and if you know about RX-7's they're rotary. And rotary engines at least those are finicky. I had this Rotary Performance shop do most my work. I asked them about running synthetics, because I figured they would know since they had like three or four drag cars. Anyway the owner of the shop and I talked about it a little, and his basic explanation was don't waste your money. He said unless your racing the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of the car, you're not going to see any noticable differences.
The way I see it is why spend the extra if you don't need it. I guess it's preference.
STAY AWAY FROM SYNTHETICS!!!!!
But really. I'll share what I was told....Once upon a time I had a beautiful 94 RX-7...Then we had a child.....Bye bye true love.
Just kidding I did have my RX-7, and if you know about RX-7's they're rotary. And rotary engines at least those are finicky. I had this Rotary Performance shop do most my work. I asked them about running synthetics, because I figured they would know since they had like three or four drag cars. Anyway the owner of the shop and I talked about it a little, and his basic explanation was don't waste your money. He said unless your racing the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of the car, you're not going to see any noticable differences.
The way I see it is why spend the extra if you don't need it. I guess it's preference.
You advice to stay away from synthetics only applies to the rotory engine.
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www.GadgetOnline.com
07-07-2003, 02:10 PM
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Originally posted by Sac State
If you replace your dino oil every 3-4000 miles you should not have any problems. Tranny and difs might be different. Everybody has an opinion of synthetics, until Toyota releases a TSB, similar to Mercedes, that states to use, or not to use synthetics, I'll stick with what has been proven for 100 yrs.
If you replace your dino oil every 3-4000 miles you should not have any problems. Tranny and difs might be different. Everybody has an opinion of synthetics, until Toyota releases a TSB, similar to Mercedes, that states to use, or not to use synthetics, I'll stick with what has been proven for 100 yrs.
AMSOIL was the first in 1972 to have an API certified synthetic oil for motor cars.
Did you know that Toyota markets their own synthetic oil?
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07-07-2003, 03:46 PM
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Thanks all for the inputs. I did a google search for synthetic oils and is what i've found. It has a lot of info with regards to oil in general.
George
George
07-07-2003, 06:11 PM
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Gadget
AMSOIL was the first in 1972 to have an API certified synthetic oil for motor cars
Is Amsoil still API certified? I've heard differently from thebobisoilguy forum.
07-07-2003, 06:57 PM
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Re: Gadget
Originally posted by kaneman23
Is Amsoil still API certified? I've heard differently from thebobisoilguy forum.
Is Amsoil still API certified? I've heard differently from thebobisoilguy forum.
As far as buying the license for each and every single grade and line of oil, they have not done so. To buy the license so they can stick that sticker or display it on each and every grade in every line is super expensive and it really is not needed. They all exceed API standards and are certified that way.
To buy the license so they can stick that thing on the bottle costs like $200,000 or more for each and every grade and line of oil, and then if they improve the formula in any way they have to do it again. They have so many lines and grades it is just not cost effective. However a good many of the lines and grades have been licensed. You would have to go through each and every one to find which ones are and are not, but rest assured they all are "certified" to exceed the API standards.
So, AMSOIL has not gone through the expense to buy the license for each and everyone, but all exceed API certification standards. In the end some have the fancy sticker on the bottle and some don't, but to say they AMSOIL is not have API certified is very misleading. Why would someone do that? Just remind who ever is saying that AMSOIL was the very first to have a true API certified and licensed synthetic motor oil all the way back in 1972.
That is the way I understand it and I hope it made some sense to you.
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07-07-2003, 07:55 PM
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One thing that I usually do before changing any oil, be it in the engine or anywhere else is to drive around a little while and get the oil warm. It will drain more thoroughly that way.
I am trying out Amsoil in my engine right now. It's the one that is good for one year or 12,000 or 15,000 miles (I forget which) whichever comes first and change the filter every six months. It seems as though the engine starts a little easier and settles down sooner than it used to, but that could be due to the warm summer weather.
I am trying out Amsoil in my engine right now. It's the one that is good for one year or 12,000 or 15,000 miles (I forget which) whichever comes first and change the filter every six months. It seems as though the engine starts a little easier and settles down sooner than it used to, but that could be due to the warm summer weather.
