Swimmerboy2112's 1997 5 Speed Swap
03-13-2014, 04:25 AM
#1
Swimmerboy2112's 1997 5 Speed Swap
I just picked up a wrecked 96 4Runner to do a manual trans swap into my 97 4Runner.
My 97 is a Limited model with the push button transfer case, the 96 is an SR5 model with the traditional J-shift transfer case.
Here is a list of what I will need from the donor.
-Manual Transmission
-Crossmember
-Driveshafts
-Clutch Master cylinder
-Slave cylinder
-Pedal assy
-Interior parts
-ECU
Pics because we all love pics, here is the donor.
My 97 is a Limited model with the push button transfer case, the 96 is an SR5 model with the traditional J-shift transfer case.
Here is a list of what I will need from the donor.
-Manual Transmission
-Crossmember
-Driveshafts
-Clutch Master cylinder
-Slave cylinder
-Pedal assy
-Interior parts
-ECU
Pics because we all love pics, here is the donor.
03-13-2014, 04:28 AM
#4
If I can do this in 20* weather with a real feel of 11* in a garage with no lights or heat, anyone can! Took me 7 hours...
Forgot to mention I did this alone, including the lowering of the auto trans, which is MUCH HEAVIER than the 5 speed.
Some things of note, I proved the manual wrong 2x in the removal of this transmission.
1. The manual says you must remove the crossover pipe in order to remove the trans, that is simply not true. I didn't remove the crossover pipe when I took out either the auto or manual.
2. The manual says you have to remove the sway bar to take out the trans. I didn't touch it for the removal of the manual trans but for the auto trans I simply unbolted the sway bar where it bolts to the endlinks which allows it to pivot on the points where it is connected to the frame. Found that to be the easiest way.
Forgot to mention I did this alone, including the lowering of the auto trans, which is MUCH HEAVIER than the 5 speed.
Some things of note, I proved the manual wrong 2x in the removal of this transmission.
1. The manual says you must remove the crossover pipe in order to remove the trans, that is simply not true. I didn't remove the crossover pipe when I took out either the auto or manual.
2. The manual says you have to remove the sway bar to take out the trans. I didn't touch it for the removal of the manual trans but for the auto trans I simply unbolted the sway bar where it bolts to the endlinks which allows it to pivot on the points where it is connected to the frame. Found that to be the easiest way.
03-13-2014, 04:30 AM
#5
Here's my trans plug.
Looks like I have the following colors,
blue with a yellow stripe
white with a black stripe
black with a pink stripe
red with a yellow stripe
purple with a red stripe
white with a red stripe
green
black with a yellow stripe
So here's a crude drawing of the layout of the plug, the numbers I have labeled the pin are for my reference.
So this is what i've gathered, correct me if the pin location is incorrect, I'm just trying to get an idea of what I need to do.
Me
1 blue w/yellow
2 not used
3 white w/black
4 black w/red
5 red w/yellow
6 purple w/red
7 white w/red
8 green
9 not used
10 black w/yellow
Therefore I would need to connect the following;
white w/black to black w/red (pin 3 to pin 4) for clutch depress
black w/yellow to red w/yellow (pin 10 to pin 5) for clutch release
black w/yellow to white w/red (pin 10 to pin 7) for reverse switch
I hope some of this makes sense?
Looks like I have the following colors,
blue with a yellow stripe
white with a black stripe
black with a pink stripe
red with a yellow stripe
purple with a red stripe
white with a red stripe
green
black with a yellow stripe
So here's a crude drawing of the layout of the plug, the numbers I have labeled the pin are for my reference.
So this is what i've gathered, correct me if the pin location is incorrect, I'm just trying to get an idea of what I need to do.
Me
1 blue w/yellow
2 not used
3 white w/black
4 black w/red
5 red w/yellow
6 purple w/red
7 white w/red
8 green
9 not used
10 black w/yellow
Therefore I would need to connect the following;
white w/black to black w/red (pin 3 to pin 4) for clutch depress
black w/yellow to red w/yellow (pin 10 to pin 5) for clutch release
black w/yellow to white w/red (pin 10 to pin 7) for reverse switch
I hope some of this makes sense?
03-13-2014, 06:31 AM
#7
Registered User
Nice. I <3 my 5 spd 3rd gen.
Well, about 99.5% of the time. That last .5% of the time is when you're doing some very rough off roading, sometimes low range/first gear/1000 rpm is still a little fast when going over big rocks and ledges, sometimes it gets a little dicey trying to dance on all three pedals to inch over something carefully.
But the other 99.5% of the time - love it.
Well, about 99.5% of the time. That last .5% of the time is when you're doing some very rough off roading, sometimes low range/first gear/1000 rpm is still a little fast when going over big rocks and ledges, sometimes it gets a little dicey trying to dance on all three pedals to inch over something carefully.
But the other 99.5% of the time - love it.
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03-13-2014, 06:47 AM
#8
Nice. I <3 my 5 spd 3rd gen.
Well, about 99.5% of the time. That last .5% of the time is when you're doing some very rough off roading, sometimes low range/first gear/1000 rpm is still a little fast when going over big rocks and ledges, sometimes it gets a little dicey trying to dance on all three pedals to inch over something carefully.
But the other 99.5% of the time - love it.
Well, about 99.5% of the time. That last .5% of the time is when you're doing some very rough off roading, sometimes low range/first gear/1000 rpm is still a little fast when going over big rocks and ledges, sometimes it gets a little dicey trying to dance on all three pedals to inch over something carefully.
But the other 99.5% of the time - love it.
03-14-2014, 04:43 AM
#11
Yes it will be. While I had the transmission out I figured it would be a good time to do some suspension work as well. Going with a 2.5" - 3" lift, The front is already done just gotta finish up the rear.
Appreciate the kind words man!
Appreciate the kind words man!
03-19-2014, 02:10 PM
#16
Transmission is in!
All that is left to do now is the hydraulics and driveshafts.
I had to swap the 4wd shifter around because it was hitting the 5 speed shifter in 2nd/4th and reverse. No big deal just a clip and it pops out.
Before removing the A/T ECU I wanted to make sure that it would run. Fired her up, got 10 codes... Oh boy...
I got your typical shift solenoid codes and about 6 or 7 engine missfire codes. Turns out I forgot to plug in a line to the charcoal canister....whoops. Oh well, easy fix!
Reverse lights work, and the vehicle will NOT start until the clutch is depressed, just like factory.
Went to plug in the manual trans ECU, no dice, the manual trans ECU has completely different plugs than the auto trans ECU. Oh well, guess I'll just have to live with a CEL, either that or swap wiring harnesses (kicking myself now for not grabbing the harness out of the 96' parts 4Runner).
I attempted to engage 4wd by hitting the button and shifting into 4low but no lights came on the dash. I think maybe because the driveshaft is disconnected the front diff cannot activate 4x4? I'm not sure.
All that is left to do now is the hydraulics and driveshafts.
I had to swap the 4wd shifter around because it was hitting the 5 speed shifter in 2nd/4th and reverse. No big deal just a clip and it pops out.
Before removing the A/T ECU I wanted to make sure that it would run. Fired her up, got 10 codes... Oh boy...
I got your typical shift solenoid codes and about 6 or 7 engine missfire codes. Turns out I forgot to plug in a line to the charcoal canister....whoops. Oh well, easy fix!
Reverse lights work, and the vehicle will NOT start until the clutch is depressed, just like factory.
Went to plug in the manual trans ECU, no dice, the manual trans ECU has completely different plugs than the auto trans ECU. Oh well, guess I'll just have to live with a CEL, either that or swap wiring harnesses (kicking myself now for not grabbing the harness out of the 96' parts 4Runner).
I attempted to engage 4wd by hitting the button and shifting into 4low but no lights came on the dash. I think maybe because the driveshaft is disconnected the front diff cannot activate 4x4? I'm not sure.
03-19-2014, 09:29 PM
#17
Registered User
It's not because of the driveshaft. I would first verify if the 12V+ signal to the VSV control for the ADD VSV is switching sides. If not, there is some input to the 4wd ECU that is missing for the4wd ECU to activate the ADD.
Power to the 4WD module comes via the A/T engine ECU via a black with blue stripe wire to Terminal 19 of the 4wd ECU. This is also the power for the 4wd dash indicator light. So I would check T19 for 12V+ when 4wd is engaged, because I don't know if the donor manual ECU will provide this connection.
Power to the 4WD module comes via the A/T engine ECU via a black with blue stripe wire to Terminal 19 of the 4wd ECU. This is also the power for the 4wd dash indicator light. So I would check T19 for 12V+ when 4wd is engaged, because I don't know if the donor manual ECU will provide this connection.
03-19-2014, 10:53 PM
#18
It's not because of the driveshaft. I would first verify if the 12V+ signal to the VSV control for the ADD VSV is switching sides. If not, there is some input to the 4wd ECU that is missing for the4wd ECU to activate the ADD.
Power to the 4WD module comes via the A/T engine ECU via a black with blue stripe wire to Terminal 19 of the 4wd ECU. This is also the power for the 4wd dash indicator light. So I would check T19 for 12V+ when 4wd is engaged, because I don't know if the donor manual ECU will provide this connection.
Power to the 4WD module comes via the A/T engine ECU via a black with blue stripe wire to Terminal 19 of the 4wd ECU. This is also the power for the 4wd dash indicator light. So I would check T19 for 12V+ when 4wd is engaged, because I don't know if the donor manual ECU will provide this connection.
03-19-2014, 11:53 PM
#19
Registered User
Again, check the power at the VSV. If it switches sides going to 4wd, then yes. If not, then no, no, never.
