swapped 882 for TRDs. Rear end Alignment ?
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swapped 882 for TRDs. Rear end Alignment ?
I was able to bring my rig down about an inch. The 882 were too high for my taste probably because I didn't have any serious weight in the front.
driver's side before
passenger side before
I was right at 40" from ground to center wheel well running 285/75/16 mtr
TRD's
I am now at 39" running a stock front and both measurements were with OME N86SC struts. Ride is great a little firmer than with the 882 but nonetheless rides great with the comfort OME shocks. I will post some pics up tomorrow of it. I will be finishing my swap this weekend when I install the LC coils I have sitting in the garage.
Alignment, please help me out with this. I took it to NTB and this is the read out they gave me...
Do these numbers look right to you? the rear feels a little squirly but not too bad. I just wanted to know if this is about the same read outs others are getting?
driver's side before
passenger side before
I was right at 40" from ground to center wheel well running 285/75/16 mtr
TRD's
I am now at 39" running a stock front and both measurements were with OME N86SC struts. Ride is great a little firmer than with the 882 but nonetheless rides great with the comfort OME shocks. I will post some pics up tomorrow of it. I will be finishing my swap this weekend when I install the LC coils I have sitting in the garage.
Alignment, please help me out with this. I took it to NTB and this is the read out they gave me...
Do these numbers look right to you? the rear feels a little squirly but not too bad. I just wanted to know if this is about the same read outs others are getting?
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It looks like they have the machine set to Rav4 mode and not 4Runner mode - maybe that has something to do with the squirrelly feeling in the back suspension? Incorrect parameters for the camber, caster, etc. will definitely have a negative effect on handling. Make sure that the "specified ranges" are correct
Last edited by 02_Limited; 11-09-2009 at 10:34 PM.
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the set vehicle doesnt mean jack if you know what your doing, all it does is tell you if your within factory specs for that vehicle. your camber looks great, caster is fairly decent, your toe is a little too negative for my tastes, i prefer .05 at least, i usually set to .10 degrees. the problem i see is your rear thrust angle is way off, looks like the left side is kicked back which would theoretically only cause the truck to cat walk sideways down the road.
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the set vehicle doesnt mean jack if you know what your doing, all it does is tell you if your within factory specs for that vehicle. your camber looks great, caster is fairly decent, your toe is a little too negative for my tastes, i prefer .05 at least, i usually set to .10 degrees. the problem i see is your rear thrust angle is way off, looks like the left side is kicked back which would theoretically only cause the truck to cat walk sideways down the road.
I was thinking about it and when I first put my lift on a friend cut my panhard bar and welded a sleeve to it. Since then my suspension has settled 3/4 to 1 in. Could this cause problems with the thrust angle?
Last edited by E30RUNNER; 11-10-2009 at 06:33 AM.
#6
if you were getting your rav 4 lined then the rear is still in bad shape. take it back to ntb and have them do an alignment to your 4runner, unless you prefer the rav 4 specs.
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You can push the rear housing around some with the u-bolts loose. We use a port-a-power with good results. The center pin within the spring pack is a little smaller than the hole in the spring perch so you can push the right side back, remeasure and then push the left side forward if needed.
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That shop should not have charged you extra to align the rear as there are no adjustments to be made. They usually won't tell you that and just get you for another $30. If they did, demand a refund! The only adjustment that can be made is to install an adjustable pan hard bar (like the others mentioned above).
I don't see how they got before and after measurements on the rear. That printout looks like BS to me.
I don't see how they got before and after measurements on the rear. That printout looks like BS to me.
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Agreed. Since the cargo is usually people now with soccer Mom's and all, it seems softer is better.
Those rear readings don't surpise me. The slight difference between before and after are so slight that the readings were probably right on the bubble. The machine may do some rounding off too.
You definately shouldn't be charged for a 4 wheel alignment. A thrust angle alignment may be sold to ensure a straight steering wheel though. But a slightly off steering wheel doesn't wear tires and isn't actually out of alignment. Just cosmetic.
Those rear readings don't surpise me. The slight difference between before and after are so slight that the readings were probably right on the bubble. The machine may do some rounding off too.
You definately shouldn't be charged for a 4 wheel alignment. A thrust angle alignment may be sold to ensure a straight steering wheel though. But a slightly off steering wheel doesn't wear tires and isn't actually out of alignment. Just cosmetic.
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That shop should not have charged you extra to align the rear as there are no adjustments to be made. They usually won't tell you that and just get you for another $30. If they did, demand a refund! The only adjustment that can be made is to install an adjustable pan hard bar (like the others mentioned above).
I don't see how they got before and after measurements on the rear. That printout looks like BS to me.
I don't see how they got before and after measurements on the rear. That printout looks like BS to me.
My total cost for the alignment was $50 bucks and some change.
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#18
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with my tires from touching the the frame from where the swaybar end links are to the end of the tire lugs are is roughly 13.5'' thats how i checked mine
Last edited by Elton; 11-10-2009 at 12:20 PM.
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