shell1223

Please help!

I am having an on going issue with my 99 4Runner. I have checked a number of forums but can't see to find the answer.

My issue:
Alignment is perfect, drives straight. When braking, the steering wheel pulls to the left (not the car!) Car stays straight. When braking at freeway speeds, the steering wheel pulls so hard to the left that over steer and I drift into other lanes.

Parts that have been since replaced:

- Calipers (both sides, replaced more than once)
- Pads, rotors
- New brake lines, and completely flushed
- inner and outer tie rods
- upper and lower ball joints
- control arm bushings


After tie rods, ball joints, and control arm bushing was replaced, the problem was completely gone for 2 months. then the issue slowly came back.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

rworegon

Have you checked the steering rack bushings? Its a bit hard to see how bad bushings would create a pull, but possibly.....

Air pressure in tires equal?

Something loose in the engine bay putting pressure on the steering column shaft link?

Is there excessive play in the steering when you are sitting at a stop?

shell1223

Tire pressure is equal. I have even changed tires and zero effect.

I have not checked the steering rack bushings, I will give them a look. I will check the area of the steering column.
thanks!

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Did you personally do the brake lines? If you had them flushed or changed, then it's simple- there's air in one of the lines. I'll bet it the side opposite of the side it's pulling to. One brake is grabbing, the other is not. You need to get a helper and bleed the brakes. Or, you can gravity bleed them by yourself pretty easily.

Jomoka

Could also be something amiss in the ABS valve body, either not letting fluid through, or allowing pressure to drain back off. It's a 4 circuit system, so each wheel has it's own valve.

I normally wouldn't expect much trouble out of that component, but you seem to have swapped all the most likely suspects - calipers with sticky pistons, pads that are mismatched from side to side, rotors with different finishes/wear, rubber flex lines that are internally swollen shut, alignment issues, etc.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Just thought of another thing. You could have a stuck rear drum. Or a badly adjusted rear drum that's grabbing hard. When's the last time you've inspected them? I'm a 2nd gen guy, so I'm hoping 3rd gens have rear drums :-)

shell1223

Thank you for all the ideas!
I did not do the brake lines, but I have a very reliable shop that did. And all four valves let out even pressure.

Also, in reference to your other comment, good call! This was the last thing inspected. My back left drum was slightly tighter than the right, but was adjusted and still no difference.

The shop is now currently replacing the rack and pinion main bushing with polyurethane. Fingers crossed!

Thanks again for your suggestions.

shell1223

Thank you for the suggestions. The ABS valves have been checked, and all are letting out even pressure. Done a few panic brake tests, and ABS works perfect.

Currently replacing rack and pinion bushing... fingers crossed.

newbrewer1

Any luck on figuring this out? I installed the Sonoran Steel lift and did the Tundra brake swap on my 2000 4runner. It now has the same problem. completed multiple alignments, replaced calipers twice swapped pads and rotors; swapped tires and rims. Pressure bled the brakes and replaced brake fluid. don't think it is a brake issue since the truck does not pull only the steering wheel jerks to the left. The ABS engages if I have both sides connected but if I disconnect either side no issues.
Thanks,

papabear1126

What happened with this thread? This is an important thread. I am going through this same ordeal of changing all these things and still have the issue.
Has anyone found the answer/s?
Please post, THANKS!

newbrewer1

After almost two years of chasing this problem including replacing everything twice, including the steering rack, and multiple frontend alignments from PepBoys and NTB. It was the Lower Control Arm Bushings.

I replaced the LCAs with brand new after market from AA when I originally installed the Sonoran kit. When I pulled the arms off a couple weeks ago the bushings were shot. I have no idea what would have caused that other than bad quality aftermarket parts.

I replaced the Lower Control Arm on the side the steering wheel was pulling to. -In my case it was the left driver side. I ordered new OEM LCAs from one of the online Toyota dealers. This solved my problem. The difference in the rubber was amazing. The truck drives great and straight as an arrow. Absolutely zero pull now. It is not the easiest of things to do but I hope this helps everyone.

squirrel 99

Your solution is appreciated. This makes it another vote to get expensive OEM parts on many things, like suspensions.. Aftermarket parts continue to get crappier. No savings in the big picture.

Jomoka

My wife had the same experience with afermarket LCA bushings. Put in a new set, which went to crap in short order. Replaced with OEM, they've been fine since. Well worth whatever more it costs to only do it once a decade or two vs. every year.