aowRS

I intend to replace my steering rack and outer tie rods on Saturday and wanted to check if there were any hints or pointers that I should be aware of.

I installed polyurethane rack bushings last year, but obviously did not separate the tie rods from the knuckles nor did I disturb the fluid lines. I did buy a quality pickle fork set and hope this is sufficient to pop the outers loose. As for the fluid lines, I presume I'll have access to these once I pull the rack to the rear slightly.

Thanks for any hints that you may have. This is one of those DIY jobs that could go amazingly smooth, or end up with a hammer sticking out of the windshield.....

Andreas

98LimitedCustomized

I just did the poly steering bushings last weekend and did undo the outer tie rod. The pickle fork I had wouldn't budge it. I used a 6" 3 jaw puller to seperate it. Still have my 4Runner in my shop cause the 3 jaw did not work to reconnect it. I think a 2 jaw would. So, if I was you I would buy a 3 jaw puller that can be reconfigured to 2. They can be had at most parts stores, don't pay more than $30.

This is what I'm using to reconnect mine, I borrowed one like it from O'Reilly auto parts, I know Autozone loans them too...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

Gerdo

Been there, done it TWICE. My first replacement rack had a bad bushing end/seal.

Set your wheels straight

Set your steering wheel straight (should be the same thing)

Tie off the steering wheel so it won't spin. (If the wheel is spun when the coupler is off, you will tear out your airbag wires, BAD)

Try to get a rough measurement from TieRod ends. Also get measurements from the rod end to rack end (both sides)

Remove the lock bolts on the steering shaft coupler and slide the coupler up on the shaft.

Unbolt the rack.

Let the rack hang down to access the PS lines.

Remove the PS lines. (do not round off the fittings, use a line wrench, I had to use ViceGrips, even the line wrenches wanted to round off)

Let the PS fluid just drain.

Remove rod ends and rack.

Put your Poly mounts into the new rack (easier out of the car)

Make sure that the rack is centered, it should be centered from the mfgr. Here is the scarry part. With the rack still out of the car, mark the steering shaft on the rack. Without scarring the shaft, turn the shaft CW (with pliers or ViceGrips) counting revs. Rotate back the same revs to center. Now turn the shaft CCW, counting revs. Both should match.

Reinstall everything.

Try to get your measuerments close.

Recouple the steering shaft to the rack.

Refill the PS pump with PF fluid, not ATF.

Start engine, pump may whine. Slowly crank the steering wheel lock to lock, more whining, it will stop whining. (keep checking fluid level, engine off)(may foam, it will stop foaming when air is out of system)

Drive around the block and to a parking lot. Driving in a straight line, Is your steering wheel Straight? If not you can slip the coupler up and turn the wheel a tooth and reatach. If you get it close the alignment will fix the rest. Check and count revs of the steering wheel, lock to lock. Also check that the wheels are going lock to lock (look under at the wheel stops)

Get an alignment.

This is also a good time to replace anything up front (shocks, springs, etc)

Edit: My rod ends were also a bear to remove. I beat them with a pickle fork, beat on the threaded end (with nut on, had to cut off because of mushrooming) heated with a torch.

aowRS

Awesome info - thank you!

Gerdo,
I thought the pump uses Dexron II/III ATF. Or so my reservoir cap states.



Andreas

Gerdo

I don't think so. I will have to check my manual tomorrow.

aowRS

Gerdo,
I just did a quick search using "steering fluid". The threads all point to Dexron II/III being the correct fluid - and that regular PS fluid can actually do harm to the system.

I guess I'll need to locate a hard-core two/three jaw puller tomorrow!

Andreas

Gerdo

I stand corrected. Dexron II/III is the correct fluid. My Haynes manual, Toyota Manual and the PS cap all say Dexron II/III. I was thinking of a honda that I used to own.

aowRS

Gerdo,
My rack came in today. Unfortunately they did not check to see that the rack actually came with the outer tie rods - so I paid for a complete rack, and both outer tie rods Of course I'll return the extra pieces but it's frustrating when you clearly ask someone what you're getting. FWIW, I purchased a new Toyota rack from Toyota of Grapevine.

In your write-up, you mention moving the coupler in order to tweak the wheel position if necessary. Do I not even mess with the 'rag joint' bolts when removing the old rack?

Thanks in advance!

Andreas

Gerdo

What is the "Rag Joint bolts"? What is the "Rag Joint" May be a better question?

You will also have to unbolt the swaybar and swing it out of the way.

aowRS

Gerdo,
Sway bar came out yesterday.

The rag joint is the round coupler that joins the steering shaft with shaft coming out of the rack.

Andreas

MTL_4runner

Was it actually a new rack or just a remanufactured one from Toyota?
How much was it?

I ask beacuse most of the time dealerships only do remanned because it's cheaper for the customer. Most of the time the remanned stuff is only on items like steering racks and radiators where a rebuild makes more sense than buying new from the factory.

Gerdo

Rag Joint, that is what I've been calling the coupler. FYI

mpavolka

My rack is worn too. I have heard though that Toyota uses Aluminum sleeves and MOOG uses steel. Anybody know if there is any truth to that?

aowRS

New factory part ~$700. I only want to do this once

Andreas

aowRS

"Dr. Zivago" mentioned this a long time ago. I've tried contacting him to confirm this and never heard back.

Andreas

aowRS

I did the work today - took me from 10 am until almost 9 tonight. What a TFPITA! A little bit of rust on things like the steering coupler splines made for some frustrating work.

I did get everything back together properly and believe the alignment is actually pretty close to where it was. I take it in Tuesday for a proper alignment.

Rather than gear pullers or ball joint pullers, I used a Lisle pickle fork set and was able to pop the outers loose with a few determined swings of the 5 lb hammer.

Result? The steering actually feels completely different. Where before every road irregularity would come through to the steering wheel, it actually feels solid and quiet now. The thumps and looseness of before are gone. I did install another set of poly rack mounts while everything was apart. Anyway, I'me very pleased with the outcome, as I had visions of this DIY turning into a disaster! For reference, I installed a new, complete Toyota rack (rack & outer tie rods).



Andreas

Ironmike4x4

Dang I didn't catch this thread until now, but you will want to make sure the boots are the same length as the ones on the vehicle by measuring the ends and setting them the same. I cannot explain any better without actually being there. I did a R&P replacement at work twice because the toe was too far off to be aligned. Came to find out you'll want to make sure they are the same length on the ends as what came off and you will be close enough to have it aligned.

ebelen1

Andreas, I read your thread awhile back on how the bushings helped. Now this thread w/ replacement of the steering rack.

How do you know that your steering is bad except that you don't feel every little bump in the road? On the highway, I feel bumps but I'm not sure if it's just the tires.

I have a '99 and yours is a year newer. Is there a timeframe when the steering starts taking a crap?

Thanks.

aowRS

Mike,
My method was to center the steering wheel (with the truck on four jack stands), tie the wheel off securely to the A-pillar grab handles and then measure the distance between the rear steering stops and the end link mount area. I did this with a metal ruler for both sides to ensure consistency.

After removing the old rack, I placed it on the floor and staightened the outer tie rods. Then I used a 90* angle and made marks on the floor. Using these marks, I was able to adjust the new rack and outer tie rods to the same general length, with equal threads on both sides. Then I partially re-installed the rack and used the exposed splined shaft to gently adjust it side-to-side until the ball joints met up with the steering knuckles. I re-installed the coupler, the hydraulic lines and snugged the rack back into place. Then I took my initial measurements and slightly adjusted the outer tire rods until I had the same distances again. After finishing the rest of the job, the steering wheel was straight and the truck drove great. I must have done something right

The job was far more difficult than this simple write-up suggests.

Andreas

aowRS

Edwin,
I've noticed more and more vagueness to the steering feel, especially while centered. On a windy day, I found myself constantly making corrections to keep the truck centered. I know some of this may be tire-related (new 265/75REVOS), but the front end has also been making clunking and knocking sounds while going over off-camber road surfaces. Since I'm extremely aware of every little quirk on my cars, this issue started really irritating me. When the shop had difficulty aligning the truck a few months ago, I knew the entire rack was ready for replacement.

Oddly, the truck has never been beat off road, has not been sent airborne over curbs, or had any other hard hits. I've owned it since new and have driven it 124,000 miles in almost 6 years. Things wear out. Some sooner than others.

Andreas