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Stupid POS alarm system needs total diablement

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Old 07-15-2014, 12:17 PM
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Stupid POS alarm system needs total disablement

My 2000 4runner is driving me nuts with its stupid alarm.... I am not sure if it was dealer installed, 3rd party installed, or OEM... How in H*** can I permanently disable this thing? It has a small black thing on the lower dash by my left knee and that has a red light on it and some sort of button.
Heeeeeellllp!

Last edited by dpr64; 07-15-2014 at 12:41 PM.
Old 07-15-2014, 12:38 PM
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Red face

Find out what kind you have??

Without knowing what you have it is impossible to know how to remove it.

Then get the schematic how it was installed and return back to stock.
Old 07-15-2014, 12:46 PM
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Not sure how to find out which one it is....No idea.
Old 07-15-2014, 01:13 PM
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Take it to somebody. You don't sound competent in wiring. It's not something you want to guess at.
Old 07-15-2014, 01:26 PM
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No, that's not the case... I rebuilt Jeeps, etc. as a hobby and can handle that... I just don't know what brand/version this alarm setup is and don't want to go pulling things on a whim...

Originally Posted by vasinvictor
Take it to somebody. You don't sound competent in wiring. It's not something you want to guess at.
Attached Thumbnails Stupid POS alarm system needs total diablement-img_2221-large-.jpg   Stupid POS alarm system needs total diablement-img_2222-large-.jpg  
Old 07-15-2014, 01:35 PM
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Well then don't pull them on a whim. Get out your test light and start seeing where they run to. See where you have power and where you have grounds. You'll probably have some tied into the park lights and horn possibly. You'll have a constant 12v source that will be fused somewhere, perhaps an inline glass fuse. It might be under a "add a fuse" in the fuse box. You'll have a switched power. You might have a wire that grounds out the starter trigger wire. You could have glass breakage sensors somewhere, but they don't necessarily have to be removed. The button you are talking about is a valet switch that allows the alarm to be disabled. It could be wired into different functions too, but this is the most common use. You just have to meticulously go through it. It shouldn't be that hard. It's definitely aftermarket.
Old 07-15-2014, 01:37 PM
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I'll bet any alarm shop could remove it in 30 minutes or less.
Old 07-15-2014, 01:39 PM
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Red face

Is there not any name or model number on that box ?/

Is there another box up under the dash some place??

Something has to tell you what brand and model.

If not your in the do I cut the red wire or blue??

If it was me I would all ready have a copy of the EWD find where the alarm is interfaced in the stock harness and return it to stock.

It is some after market not factory or dealer installed.
Old 07-15-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Is there not any name or model number on that box ?/

Is there another box up under the dash some place??
There will be another black box with a harness and a bunch of wires coming out up under the dash somewhere. The box that's shown in just the valet switch and light. There may or may not be a brand stamped on it. I think they cheap Bulldog alarms I've done don't have much of any marking on them.
Old 07-15-2014, 01:54 PM
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Yah, I was hoping that it was some common dealer add-on that is well known... Guess I have to probe a bit and do some digging...
Old 07-16-2014, 02:21 PM
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Okay, it was a Kaar or Karr system...Once I popped the knee panel off it took about 10 minutes to remove. All is well now except for the stupid power locks. I want to make them all manual and do away with all the clicking and clacking baloney that works part time/some of the time...
Old 07-16-2014, 06:59 PM
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Assuming your 2000 and my 1999 are the same--they usually are: There is a plug on the rear of the relay panel in the fuse box by driver's knee. It is on the left side, third one down from the top of four--it has 13 pins. At Pin 7 there is a blue wire with white stripe (3.4L V6) or a blue wire with yellow stripe (4 cyl). Cut that and you will kill the ground to all FIVE actuators.

That is the only way I can see that won't kill something else.

Big problem. You will have to leave your liftgate permanently locked or unlocked depending on its state when you cut the wire. I see no way around this without doing some major rewiring of the liftgate..

Somewhere there is a DIY by a guy who would sleep in his truck.

Maybe you can MacGuyver a manual connection to the lock on the inside of the liftgate, and then you could open it by lowering the rear window. It might be easier to just fix it.

Last edited by TheDurk; 07-16-2014 at 07:08 PM.
Old 07-17-2014, 09:17 AM
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Can you get me a pic of that before I go cutting? It would help...
Thanks..
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