swaybar disconnects
#1
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swaybar disconnects
Guys.. I have something to run past you, I have been looking at the "RockStomper" disco's and I am just having a hard time coughing up the $75+ for them... I have an idea to make a set just like them.. But I am unsure about clearance.. Maybe if someone has these could fill me in or any input on this idea is appreciated..
K' so the rockstomper uses the swivel rod ends to keep it all quite and simple.. K' ends and pins are easy, cost's about $25.. Now my thought for the links themself... Why not use heavy gauge 3/4" square bar stock?? If you notched the ends to fit the rod ends (leaving some as not to have the "box" fully removed... Why not?? I was looking at Rockstompers design and I do not think my idea would be weaker than the bent "U" welded to the end of pipe.. (Just to note.. I am not blasting their ends.. I am just a cheap Yankee :rolleyes: ) But.. Do I have clerance at the axle shaft?? How close does the rods come to the shaft??
Any thoughts?? Just thinking outside of the box here.. Hee Hee or more like "inside the box" Got Square??
K' so the rockstomper uses the swivel rod ends to keep it all quite and simple.. K' ends and pins are easy, cost's about $25.. Now my thought for the links themself... Why not use heavy gauge 3/4" square bar stock?? If you notched the ends to fit the rod ends (leaving some as not to have the "box" fully removed... Why not?? I was looking at Rockstompers design and I do not think my idea would be weaker than the bent "U" welded to the end of pipe.. (Just to note.. I am not blasting their ends.. I am just a cheap Yankee :rolleyes: ) But.. Do I have clerance at the axle shaft?? How close does the rods come to the shaft??
Any thoughts?? Just thinking outside of the box here.. Hee Hee or more like "inside the box" Got Square??
#2
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I'm having trouble picturing what your quick disco's look right now, but you probably have seen the one that EJ made on off-road.com...If not here's an idea of a home brew for cheaper than you said it would probably cost you if you go with your design.
disco's
Well, good luck with it if you decide to try to make your own...And post some pics.
Salue
disco's
Well, good luck with it if you decide to try to make your own...And post some pics.
Salue
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You mean something like this?
Should work. There is a lot of room down there so I don't think that will be a problem. Take a look at my writeup in the tech section here, http://robinhood150.tripod.com/swaybar/ . The pictures should give some idea of clearance.
Should work. There is a lot of room down there so I don't think that will be a problem. Take a look at my writeup in the tech section here, http://robinhood150.tripod.com/swaybar/ . The pictures should give some idea of clearance.
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Actually, come to think of it, I thought the rockstompers are loud and clicky. That's why everybody wants the nuke discos. I think with the rockstomper design there is too much play in the rod ends to prevent noise. My design lets you eliminate the noise if you keep everything tight. It does slow down the disconnection process though, because you need a wrench to loosen the top nut. But they're much quicker than some jeeps discos I've seen.
Steve
Steve
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Yes that photo was what I was thinking about.. (looks kinda crappy now that I see in in real lie though..)
What do you use for bushings?? can you buy just the link bushings??
What do you use for bushings?? can you buy just the link bushings??
#6
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I have the RS discos and have been running them for around 28 k miles so far. They clicked until I lubed the heims and tightened them down, not I have no problems at all.
I am not sure quite what you are proposing Lee, but there is a lot of space down there like Steve said, let me see a picture of what you mean perhaps?
I am not sure quite what you are proposing Lee, but there is a lot of space down there like Steve said, let me see a picture of what you mean perhaps?
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The bushings are the stock ones from the original links. They happened to fit just right.
Your design is probably more practical than mine though, because the rod ends are designed to take more load in the direction you are using them. I did that cad drawing fast so it doesn't look as good as it could. When you make yours you can make them look better by rounding the corners and I'm sure you'll paint them. Besides, who cares what they look like, as long as they work.
Steve
Your design is probably more practical than mine though, because the rod ends are designed to take more load in the direction you are using them. I did that cad drawing fast so it doesn't look as good as it could. When you make yours you can make them look better by rounding the corners and I'm sure you'll paint them. Besides, who cares what they look like, as long as they work.
Steve
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