Suggestions on 3rd Gen Upper Control Arms
#1
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Suggestions on 3rd Gen Upper Control Arms
I need your inputs (constructive please) on which upper control arm I should get:
1) Sonoran Steel
2) Total Chaos
3) ATS Racing ( havent found the site yet)
Any pros or cons would be helpful. The main reasin for the purchase is to alow 35x12.5x16 tires to fit without rubing the A arm.
Scott
1) Sonoran Steel
2) Total Chaos
3) ATS Racing ( havent found the site yet)
Any pros or cons would be helpful. The main reasin for the purchase is to alow 35x12.5x16 tires to fit without rubing the A arm.
Scott
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I would run SS shaved arms. That is me though. I think Steve is a great fabricator with a great product that is actaully used and tested by him. PLus I LOVE all Toyota parts.
There is my input
There is my input
#5
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ATS isn't around anymore as a stand-alone company, the product is now handled by Inland Truck. There's enough bad news about them that I won't bother to post a link to the site.
I run ATS (original) arms that I got for an exceptional price and I'm happy. Though with my 20/20 hindsight, I'd say that Steve's are the ones you want.
btw, there is also Camburg (http://camburg.com/tacomaP.html). I don't have an opinion on them though I've heard good things.
I run ATS (original) arms that I got for an exceptional price and I'm happy. Though with my 20/20 hindsight, I'd say that Steve's are the ones you want.
btw, there is also Camburg (http://camburg.com/tacomaP.html). I don't have an opinion on them though I've heard good things.
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I had just found them after I sent this in. I need to contact them to see if they will fit my rig. Interesting enough Steve has a good pic on his site that shows an ATS arm on top of a stock arm (Here ). Now if his shaved stock arms are "shorter" than that I will go with his do to what I need them for.
I will wait for other comments to get a larger pool first before deciding. Would be nice if anyone had Camburg arms to chime in.
Thanks Mark I appreciate it.
I will wait for other comments to get a larger pool first before deciding. Would be nice if anyone had Camburg arms to chime in.
Thanks Mark I appreciate it.
#7
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I've got camburg upper a-arms. I like em, I've had no problems with them. They work well with the Donahoe coilovers. The polyurethane bushings squeak a lot & need to be regreased often it seems, but such is life ith polyurethane bushings.
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#8
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I have the SS ones. I like that they are stock geometry, so alignment and consistency isn't an issue. Steve does a great job at a fair price. I know he doesn't make very much on these considering the time involved.
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By looking at steves pic with the ats and stock it doesn't like they are would an advantage running ats. There just as big
Last edited by 4unner4life; 12-28-2005 at 08:37 AM.
#10
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Originally Posted by 4unner4life
By looking at steves pic with the ats and stock it doesn't like they are would an advantage running ats. There just as big
Ripper (Scott)... Steve starts from stock arms, so the geometry will remain stock. What you're paying for is Steve's insane amount of time with a grinder.
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Originally Posted by midiwall
Ripper (Scott)... Steve starts from stock arms, so the geometry will remain stock. What you're paying for is Steve's insane amount of time with a grinder.
#13
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Thanks for the inputs gents, I have decided to go with SS arms. It is more cost effective for what I need it for.
I am probaly going to replace the bushings and BJ while its apart as well.
Again thanks!!
Scott
I am probaly going to replace the bushings and BJ while its apart as well.
Again thanks!!
Scott
#16
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Oh and have fun taking out the ball joints! Its super fun!
You can use a gear puller or any sort of puller big enough and torque it down with an impact wrench... Once the threads on the puller start to strip, break out your largest sledge hammer and whack it 5 times as hard as possible.
The ball joint might break loose by the 5th whack.
hehe
Its totally do-able...just give your self some extra time. It only took about 30 minutes to get both out though with two guys.
You can use a gear puller or any sort of puller big enough and torque it down with an impact wrench... Once the threads on the puller start to strip, break out your largest sledge hammer and whack it 5 times as hard as possible.
The ball joint might break loose by the 5th whack.
hehe
Its totally do-able...just give your self some extra time. It only took about 30 minutes to get both out though with two guys.
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Well now i need to go to the base and use the Hobby shop there as all my tools are packed. Hope they have the tools I need and the time. Tires are here and going on Tuesday and the SS A arms should be here tomorrow!!. Thanks again for the opinions!!!!!
#18
For the ball joints since you are going to a hobby shop most of them have hydrolic presses. This will make quick work of the BJ's and not damage them. THe Hobby shops on the San Diego bases are great and the lifts are really cheap to rent for the day. Love the benefits!
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You must be Navy! AF (well here at Seymour at least) sucks for our hobby shops. I went to install them Sat and they didn't have the tools to pull the A-arm off. So we tried the old fashioned way and used a 10 lbs sledge which didn't work either. So I am going to have them done atr a shop. I will just take the cost out on my taxes next year, along with my new tires and the cost of BJ etc....
#20
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Originally Posted by RIPPER
So we tried the old fashioned way and used a 10 lbs sledge which didn't work either. So I am going to have them done atr a shop.
Hit up a Schucks, AutoZone, Napa, etc and borrow their "ball joint puller kit". Depending on the shop, they'll probably ask for a $$$ deposit, but you'll get it back when you return it.
I got lucky and found a local privately owned Napa shop that let me borrow an awesome 3-legged puller for free. The local Schuck's wanted $150 deposit on a large 2-legged puller - and I'd been through 2 of the consumer grade ones already without much luck (a lot of twisting and _breaking_).